Stress?

[elliotulysses]

You may be over thinking your approach to these frogs. They are actually quite easy to keep. The room temperature of 74F is a bit warmer than Xenopus prefer but it's not life threatening, if you could get it a few degrees lower in your home they'd probably appreciate it.

Anyways, ACF to swim around a lot, they're also very skittish. My small male is kept in a 10 gallon tank so he can grow large enough to join my big tank.. at night he swims around like a total spaz. They like to swim, they're fairly active frogs actually.

I believe these frogs are being kept in 2.5 gallons? Way too small for these guys, but I know it's a temporary home until your larger tank cycles. That being said, they probably aren't jumping for joy being in such a small tank right now.

In my opinion ACF with a good 'run away' reflex is a sign of a healthy frog. If the frog did not react to stimuli, I'd be worried. In the wild things that scare them should induce a flight instinct, it's in essence how they keep alive. Of course they shouldn't be startled often but it does happen. (My frogs freak when I close the living room door some times)

If you are using Prime don't bother with Stress Coat, they in essence do the same thing.

Also I may look into something like this Marineland Classic 4 Gallon Hidden LED Desktop Kit at PETCO as a temporary home. Should I do something like purchase this and get Seachem Stability? Or, as I am waiting to find out
Just do a water change and use the Stability.

[Mentat]

Agree with Michael; these frogs are not fragile. The transfer can be done right now. Do not add any more ammonia to 20G and wait until ammonia reads 0. Make sure that janitorial ammonia has no other cleaning ingredients on it; if so, that could be very bad.

If 20G is full of distilled water do a 50% water change with dechlorinated tap before transferring frogs. Move frogs and start using the Seachem Stability for 2 weeks. You are done .

[mpmistr]

I agree with Carols in making sure that ammonia you are using does not contain ANY chemicals besides ammonia. Be very careful on that one because if there are other chemicals in there you will be headed for trouble. Also agree on the distilled water, never use it. Use tap+SeaChem Prime. I've personally never used SeaChem Stability but I doubt it would do much harm to try it.

When you read zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and nitrate under 20ppm it is time to add the frogs. Just please please please make sure the janitorial ammonia you used is 110% free of other harmful agents because they will surely kill your frogs I cannot stress this enough!! I did a little Googlin' and it appears that janitorial ammonia is usually 10% ammonia hydroxide. I assume this should be safe but I'm not sure..

I find snails make good cycling animals. They do not produce a ton of waste so they won't cause the water to become toxic to themselves but they will add enough 'snail poop' to cycle the tank. Some cheap ghost shrimp would do the job too, again very small bioload so properly filtered they should survive the cycle (not that they are long lived anyways 1-2 years tops). I am a bit paranoid with using chemicals in my tanks. I would throw an apple snail in there once the ammonia hits zero and see how he does, or some ghost shrimp. Shrimp are a good indicator of water quality, and if they survive the frogs will just eat them anyways and enjoy the treat.

[elliotulysses]

I agree with Carols in making sure that ammonia you are using does not contain ANY chemicals besides ammonia. Be very careful on that one because if there are other chemicals in there you will be headed for trouble. Also agree on the distilled water, never use it. Use tap+SeaChem Prime. I've personally never used SeaChem Stability but I doubt it would do much harm to try it.

When you read zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and nitrate under 20ppm it is time to add the frogs. Just please please please make sure the janitorial ammonia you used is 110% free of other harmful agents because they will surely kill your frogs I cannot stress this enough!! I did a little Googlin' and it appears that janitorial ammonia is usually 10% ammonia hydroxide. I assume this should be safe but I'm not sure..

I find snails make good cycling animals. They do not produce a ton of waste so they won't cause the water to become toxic to themselves but they will add enough 'snail poop' to cycle the tank. Some cheap ghost shrimp would do the job too, again very small bioload so properly filtered they should survive the cycle (not that they are long lived anyways 1-2 years tops). I am a bit paranoid with using chemicals in my tanks. I would throw an apple snail in there once the ammonia hits zero and see how he does, or some ghost shrimp. Shrimp are a good indicator of water quality, and if they survive the frogs will just eat them anyways and enjoy the treat.

