Basic Frog First Aid

[Paul Rust]

EMERGENCY DIAGNOSIS AND TREATMENT OF AMPHIBIAN DISEASES

© Paul Rust - NorthWest Amphibian Rescue

A very special thank you to Bruce Maclean, DVM

THE SYMPTOMS LISTED IN THIS ARTICLE COULD BE INDICATORS OF A MUCH WORSE UNDERLYING PROBLEM. THE TREATMENTS ARE INTENDED FOR EMERGENCY USE TO STABILIZE YOUR ANIMAL UNTIL IT CAN BE SEEN BY AN AMPHIBIAN MEDICAL SPECIALIST. THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO REPLACE VETERINARY CARE.

Before treating any frog, you need to be sure that it is sick. Therefore you should keep a close eye on it so you can intervene if necessary. Placing the animal in quarantine should keep any contagious diseases from spreading to the rest of the population.
One of the problems commonly found among frogs is stress. It is caused by prolonged captivity in a small area or a vivarium with too many frogs in it. Messy vivariums and too much exposure to humans can also cause stress.
Symptoms: animals won't eat and/or lay on their backs while twitching (often occurs with young animals). If you buy a new frog, place it in a small dish with some tepid water and a teaspoon of honey. Place the frog in this solution for 30 minutes. Then quarantine the frog for 30 days.

A FEW NOTES ON MEDICATIONS USED IN THIS GUIDE

Panacur (Febendazole) is a great medicine to have on hand. Purchase it as Panacur-C in the 4 gram packets. It is safe to use and some people recommend treating your collection routinely with it once every 1-2 weeks to keep worms under control. Personally I treat my frogs for 3 days on the first of every month. It is very easy to use; you just dust the food with it.

Flagyl (Metronidazole) the oral liquid also a good one to have on hand as it is useful for a broad range of problems, from parasites to appetite to bacterial problems.

Another good one to have around is a topical cream (Neosporin), as you could quickly apply it to any frog with a bump or scratch from shipping (or anything else) and head off a potentially serious infection.

Another item I use commonly is an Electrolyte solution (Pedialyte), for new frogs or ones that seem dehydrated or listless, a few minutes in a bath of this can bring them around.

As far as liquid de-wormers go, I would not get one of these unless recommended after a fecal exam, as they kill all the worms at once. A bunch of dead worms inside the frog can lead to death from Septic Shock.

LymnoZyme is a pro-biotic that can be added to the water for aquatic species. It is a very safe treatment that competes for the nutrients (waste material) that pathogens require to survive and will reduce the bacterial count of Aeromonas, Pseudomonas or pathogens to such low levels that they will not be a threat to the health of your frogs. It is effective against both Gram negative and Gram positive bacteria.

Symptoms:
Disease:
Treatment:

Doesn't eat, loses weight, is listless, has lumps or other irregularities on the skin.
Bacterial infections.
Treat with ENROFLOXACIN (BAYTRIL) Put 8 drops in 125ml Tepid water. Put a lid on the bowl and make sure the frogs’ head stays above the water. Duration: 15 min. each day for 6 days.

Listless, often found in water or hiding, watery droppings.
Parasites in intestines, “Protozoa”
Parasites are always present in the intestines, but they will cause problems when the animal is weak. Treat with METRONIDAZOLE (FLAGYL)
1 drop in 8 drops of tepid water. Place one drop on the back of frog. Duration: Each day for 6 days. Treatment for the vivarium: 1ml per 5 liters of water; use this to spray the vivarium.

Does eat, loses weight, listless.
Parasites in intestines, “Worms”
Treat with FENBENDAZOLE (PANACUR) 25mg/kg of bodyweight. Dissolve and drop on frogs’ back once a day for at least 10 days. Or dust the food items for 3 consecutive days.

Pink area surrounding cloaca, bulging cloaca.
Infections in intestines.
Treat with SALT. Grind into a powder and sprinkle on food.

Acts spasmodic, is active but loses weight, dry skin.
Worms.
Treat with ERGAMISOL(LEVAMISOLE) 1 drop in 3 drops of tepid water, pour water over frog's back, then place and leave one drop on its back. Duration: 7 days.

