Best method to cover foam background?

[wodesorel]

The empty 65 gallon Hex is calling to me, and I'd like to get started on it soon. The only thing that is holding me back is deciding what kind of material to use for the background. It'll be eggcrate for structural support and spray foam over that. I have a ton of elm bark set aside and that will be used on most of the straight areas and there will be pockets for live plants. However, I'm really having a hard time figuring out what to use to use as a base cover to naturalize the foam.

The tank is for a native tree frog and will be kept in my critter room, so no real worries about high humidity, running water or heating.

When I made the current 15 gallon hex, I used peat moss and concrete binder, and it cracked like crazy when it dried. So I patched that with peat moss and Titebond III, and that cracked! Those cracks were then patched with silicon and peat moss and doesn't look that great. The tank was usable at that point, the worst looking areas I was able to wedge in elm bark to cover, and the frog needed a tank to move into so I let it be even though I'm not thrilled with it. From a distance it's not noticeable, but up close (ie, staring at the frog or while feeding) the cracks are obvious. I had even let the spray foam dry for a week first to try and prevent any problems.

With the size of the new build I want it to come out looking as close to perfect as possible without having to continually patch it. Any advice on how to get a crack-free background this time? I've looked at almost all the options out there, but they've mainly been used with high humidity or water features, which I think prevents the background from drying and cracking in the first place.

[Mentat]

Should be able to either glue bark to glass with silicone glue (no egg crate required) or attach it to the egg crate and then fill in gaps with a bit of expanding foam. Let it dry, then make an oatmeal like slurry of Titebond III and shredded coco fiber and coat foam with a few "painted" on layers. Let it dry between layers and do not lay a thick one to hurry job up. It should work OK that way .

[wodesorel]

Is it best to use dry or moist cocofiber?

There will be lots of thick horizontal branches running from side to side, which is why the egg crate is in the plans for support. I don't trust silicone to hold them up by itself, and if I can find a way to make them removable it would be even better!

[Mentat]

If mixing with Titebond III would use it dry (have not tried wet to see if will work). EcoEarth does come in a loose form dry bag, or mix a brick and let dry out. To make branches removable can use hot glue to adhere small plastic covered (to prevent oxidation and glass damage) magnets to branches and hold them in place with another magnet outside enclosure .

[MatthewM1]

You can use moist eco earth with tite bond, it just takes a bit longer to dry after applying it

Sent from my RM-915_nam_usa_228 using Tapatalk

[Blubberstix77]

Could this be the one and only wodesorel from HCA?