Do you think the shrimp would have to be quarantined?

The ammonia I was using was just listed as 'Clear Ammonia' Ingrediants: Ammonium Hydroxide CONTAINS NO PHOSPHERUS. So it should be fairly pure.
Unfortunately, I am having trouble getting a hold of a nitrite testing kit, save for the strips, which are not nearly as reliable.

I am seriously considering just getting a new aquarium and filter and starting a cycle with Stability.

Only I am on my fourth week of cycling and it makes me feel like I had wasted my time and money.

[elliotulysses]

Could shrimp pellets or some of this finely ground ADF food work as well as a snail at keeping the bacteria fed? The guy at the petstore said to try frozen shrimp, as in the kind people eat. I have no idea how to take that advice.

I MAY be able to get an apple snail or two or some ghost shrimp. The problem is my Nitrites seem to be way too high to really house anything.
Until then fish food/frog food? I want to get away from the chemical as well, but it was recommended on a fishless cycle (although they do say that in a pinch some food will do.

Here:
How to Do a Fishless Cycle: 9 Steps - wikiHow
The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling - Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community

Should I continue to do this advice or go with Carlos?
I personally, would like to move them, as I think space may be the biggest stressor of all.

[elliotulysses]

Agree with Michael; these frogs are not fragile. The transfer can be done right now. Do not add any more ammonia to 20G and wait until ammonia reads 0. Make sure that janitorial ammonia has no other cleaning ingredients on it; if so, that could be very bad.

If 20G is full of distilled water do a 50% water change with dechlorinated tap before transferring frogs. Move frogs and start using the Seachem Stability for 2 weeks. You are done .

I know that they are not fragile and are pretty hardy animals, but right now the ammonia is reading 0ppm from my API chart. I am just going to add some ground up fish flakes and siphon them out later.
I am going to the pet store to get my water checked out again, but unfortunately not for a few days. I hope to see if they have stability there. Sadly, the last time I went they had ammonia testing kits, nitrate testing kits, but absolutely no nitrite tests.

[mpmistr]

Order these things from Amazon, it's much cheaper than going to a local pet store (unless you have a local pet store you really want to support and carries it).

I always purchase my SeaChem products from Amazon and I can tell you for a fact the API Freshwater Master kit is almost 20 dollars cheaper on Amazon vs purchasing it at a local pet store or chain.

[elliotulysses]

Order these things from Amazon, it's much cheaper than going to a local pet store (unless you have a local pet store you really want to support and carries it).

I always purchase my SeaChem products from Amazon and I can tell you for a fact the API Freshwater Master kit is almost 20 dollars cheaper on Amazon vs purchasing it at a local pet store or chain.

That's very interesting. Unfortunately I won't have the money on my card until next Wednesday, but that gives my nitrates time to drop. However, I will have cash this Friday plus some gift cards that would enable me to get ripped off on the API master kit.

But, should I add some food to it or some ammonia? I do not want to starve the bacteria and completely halt what is going on right now.

[elliotulysses]

Agree with Michael; these frogs are not fragile. The transfer can be done right now. Do not add any more ammonia to 20G and wait until ammonia reads 0. Make sure that janitorial ammonia has no other cleaning ingredients on it; if so, that could be very bad.

If 20G is full of distilled water do a 50% water change with dechlorinated tap before transferring frogs. Move frogs and start using the Seachem Stability for 2 weeks. You are done .

As I've said, this seems like the simplest solution.
Right now my ammonia says it's at zero, while the nitrites are sky high. Should I do a bigger water change and then add them after I add the Stability?
And I only need to use the Stability for two weeks? This sounds like heaven.

Would I need to continue to use the product when I get a sponge filter to seed in bacteria for itself?