Hey guys! I have a question that I've been trying to figure out without bugging everyone, but the time has come for help. I'm using a 100 watt light to keep temp up and it's works great, but the top 1/4" or so is very dry and crumbling. The lower 1 3/4 - 2" seems moist judging by color and moisture bubbles built up. I'm still waiting on my thermometer/hygrometer..should be here today or tomorrow. My little guy is eating great and he sure seems happy, but this is bothering me. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
Forgot to add that I am misting the tank 3-4 times a day also
Mike,
I switched to using a Ceramic heater for the heat source and regular bulbs (produce little to no heat) for my terrarium. The Cerramic heater provides heat more akin to the sun than a bulb (It is a radiant heat). This has helped my substrate stay moist longer without flash drying the surface.
For the regular bulbs you will want to use the type of bulb proper for your little guy. If he requires UVB or UVA. I use Exo Terra Reti-Glo Compact Fluorescent Full Spectrum 26 watt x2 for my terrarium as a reference.
Don't know if this will help or not.
Oh and I'll add I have a 18x18x24 terrarium and a 100w ceramic hearted easily keeps it at 78F
Careful with the misting. If your top is drying out that fast you could end up creating a swamp in the lower sections of the tank. I did that to my last terrarium and it is ZERO fun to clean up. I would randomly stick your finger down into the substrate to check for standing water also.
What type of frog do you have?
Maybe you should consider creating a drainage layer so you can siphon any excess water out of the bottom of the tank.
If you know how to do that already I apologize, but here is all you need to do
Buy some Leca (expanded clay balls. Also called Hydroballs) Joshsfrogs.com sales their version of it called "Falsebottom" Put the Leca on the bottom of the terrarium (1.5 - 2 or 3 inches thick) then cover the top with a screen or weed block (anything that will let water pass but keep the soil from falling down into the Leca). Cover with Substrate.
You can also set this all up with a hose down in the bottom permanently that runs out the top of the enclosure so you can syphon off excess water as needed. The Leca will keep your soil from getting swamped as long as the water level in the bottom never fills up to touch the dirt. It will also absorb some of the water and then release it back out and help keep the humidity of your terrarium up.
As stated above, try a ceramic heat emitter. Hook it into a thermostat (like a zoomed hygrotherm) and it will turn the CHE on/off as needed which will help with the substrate drying out. You could also spray the substrate directly to moisten it (if you aren't already) but keep an eye on the humidity. With a CHE I end up misting once or twice a day to keep humidity at the right level (usually in the morning and before bed). What temps are you keeping your frog at during the day and night? You said you are waiting on a thermometer and hygrometer but are you checking with another method (IR temp gun, etc)?
Also since these frogs are nocturnal you do not need any sort of lighting. Just make sure your frog is getting the proper amount of vitamins/minerals and 12 hour cycle of light/dark.
Paul, bedore, thank you very much! The bottom of the tank is definitely not swampy, that was a big concern of mine. He is a green pac man frog and I've had him a little over a week now. The ceramic heater sounds like a great option, but where do they go inside the tank exactly. He is in a 10 gal with coco. So, I technically don't need this light in his "day" period? I was wrong, it is a 75 watt exo terra "intense basking spot" light. If I don't need that light then I could eliminate a lot of trouble by just using the 50 watt "infared basking spot" light I have to keep temps up. Would this be adequate? To read temps I am using a small hand held digital IR thermometer for the time being. There is a lot of light in the area he is in during his day time. Thanks!!!
They go above the tank like a light. I bought an Exo Terra Porcelain Clamp Lamp (small) and an Exo terra lamp holder bracket (both available on Amazon).
I cut the wire casing on the lamp clam cage so the ceramic heater heater can sit closer to the tank top without exposing the CHE itself. I think positioned the Bracket so that it would hold the lap as close to the top as possible.
I like the bracket because it secures the heat source in place and you won't accidentally knock it over or have it fall off.
I also use the ZooMed HydroTherm to control the heat. It will turn the heat course on and off through out the day to maintain the desired temp. I may also be wrong, but the CEH will create a natural hot spot right below it in a 20G tank and then the rest of the tank will be heated to the desired setting. I would measure the temps of the enclosure on the opposite side of the tank from the heat sours to ensure the whole area is within a comfortable range.
I'll take a picture of my heater setup when I get home for lunch today and post it up for you.
As my name implies, I live in the desert and have the same issue. My solution has been to just add a little dechlorinated water and mix up the substrate during my daily water bowl cleanings.
The moisture level you want to aim for is when you squeeze the substrate together in your fist it clumps together without dripping any extra water out.
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No problem! They certainly do not need a basking spot/light. That would go a long way in explaining why the substrate is so dry on top. A ceramic heat emitter is a type of ceramic bulb that produces no light but infrared heat. You would screw it into a fixture and you would set the fixture on top (like you did with the basking light) or you can suspend it above the tank using a lamp stand. If you have a screen/wire top you can set it right on the screen so long as it's stable. Be sure to use a fixture that has a ceramic socket and is made to be used with a CHE as they do get hot. Make sure there is no way it can get knocked over and obviously don't place it too close to anything flammable (like curtains etc). I have mine on a lamp bracket/pole/stand so I don't have to worry. You could start with a 60W CHE and if that is not enough upgrade to a 100W.
