tiger monkey legged tree frog sick

[optimalcr]

My tiger legged monkey tree frog recently has gone to a dark green color and lost all color on his underside. He is acting very weak and not climbing. He is the only frog in the tank as we have a 30 gallom tank with fire bellied toads. He eats on a regular basis and we order a crickets from fluker farms. Change his tank every 2 weeks we need major help here .

[poison]

It may be that time of the year for your fellow (brumation). Looks healthy to me. Please give a run down on his setup. Temps, humidity ect.

[optimalcr]

Temp is about 80 and he hangs out close to the light so my temp is taken up there. I came home to him completly submurged in the water bowl. I dont have humidity yet (on order from amazon) he is worrying me he seems weak. I use red pine bark chips in the bottom of the tank and fake plants. I put 3-5 crickets in cevery day and they are typically gone next day.

[flybyferns]

Sorry you are having trouble

I have never kept this species of frog.
I do understand however:

-their temp and humidity needs are a bit tricky to maintain:

Temps:
a day time temperature range between 75-82 degrees F.
-Some care sheets will say up to 84
Maintain night temperature range between 70-74 degrees F.

Humidity:
low to moderate levels of humidity – 60% max This is very important ! Therefore daily misting may not be necessary
remember they are from dryer 'natural' habitats
- so you want to have a few humidity gauges in the enclosure in different spots

Plus they need - a well ventilated enclosure

He needs UVB lighting

You will want to get rid of the substrate !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
He could possible swallow some causing an intestinal obstruction.
I would replace it with slightly dampened paper towel ( just damp enough to keep the paper towel flat)

"He is the only frog in the tank as we have a 30 gallon tank with fire bellied toads"
Sorry , I'm confused .............do you mean he is WITH the toads?
If so ( YIKES) you ABSOLUTELY have to move him- ASAP
Sorry if I don't understand what you meant by this

How long have you had him ?

Are you dusting the crickets with Calcium and vitamin powder ?
How often?

Are you using a feeder bowl ( or do you let them roam on the substrate ) ?

He is small ---- What size crickets are you feeding him ? ---they should be small

-if you are not using a feeder bowl then you really have no idea if he has eaten them

Are you de-chlorinating the water ?

The soaking in the dish thing:
could mean a few things
***** intestinal blockage ( have you found poop lately ) *****
-parasites ( detected by a fecal test / by a vet/ then treated)
-simply needed to soak
-is ill and was too weak to move and/or climb

Please read carefully, correct and/or do additional research on the proper husbandry of your little guy

Possible make an appt with a herp vet / experienced w/ this species

If you do not have one; you could email Dr Frye --- It can't hurt to have a conversation
http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-prepared.html


You could answer the ??? above and we can move forward

BTW - detailing all of this information in an email to Dr Frye will be necessary as well as the frog's length snout to vent
( tip of his nose to the very end of his body between his legs)

Handle him only when absolutely necessary, when you have to do this use powerless non-latex gloves.
If handling is necessary and gloves are not immediately available... wash and rinse your hands...make sure your skin is dampened with distilled or his de-chlorinated water.

Keep us posted
Lynn

[Mentat]

Agree with everything Lynn said! Make sure you cover all these questions and include photos of frog (recent showing problem) and it's enclosure. Thank you !

“Trouble in the Frog Enclosure”

The following information will be very helpful if provided when requesting assistance with either your frog or enclosure. To help with your questions, please utilize the below list and post the information in the proper forum area to get advice from FF members that keep the same frog. This will allow for little confusion and a faster more informed response.


1. Size of enclosure
2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences
3. Humidity
4. Temperature
5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
6. Materials used for substrate
7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials.
- How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv.
8. Main food source
9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often)
10. Lighting
11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
12. When is the last time he/she ate
13. Have you found poop lately
14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
15. How old is the frog
16. How long have you owned him/her
17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred
18. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats
19. How often the frog is handled
20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area
21. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc)


by Lynn(Flybyferns) and GrifTheGreat.

