1. Size of enclosure
10 gallon but picked up a 5 gallon today at lunch
2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences
jus Oscar
3. Humidity
not 100% sure on that. when I got home from work it was about 65
60-80 is a good range for the humidity in the tank, but you want to be 100% sure on that. Make sure you get a digital thermometer/hygrometer. Petsmart has good digital combo meters for about 15 dollars.
4. Temperature
the analog was at 88 and the digital in the substrate was 107
Whoa! Way to hot here. These frogs burrow to cool off, if the substrate is that hot then as Squarejelly said you're cooking your frog. Move the under tank heater to the side of the tank, above the substrate level. The temp ranges you want to aim for are 80-82 during the day and 78-80 at night. To help dial in the temps you can leave the light off or leave the UTH off and see where it puts you. I'd also recommend getting a thermostat to hook your heating devices up to, then it will automatically turn them off/turn them on to keep the temps in the proper range. A Zoomed Hygrotherm Amazon.com: Zoo Med HygroTherm Humidity and Temperature Controller: Pet Supplies is a good option.
5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
distilled for the misting and spring for soaking
Distilled is ok for misting provided you don't spray your frog directly (it can leech nutrients out of your frog.) Spring water is not necessarily safe for frogs just because it's safe for humans. Use dechlorinated tap water for the soaking dish and hydrating the substrate. You can use freshwater aquarium dechlorinator found at most petstores or use reptisafe.
6. Materials used for substrate
eco earth
7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials.
- How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv.
one half log, one vine and 2 small bushes
8. Main food source
crickets
Make sure your crickets are properly gut loaded 24 hours prior to feeding. Gut loaded means the crickets have been fed nutritious foods like carrots, potato, cheerios. You can also use prepared cricket feeds like Fluker's.
9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often)
reptocal and rpashy is what use once a week
A good dusting schedule can be found here http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...schedules.html
10. Lighting
zoo med 60w day and 60w red night
11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
heat pad under the right side tank
one digital for the substrate
12. When is the last time he/she ate
last statuary
13. Have you found poop lately
big poop last sundry and a few drops here and there
14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
15. How old is the frog
juvy
How long SVL (snout to vent)?
16. How long have you owned him/her
week
17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred
bresd
18. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats
super woms
Superworms and mealworms both have hard chitinous exoskeletons which are hard for the frogs to digest. These indigestible pieces can become lodged in their gastrointestinal tracts and cause impaction. An occasional treat of a superworm might be ok, since they have less in the way of exoskeleton than mealworms but since you've only had the frog a week and don't know how prone to impaction it may be I would recommend against it.
19. How often the frog is handled
when ceaning
20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area
You seem to be on the right track and once you fix these issues you'll be doing well. The main issues I see are the heat and the spring water. You should make those your priorities. You also want to get rid of the analog thermometer/hygrometers and replace them with digital to ensure accurate readings.
Also again make sure you've read the care sheet that both Carlos and I provided links to.
Good luck and remember we always like to see pictures!![]()





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