If there is plenty of natural light then you are fine. Just make sure that the enclosure is not right next to a window as the sunlight could amplify through the window and into the enclosure and make things really hot. 12 hours of natural light is what is generally required.
Wow! You guys are fast! A pic of your setup would help immensely! Desertheat, thankfully I did squeeze all the excess water out of the substrate when making up his habitat. Maybe I'm just not misting enough when I mist. Is there a rule of thumb of how much you mist? I'm on the fence about whether or not to remove the spot light. I don't want to do him any harm, you know? But on the other hand, it seems a bit much, but I'm way too inexperienced to make such a call. If the ambient light in the room is fairly bright then maybe the heat lamp might be enough...? So confused lol...thanks guys!
I should add that my setup is for Red Eyed tree frogs and not a Pacman, but the same general principles apply.
Pacman frogs are nocturnal and do not require any type of light other than light in room. A basking type bulb will create heat and drying within it's beam and is counterproductive in a your frog enclosure. This is a ceramic heat emitter: Fluker's ceramic emitter l Heat source for reptiles l Reptile heating; and this is a dome with built in dimmer for it: Repta-Clamp Lamp Ceramic w/ Dimmer Switch. Those are made by Fluker's; but there are other brands with similar products too.
You can try removing the basking bulb and use aluminum foil to block off most of the screen top, to reduce heat and humidity loss. Then if needed, can increase the wattage of your heat source or use a combo of two sources (i.e. a ceramic heat emitter and a heat pad) to reach your heating goals. Good luck!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
Right on, thanks for that Paul! Carlos, I just turned the light off and measured the temperature when I did and it was at 81.7 I currently do not have aluminum foil, so I'll keep a close eye on everything and see how it goes. If the temps drop I assume I can add the heat lamp and that should be fine..? Also, (this just hit me and will sound stupid) but I e been keeping the light on during the day. Was I completely messing up his sleep time? Man I feel dumb..edit-THANK YOU for the links!
Last edited by MikeIsGreen; January 10th, 2014 at 11:54 AM. Reason: Forgot thanks for links
I failed. Went home for lunch and my order of crickets and fruit flies arrived so I sorted those out and then the 2 baby frogs got delivered so I sorted them out and then I realized i was 10 mins late getting back to work. I'll have to get a pic tonight.
Haha! Thats fine man..no worries! Sounds like a pretty cool lunch to me! I turned off the basking light and turned on the infared light and current substrate level temp (where he is nooked up) is at 81.6 and half inch above that is 82.4 which to me seems good, but what say you guys? Thanks!
again not being a packman expert I would say it sounds good to me.. I would let one of the other experts chime in before you take me word for it lol.
Every time I take my frog out to feed or to spot clean or for any reason.
I use this time to add treated water to the substate to get it to the level of clumping when compressed and not sopping wet.
With doing that and the amount of cover I have on the top screen it keeps the humidity levels around 70-80%
and if drops below 70% the Hygrotherm kicks in the zoomed reptifogger but that is a rare thing.
I normally don't have to refill the bottle for month to more.
Cool...thanks Louis! I havent removed him for a feeding yet, but may start! I got my zoo med thermometer/hygrometer just a little but ago and just like I thought my humidity is lowI just misted and it's only at 40% was higher but dropped. What could I cover part of the screen with since I don't have aluminum foil? I do have plastic wrap and I did see the reptifogger is cheaper atm on amazon than petsmart. Is this a route I should go? Thanks guys!
I figured your humidity was quite low judging by the look of the dried substrate. You want to aim for 70-80% humidity. I tried housing my Pacman in a 10g enclosure but I just could not get the humidity above 40% no matter how much I misted. On my end it's due to the forced hot air heating system and the fact that it's been running a lot lately and it really dries the air out. Not sure what your room humidity is, but take that into account. You can cover part of the enclosure with aluminum foil or plexiglass. You can also try plastic wrap. If you find that you cannot sustain the proper humidity then consider trying a smaller enclosure. I currently keep mine in an Exo-Terra 12x12x12 and have the top covered with aluminum foil with a cutout for the heat emitter. I mist in the morning and evening and that holds levels fine.
You can buy the reptifogger and try and fine tune it to the proper humidity, but I would personally buy the Zoomed Hygrotherm and hook your heating device and the reptifogger (should you get it) into this device as it will regulate the proper temps and humidity automatically. Good luck!
I am gonna call petsmart in a minute and get a price quote on the items you just mentioned and go there tomorrow and purchase them. I knew from the start that a metal crate lid was not going to hold humidity, but the guy at petsmart said it would along with misting. Thank you for this! Oh and by heat source I assume you mean the heat lamp? Still trying to grasp all this..sorry
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