Filter Changes

[elliotulysses]

I ended up getting the whisper 10-20 gallon for my tank, intending to use it after the tank has cycled.
However, I do know that pads need to be changed and I am not sure how to do that without it needing to be cycled again to cultivate bacteria.

I think I have heard of people dipping the new one in a bucket full of water from a water change, but is that enough for it to get the bacteria?
I was thinking of maybe putting two of the pads in at once (the old and the new together). Would this work?

Also, I believe I heard somewhere to let your filter stay in the tank until it is pretty used up/torn. Is this a good idea?

[Mentat]

Hi Eli! Well, there are many arguments about how to go around with filters; so will tell you what I would do, and then when others tell you different... just don't be surprised. BTW; there are many Whisper filter models so will presume you have one with space for 2 pads and that those pads are 2 layers of bonded fiber with a small amount of carbon sandwiched in between.

The easiest for you (but costlier) is to use 2 pads and alternate changing only one at a time when flow slows down.

Second thing you can do is to extend the life of pads and prevent clogging by directing water stream from siphon hose exit into pad during a water change. I use finger pressure to squeeze tube end and get a strong flow that will flush all dirt off pad into the draining bucket.

Third thing you can do is to see if can somewhat safely, open the cartridge and replace those pads and carbon with blue bonded filter pad material. I've used those bonded pads over a year, before they fall apart in a high flow filter rinsing weekly with no problems.

Myself do not use carbon unless water it is discolored, or need to remove a medication; and then run it only for 24-48 hours and discard it. The other media I use is Seachem's Pond Matrix in a velcro sealed bag and that also get's rinsed in tank water every week.

Hope this helps a bit and good luck !

[carsona246]

Another alternative is to throw away the pads and throw some peace lilly/pothos in your filter. I got rid of filter pads a long time ago, and only use plants in my hob filters now. Plant roots are great bio media and HOB's make a handy plant holder.
When I did use pads I used to just clean them in dirty tank water to help the flow. There's really no need to switch out filter media unless its just totally destroyed and no longer has much surface area. I agree with Carlos though, I rarely utilize carbon, and then only for a day or two.

[elliotulysses]

Another alternative is to throw away the pads and throw some peace lilly/pothos in your filter. I got rid of filter pads a long time ago, and only use plants in my hob filters now. Plant roots are great bio media and HOB's make a handy plant holder.
When I did use pads I used to just clean them in dirty tank water to help the flow. There's really no need to switch out filter media unless its just totally destroyed and no longer has much surface area. I agree with Carlos though, I rarely utilize carbon, and then only for a day or two.

Could you show me with pictures what you mean by using plants instead of the pads? It sounds really neat

[elliotulysses]

Hi Eli! Well, there are many arguments about how to go around with filters; so will tell you what I would do, and then when others tell you different... just don't be surprised. BTW; there are many Whisper filter models so will presume you have one with space for 2 pads and that those pads are 2 layers of bonded fiber with a small amount of carbon sandwiched in between.

The easiest for you (but costlier) is to use 2 pads and alternate changing only one at a time when flow slows down.

Second thing you can do is to extend the life of pads and prevent clogging by directing water stream from siphon hose exit into pad during a water change. I use finger pressure to squeeze tube end and get a strong flow that will flush all dirt off pad into the draining bucket.

Third thing you can do is to see if can somewhat safely, open the cartridge and replace those pads and carbon with blue bonded filter pad material. I've used those bonded pads over a year, before they fall apart in a high flow filter rinsing weekly with no problems.

Myself do not use carbon unless water it is discolored, or need to remove a medication; and then run it only for 24-48 hours and discard it. The other media I use is Seachem's Pond Matrix in a velcro sealed bag and that also get's rinsed in tank water every week.

Hope this helps a bit and good luck !

I have the tetra whisper EX 20. I'm not sure if there is enough room to put in two filters, but I can see. Right now there is only one filter and I'm in the process of tank cycling. My ammonia dropped to 0ppm so I added more. I also added Seachem Prime, which is supposed to make the ammonia more digestible for my filter.

So from what I've gathered is that avoid replacing the filter pad entirely and rinse it off with siphoned water (presumably during a water change?).
But when I rinse the water on to the filter pad, would that be enough to season the filter? Or should I leave the old filter in the water for a few days?

Also, to be clear, your third suggestion is to open up the pad and replace it with the material you suggested? If I am getting the right idea, do I replace everything and just leave the case of the filter?