[Java]

Try organic plants (real) instead of the plastic (as all plastics contain chemicals, no matter what.) I to all real and everyone thrives much better after being sick for a period. Plus, the plants break down toxins and waste. Generally, I also suggest 2/3 substrate and 1/3 organic soil. There could be iron deficiency or lack of minerals. A lot of people don't understand that natural is always better and soil does have more nutrients than just substrate (substrate is more for humidity.)

Try ants, crickets from another place (mine all eat PetCo's- nothing special), and a few other types of insects. If that doesn't help, I wouldn't put food in the terrarium for a few days but leave plenty of water. Hope he may just have a tummy ache, bloat, backage, etc. and it will pass.

Also, is it colder there? Climate change? Is he lethargic because of weather conditions, change in something, etc?

Start keeping a diary and post on here with the results after a week or so.

[optimalcr]

Still having some slight issues with my wonderful "Thor". I have since given him a new enclosure that is a 10 gallon tank. He has a 50watt day lamp/ basking lamp. His temp maintains about 84 degrees. He still bathes in his water dish. I have been putting 3 calcium coated crickets and 2 mealworms in a feeder dish and wake up the next morning with 3 crickets and 2 meal worms. Seems he isnt eating at all. I have substrate on th bottom of his.some nights he will eat 2 of the crickets but that is like once a week. I have put him in isolation for about 8 hours. (Isolation meaning ina kritter keeper that was him two bowls of water and 20 small crickets and 10 mealworms recommended by vet) and he ate about 5 crickets and no meal worms. The vet says he needs mealworms but he will not eat them. He is the only frog in his tank and always has been by himself. I need help. My son loves this frog and he just doesnt look like he is going to make it...


also I use fake plants in his enclosure and I leave his lamp on all night... should I shut it off and get real plants?

[Java]

Do you have any pictures of his enclosure?

Also, I'm not sure where the vet gets that he should be eating mealworms.. they're not any better than crickets, honestly. My girls won't touch them and they're fine and happy. Try pinhead crickets instead of small and don't put as many in with him. It gets overwhelming and I've seen my enormous Cuban actually run away when I accidently spill a bunch in (crickets crawl all over frogs when they have the chance.) During feeding time, put them and him in a separate enclosure where there's no soil, plants, etc to get in the way.

Eating once a week actually isn't all that uncommon, though, since in the wild it's harder to find food sometimes. If he doesn't appear to be skin and bones, then he should be okay food wise.

I will say that from you picture of the enclosure you may need more climbing structures. And if you're still using plastic, I hope you're cleaning them before you put them in (cleaning as in rinsing with purified/safe water.) Leaving them under a heat lamp, plastic can actually sweat.. and I know they say they're safe for frogs but as stated in the last post- they're plastic. He's a little guy in a plastic forest. Your temperature inside should also be around 76 to 78 degrees with moderate humidity. I say go no higher than 84. If you're using a heat lamp that's lighted, make sure you have a night version as they do need to know when it's day and night (everything is way too artificial these days.)

Introduce some frog safe moss in there. Maybe some frog safe wood (I actually don't recommend cork since it's get a fungus/mold..) As for the heat, leave it on but give him plenty of chances to move away from it and hide. Frogs can overheat and the heat will make them lose bodily humidity. Might as well mist a few times a day, too. Just him mostly.

Now, you mentioned your son.. how often is he holding Thor? Treefrogs don't like to be held often or for long periods of time. Once or twice a week is okay. But, make sure hands are washed before and after and your hands are damp. Frog skin is sensitive the more exotic and smaller you go.

Keep us updated!

[optimalcr]

I hate to report that my wonderful Thor passed away last night. My son doesnt know yet but we are going to tell him. And to answer the holding question no my son never held him. I only held hin to move him from enclosure to enclosure for cleaning once a week.

the putting a bunch of crickets in with him was for isolation because he went almost 2 weeks without eating... we plan on getting another on and really want to know where to get them. We bought our last one from a private owned pet store and had been looking at him when we bought him for like 5 months.

Please if anyone has a good care sheet for them I would like it.

[StickyFrogfeet]

Josh's Frogs How-To Guides Tiger Leg Monkey Frog » Josh's Frogs How-To Guides

[Mmfh]

Red pine bark chips? Is pine anything safe for animals/amphibians?