Listless and doesn't eat.
Hypothermal.
Same as treatment for stress. Duration: 7 days.

Flesh-colored spots on skin, toes or nose.
Wounds, scrapes, cuts.
SULFANILAMIDE POWDER Antibiotic. Apply to wound several times per day.

Skinny front legs (young frogs).
Spindly Leg Syndrome.
No treatment. Euthanasia is the only option. TRICAINE METHANESULFONATE (FINQUEL) or (MS-222) Mix 2X the recommended dosage with an equal amount of SODIUM BICARBONATE Dissolve in an equal amount of water and inject into the abdomen.

Fungus on skin.
Red Leg, Pseudomonas, Hydrophila.
Use the water area of a quarantine vivarium and add 0.6% SALT by volume. Make sure that the frog gets in the water often. Duration 6 weeks (refresh water often). Use a solution of 0.2% MERBROMIN (MERCUROCHROME)on areas of the frog with fungus, rinse after several minutes.

PAUL’S FROG FIRST AID KIT
HAVING THESE ITEMS ON HAND SHOULD GET YOU OUT OF MOST EMERGENCY SITUATIONS.

SALT
HONEY
NEOSPORIN
PEDIALYTE
LYMNOZYME
PANACUR-C (FENBENDAZOLE)
FLAGYL (METRONIDAZOLE)
BAYTRIL (ENROFLOXACIN)
MERCUROCHROME (MERBROMIN)
SULFA (SULFANILAMIDE POWDER)
ERGAMISOL (LEVAMISOLE)
TRICAINE METHANESULFONATE (MS-222) (FINQUEL)
SODIUM BICARBONATE (BAKING SODA)

[abacabb]

When I google panacur-C, I get a list of canine medication. Is that ok to use? Or is there a special frog one?

[Paul Rust]

When I google panacur-C, I get a list of canine medication. Is that ok to use? Or is there a special frog one?

That's the stuff.

[abacabb]

What would be the proper dose for an adult red eye tree frog?

[Paul Rust]

What would be the proper dose for an adult red eye tree frog?

Does eat, loses weight, listless.
Parasites in intestines, “Worms”
Treat with FENBENDAZOLE (PANACUR) 25mg/kg of bodyweight. Dissolve and drop on frogs’ back once a day for at least 10 days. Or dust the food items for 3 consecutive days.

[abacabb]

One more thing, what exactly is "tepid water"?

[doganie]

I got these tadpoles a couple weeks ago, but am not sure what they are. One of them got really bloated and can only float upside down. The pictures of the single tadpole are of the bloated one, the last picture is of two of the other regular ones. I have six, the rest of them aren't bloated at all. I don't have a proper fish tank for them, but I change their water every other day with sink water that I set out two days in advance so the chlorine evaporates. I also put a rock in the water for them to cling on to or climb up on when their legs get bigger. I separated the sick one and didn't give it any food. Is there anything I can do to help it?

[Paul Rust]

There is little you can do for tadpoles beyond giving them fresh water and food. I see you are feeding them fish flakes, that's good. They don't look like Chorus Frogs, do you know what they are?

[doganie]

I don't know what they're called, but I roughly know what they look like full grown. I got them from a pond near Seattle, Washington, and saw a couple full grown frogs there, most likely the same type. I don't really know how to adequately describe it, do you know of any websites that I could go to to help identify it? It was a pretty average frog in my opinion, not very colorful, dark shades with some freckles. Maybe about an inch or two long. When I found them, the pond was practically covered with all the tadpoles, and there was a lot of green algae. Thats all I can remember right now. The sick tadpole isn't doing so great though, it's barely moving anymore.

[Paul Rust]

If it was in seattle try looking up Rana.aurora, or Pseudacris.regilla.Both are very common here on the west side.

[doganie]

From what I remember, the Pseudacris regilla fits the description better, but I don't remember it having the trademark stripe on it. I might have just overlooked it though.
Update on the sick tadpole, I think it died, It's not moving anymore and I can't see any inner-body movement, but luckily there is no sign of bloating in any of the other tadpoles.

[daziladi]

Great article and resource! *applause*

[Paul Rust]

Great article and resource! *applause*

Thank you Robin, I hope it helped you.