My biggest concern is that the tank is cycling now, but wouldn't having a new filter pad destroy the whole process? Apparently the filter I have now has a seperate biofilter, so maybe not?

Also what exactly is Seachem's pond matrix?

[elliotulysses]

Hi Eli! Well, there are many arguments about how to go around with filters; so will tell you what I would do, and then when others tell you different... just don't be surprised. BTW; there are many Whisper filter models so will presume you have one with space for 2 pads and that those pads are 2 layers of bonded fiber with a small amount of carbon sandwiched in between.

The easiest for you (but costlier) is to use 2 pads and alternate changing only one at a time when flow slows down.

Second thing you can do is to extend the life of pads and prevent clogging by directing water stream from siphon hose exit into pad during a water change. I use finger pressure to squeeze tube end and get a strong flow that will flush all dirt off pad into the draining bucket.

Third thing you can do is to see if can somewhat safely, open the cartridge and replace those pads and carbon with blue bonded filter pad material. I've used those bonded pads over a year, before they fall apart in a high flow filter rinsing weekly with no problems.

Myself do not use carbon unless water it is discolored, or need to remove a medication; and then run it only for 24-48 hours and discard it. The other media I use is Seachem's Pond Matrix in a velcro sealed bag and that also get's rinsed in tank water every week.

Hope this helps a bit and good luck !

Also hello! And thank you. If you know anyone that could contribute to this post, I would greatly appreciate it.

[carsona246]

This is what I've been running on my 40 breeder for about a year now. One thing to look out for is roots getting in the impeller of your filter. I haven't had any trouble with it, but I've heard other people having to buy new filters because of it.

[Mentat]

I have the tetra whisper EX 20. I'm not sure if there is enough room to put in two filters, but I can see. Right now there is only one filter and I'm in the process of tank cycling. My ammonia dropped to 0ppm so I added more. I also added Seachem Prime, which is supposed to make the ammonia more digestible for my filter.
I'm confused if we are talking about filters or filter pads. If you are cycling your tank the filter should be running. Also, you should only add Prime to dechlorinate tank water when initially filling tank or when adding new water during a water change. Adding extra Prime to water volume will sequester ammonia and nitrites and the bacteria you are trying to get going on filter will starve.

So from what I've gathered is that avoid replacing the filter pad entirely and rinse it off with siphoned water (presumably during a water change?).
Yes.

But when I rinse the water on to the filter pad, would that be enough to season the filter? Or should I leave the old filter in the water for a few days?
You rinse the old filter pad in tank water and reuse it. When replacing filter pad rinsing the new one won't have any effect. If your filter can handle two pads could "seed" the new one by running with old one for a couple of weeks.

Also, to be clear, your third suggestion is to open up the pad and replace it with the material you suggested? If I am getting the right idea, do I replace everything and just leave the case of the filter?
You would only leave the filter pad frame so can reuse again and slide into the filters pad slots. When I say filter it means the whole assembly; not the pads.

My biggest concern is that the tank is cycling now, but wouldn't having a new filter pad destroy the whole process? Apparently the filter I have now has a seperate biofilter, so maybe not?
If you have a new filter pad running there is no need to mess with it until flow slows down. You can still rinse it during every water change to increase flow and efficiency. If your filter has a separate bio-pad; then no need to worry when you replace the white poly filter pad because the bio-pad will have enough bacteria to prevent a mini-cycle.

Also what exactly is Seachem's pond matrix?
Matrix is a sintered glass media made by Seachem. It's very light and porous so it sustains huge bacterial colonies. Pond Matrix is same material but in much larger (around 2X) pebble sizes. It's what I use as bio-media in all my aquarium filters (Aqua Clears 70s and 150s).

Hope above answers your questions .

[Mentat]

This is what I've been running on my 40 breeder for about a year now. One thing to look out for is roots getting in the impeller of your filter. I haven't had any trouble with it, but I've heard other people having to buy new filters because of it.

Interesting filter use ! Had seen Aqua Clear filters converted to salt water aquarium refugiums growing Caulerpa; but this is first one I've seen growing plants in a freshwater set-up .

[elliotulysses]

This is what I've been running on my 40 breeder for about a year now. One thing to look out for is roots getting in the impeller of your filter. I haven't had any trouble with it, but I've heard other people having to buy new filters because of it.

That looks very cool! It would be interesting to get that kind of look, but I would be worried about the roots! Do you have any recommendations to kind of control that?

