Hello everyone! Great forum!
I am looking into possibly getting a pacman! I have a left over 10 gallon I used for fish with nothing in it. I've been interested in PACmans for a while. I currently have an empty 10 gallon I would be using so I had some questions. It has a regular fishtank lid (with light in it) would this work? Since there are not many holes I figured it would help keep humidity in but has some holes (from filter) to let air in. I would be using coconut fiber ( the stuff u mix with water, I got 3 bricks of the stuff so it shouldlast a while, how do you store the extras so it doesn't go bad? Also I would be getting some fake plants from the dollar store to provide hides. I would like to feed earthworms (don't wanna breed crickets) does anyone know how long a container would last (if I cut them in half) and would also use Pinky's (thawed out and prekilled). Also the air temp in my house is around 68 would a ugh heater work to bring temp up (using original hood on tank to trapheat) or should I get a new bulb for the tank hood? Sorry for all the questions! Love the forum!
I currently have a cresdted gecko and would love to add a fat little PAC man(separate ofcourse)
Hello! A 10 gallon should be sufficient for an adult frog. If you get a baby or juvenile though,I would recommend dividing the tank in half. Large spaces can freak out small frogs. Plexiglass sheets work well, and those can be found at most hardware stores. The tank lid would probably be okay. It depends on what kind of light is in the fixture, you would not want to fry the little thing! The coco fiber bricks tend to last a while as long as they are kept dry. It should only take one to give you a nice 2-3" layer on the bottom of the tank. Store the other ones in a dry place, maybe put them in a plastic or ziplock bag. You are going to want to do a complete substrate change every month or so. The fake plants are ok for hides, but pacmans tend to dig them up. It is your choice whether or not to use them, but from experience I can tell you they won't stay pretty for long! A half log is more sturdy, and can still provide cover. Earthworms make a great staple for pacs, and how fast you go through them depends on the size of your frog. My frog now can eat about 6 full grown night crawlers a sitting, and he is not done growing yet. As or the pinkies, I would consider them a treat, and should not be fed more than once a month. They are very fatty, and while pacmans are typically chubby, obesity can still occur and that has a host of health problems that follow. When it comes to heating, I would recommend setting up the enclosure and seeing how it holds in heat/humidity. Any pet store will offer thermometer/hygrometer to help measure this. Being as your air temp is 68F, I would use a UTH (under tank heater), but instead of stuck under the tank, put it against the back or side. Frogs tend to bury instinctively when temperatures are too high, and would actually do the opposite effect if the heat was under the tank. Any other questions about care and maintenance feel free to ask! There are also plenty of care sheets out there! Welcome to the forum, and good luck!!
Thanks for the reply! My lid has a florescent bulb but I have a spare I could use that has two small side bulbs holds a 15 or 25 watt. Maybe I could use a single bulb on one side with a low wattage heat bulb so I have more heat on one side? Should the water dish be on the warm side or the cool side? And could Misting a few times a day be OK to provide enough humidity?
I would go with the dual fixture for the heat, that is actually what I run, and it seems to be working well. My temps are about 78-80 during the day, and 73-75 at night. The water dish should be on the cool side, if the frog wants to bathe, it is usually trying to cool off among other things, (other than burrowing). And misting once or twice a day will work for maintaining humidity. Make sure not to soak the substrate though, as making it too wet or soupy can cause bacterial growth and mold.
Ok thanks so you're saying with my current fixture use both bulbs instead of just one?
Hello and welcome to FF! First thing will recommend is to read this excellent care article: Frog Forum - Pacman and Horned Frogs - Ceratophrys - Care and Breeding. Unless you get a 3.5 in. plus frog; the 10 gallon is not going to work. As Iceman mentioned, it will stress out the froglet. Options are to divide the tank or to get a small plastic keeper (ExoTerra Small Breeding Box works good) and keep frog in it. You will only need a water dish (ramped versions are best), and a small silk plant in there.
In response to your question, once you mix the substrate brick with dechlorinated water; you can place all unused substrate in a plastic bag and leave it open for a few days. It will dry up and then you can close it until needed without the risk of it getting mildew. Always mix so it's slightly damp and clumps in fist, without dripping water out. You will spot clean daily and change whole substrate around once a month.
Recommend get rid of the glass top and use a metal screen top in the 10G. You can use light fixtures (i.e. domes) and either Ceramic Heat Emitters (last longer) or Red Bulbs to provide heat. Heat pads are not too efficient when used on enclosure side and will probably require additional heat sources (i.e. lights). Depending on room temp you can probably get away with a dome (get ones with built in dimmer) and one of the lower wattage heat emitters. Then you can dial in the temperature and place the whole plastic keeper with frog inside the 10G. To prevent heat loss can cover whole screen top with aluminum foil using electric tape to attach to sides. Then place light fixture on top and draw around the perimeter with a Sharpie type marker. Finally use scissors to cut hole open; but make it one inch larger all around.
Best food are night crawlers and can get those at Walmart or local bait shop. A cup of worms (12-15) should last a long time with a baby; but adult frogs can go through one or even more weekly. For froglets can cut pieces around mouth size from the worms pointy end. When feeding insects gut load with carrots, lettuce, and cherios and size them same as the distance between frogs eyes. Remember to use supplements and this link has schedules for that: http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...schedules.html. Myself would not feed rodents to babies. If using them on larger frogs, do not go over 1 a month and do not feed a very large prey. If rodent is too large and rots inside the frogs stomach before being digested; it can kill your frog. Good luck!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
It all depends on the temperature of the tank. My room stays a bit warmer with all of the herps, so I only need one. Being as your house stays a little cooler, a couple of the 15 watts should get you there, but you HAVE to monitor it. Make sure you don't fry it, or freeze it for that matter.
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