[ISW Avalon]

I've recently purchased two young red eyed tree frogs from an expo. They were both very healthy upon purchase. But after about about one of them developed a discolored spot on its back. I thought i may have been a bruise at first, but it seemed to grow into what could possibly be a fungal or bacterial infection. It does not seem to effect his normal activity. It does not seem to be getting worse, but it is not getting better either. Any insight on how to treat it would be greatly appreciated.

[Paul Rust]

Hello and welcome.
To me they look like bruises from jumping around in a small container or rough handled during transit. I would keep an eye on it and as long as he is eating he should be fine. New frogs are also under a lot of stress, try to keep your distance and let him settle in in a quiet location. He may not eat for a week or so either. I think he looks healthy.

[froggylady2c4u]

My white's tree frog has pinched his leg. I'm not sure if it was broken or not. He is pulling back on the leg now, but the fingers are not being used at all. I'm wanting to know if this will heal and if he will use the fingers. He is hiding under the moss, not eating(that I know of), I have not heard him bark at all. I just got him as a Christmas present from my daughter. He has plenty of water, cage is 65-75 degrees at all times, has night and day lamps, endless supply of live crickets, and a friend too. I'm worried about my new baby. I love him and don't want anything bad to happen to him.

[Paul Rust]

First, remove whatever the condition was that caused the injury. It needs to be seen by a vet familiar with amphibians to answer your questions.

[froggylady2c4u]

Paul, I can't remove the condition that caused the injury. It was the cage door. It got caught in confusion as we got a call to get out to my vehicle which was broken into. In the confusion to rush out to the vehicle, 5 of us, humans, put him in the cage and none of us realized his arm was in the door. We came in 10 minutes later, and saw his arm, and I cried. My new baby was hurt!, Not to mention, my froggy vehicle had to be towed away too! Bad Christmas Eve all around! Now, I'm just worried about my Bruiser, the van is in the shop, I want Bruiser to be better.

[Paul Rust]

My white's tree frog has pinched his leg. I'm not sure if it was broken or not. He is pulling back on the leg now, but the fingers are not being used at all. I'm wanting to know if this will heal and if he will use the fingers. He is hiding under the moss, not eating(that I know of), I have not heard him bark at all. I just got him as a Christmas present from my daughter. He has plenty of water, cage is 65-75 degrees at all times, has night and day lamps, endless supply of live crickets, and a friend too. I'm worried about my new baby. I love him and don't want anything bad to happen to him.

First, remove whatever the condition was that caused the injury. It needs to be seen by a vet familiar with amphibians to answer your questions.

Paul, I can't remove the condition that caused the injury. It was the cage door. It got caught in confusion as we got a call to get out to my vehicle which was broken into. In the confusion to rush out to the vehicle, 5 of us, humans, put him in the cage and none of us realized his arm was in the door. We came in 10 minutes later, and saw his arm, and I cried. My new baby was hurt!, Not to mention, my froggy vehicle had to be towed away too! Bad Christmas Eve all around! Now, I'm just worried about my Bruiser, the van is in the shop, I want Bruiser to be better.

You obviously care about this frog so i will offer up my observations, this is merely my opinion.

Referring to another post of yours:
"I have a bug eye tree frog in the terrarium with my white's tree frog. As long as they are the same size, they are fine."

You don't know how well they are doing after only a few days together. The hiding in the moss and not eating suggest it is under a lot of stress. The combination of being handled without time to settle into it's new home, a tankmate of a different species, and the possibility of a serious injury all send up red flags for me and I believe this frog is in real trouble.

I would recommend putting the Whites in a quarantine tank for 30 days. This tank should be kept at the proper temp and humidity and a 12 hour photoperiod. Give him a good place to hide and access to fresh water. Keep him in a room where it is quiet and leave him alone for a week or so and only peek in to feed him and check on him. This should be the standard protocol for any new arrival. If you want more help and advice, post a new thread in the forum and people can try and help. Good luck.

[froggylady2c4u]

Thank you. I will do this and keep a very keen eye on Bruiser. I just hope he heals. I love all my babies and feel bad enough that he got hurt, to begin with. I'm sorry for him if putting a friend with him caused him even more stress. I will separate him. I do have enough tanks around here to do that. Thank you again for all your help. It is much appreciated.