Is this normal frog behavior?

[KerkeringJ]

Thanks! You're sure he won't get sick from eating the whole thing? They're a good 2-3x his body size. And I do have a thermometer, but it's analog. In the center of the tank (away from the heat lamp), it says 80 degrees. I have rubber tongs and a digital thermometer on the way actually, they should get here tomorrow. It's about 85 right under the lamp last I checked.

[Louis Charles Bruckner]

You should be ok,
Don't worry if it can't eat it all he will spit it out.
My frog ate this entire horn worm.

[KerkeringJ]

It didn't work. I dangled worms in front of him for an hour, he kept his mouth glued shut. He is absolutely terrified of me now though. Any other tips? He's definitely losing weight. He took a bite at the worm (I think) but didn't hold onto it. He's also scratching a lot with his hind legs.

[Hypnotic]

Scratching with his hind legs means he's probably a little scared and trying to burrow away from you. I had one that absolutely refused nightcrawlers, so I waited a while and tryed again when he was older, and it went alot easyer then.
Frogs can be really stubborn, don't give up, but theres no shame in postponing a little.

[Louis Charles Bruckner]

Like I said it will take time.
Only try it 15min or so at a time at night.
Remember these frogs are also nocturnal.

Have you ever use a red wrigglier if so that might be an issue since those excrete a foul tasting mucus when
injured.
Just be patient and keep trying 15 min at each night or early am.
If the frog gets stressed it is time to quit.
You don't want the frog to associate the tongs with a negative experience.

Also start at the edge of the frogs mouth and go to the center I have heard that this will trigger a strike.

[Mentat]

Is your frog still in the 10 gallon tank? Such a large enclosure can stress out a small Pacman and it won't feed while stressed. First thing I recommend is to get an ExoTerra Medium Breeder Box or similar; cover 3 sides with aquarium background or dark paper, and just add a water dish, shredded coco substrate mixed with dechlorinated tap, and a small silk plant. Place frog in it and get the whole thing inside your temperature and humidity regulated 10G tank. You can release frog into 10G once it reaches 3.5-4 in.

In regards to bottled water; there is no telling what is in there. Some companies add chemicals and other over filter it until it's safe for humans; but unsafe for frogs. It's better to get a bottle of Seachem Prime and treat your tap water with it.

Temperature inside the frog's box should be 82F with a slight drop at night. Humidity should be between 70-80%. A combo digital gauge is the best way to monitor these mandatory parameters.

Crickets should be sized same as distance between frog's eyes and gut loaded for 24-48 hours prior to feeding, with carrots, lettuce, oats, and cherios. Night crawlers can be cut from pointy end same as frog's snout to vent length. Would release couple crickets in box half hour before sunset and remove any uneaten ones the next morning. If your frog eats them can add more until it's satiated and stops feeding. For the worms just drop them in front of frog's mouth. Once frog calms down you can try tong feeding; but be aware that some of them won't eat from tongs.

Hope this helps and you can get frog eating soon. Keep us informed of progress and good luck !

[KerkeringJ]

Thanks! I'll try the smaller enclosure/smaller nightcrawlers. I also turned down the temp a bit for now, because he was slightly buried on the coldest side of the tank when I woke up. Also, I've noticed these little white spots, are they normal? You can see them on the sides. He's starting to look really skinny now, lots of folds where there weren't before.

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