[elliotulysses]

The matrix looks like a good product! Also one that eliminates the use of filter pads at all? Especially if using the pond type? Would this drastically reduce the time to cycle?
I know that having a good tank is a must, but I feel so antsy to get these guys in a bigger tank. They have enough room to swim and move and hide, but I just can't wait to see how much they love their new, long tank. (:

Also, while I put the prime in to raise the water level, I think it technically unbinds or whatever after 48hours so tomorrow should give me an accurate reading for sure.

And yes! You did answer most of my questions. Thank you very much! It's a blessing to a new, panicky owner that you are on this forum!

[deranged chipmunk]

This is what I've been running on my 40 breeder for about a year now. One thing to look out for is roots getting in the impeller of your filter. I haven't had any trouble with it, but I've heard other people having to buy new filters because of it.

I have been growing plants and moss in hang on back filters for years. It works very well as a bio filter.

[deranged chipmunk]

Personally, I haven't run true filter material in any of my filters for over a decade. I keep lava rock in my filters. Canister, hang on back, what have you. It serves as an excellent bio filter and I have never had to clean out a filter because of clogging, only because I was bored and wanted something to do. I ran an fx5 filter filled to the brim on a 75 gallon heavily planted tank with fish and shrimp for 2 years before I even considered opening that sucker up.

Not that the folks here aren't knowledgable (Carlos is a wealth of knowledge), check out hydraforum.com and ask some folks over there. There is some true brilliance when it comes to aquariums/planted tanks/ect there.

[elliotulysses]

Would you say a canister filter is better than my model of filter? Or would using both be okay? I am also interested in using a sponge filter, as I have heard some good things about them?

[elliotulysses]

This is what I've been running on my 40 breeder for about a year now. One thing to look out for is roots getting in the impeller of your filter. I haven't had any trouble with it, but I've heard other people having to buy new filters because of it.

Would using plants in the back have to make me re-cycle the tank? Right now I'm hoping my cycling isn't at a halt, as I used some prime for a water change. Maybe it would be better to add some semi-dirty frog water?

[elliotulysses]

Would using plants in the back have to make me re-cycle the tank? Right now I'm hoping my cycling isn't at a halt, as I used some prime for a water change. Maybe it would be better to add some semi-dirty frog water?

Also it looks like you have a bit of a gap on the back of the filter. Have you had any issues with escape?

[deranged chipmunk]

Would you say a canister filter is better than my model of filter? Or would using both be okay? I am also interested in using a sponge filter, as I have heard some good things about them?

A canister's benefits come from easy maintenance, media storage capacity and pump strength. In my opinion, your filter is too small for a 20 gallon tank. Sponge filters work excellent, but take up a lot of room.

My honest advice? Even on a budget, your life support system, whether we are talking about a filter or heater or whatnot, is the most important item you will ever purchase for your frogs, never skimp on it. Buy the best filter you can afford. Search online and you should be able to find a decent canister filter such as a fluval 205/6 or an eheim 2213 for a decent price.

[elliotulysses]

Personally, I haven't run true filter material in any of my filters for over a decade. I keep lava rock in my filters. Canister, hang on back, what have you. It serves as an excellent bio filter and I have never had to clean out a filter because of clogging, only because I was bored and wanted something to do. I ran an fx5 filter filled to the brim on a 75 gallon heavily planted tank with fish and shrimp for 2 years before I even considered opening that sucker up.

Not that the folks here aren't knowledgable (Carlos is a wealth of knowledge), check out hydraforum.com and ask some folks over there. There is some true brilliance when it comes to aquariums/planted tanks/ect there.

Would you say a canister is a better option? Would there be any harm in running both filters until the canister becomes my primary filter. Also what do you use to filter them? What brand would you recommend for some not-quite-grown ACFs?
I will also check out these websites.

[deranged chipmunk]

Would using plants in the back have to make me re-cycle the tank? Right now I'm hoping my cycling isn't at a halt, as I used some prime for a water change. Maybe it would be better to add some semi-dirty frog water?

Adding plants to your filter would just continue the cycle. Prime will NOT stop the cycle process. Understand that Prime's main purpose is a dechlorinator. It is not used as an ammonia remover. There are separate products for that, which I recommend you stay away from.

Semi-dirty frog water will help the cycle, not because there will be any bacteria in the water, but frog waste, which will help grow more bacteria.

Remember that the biological cycle takes about six weeks to complete, and about 6 months to fully mature. There is no shortcuts to the process. So just sit back, relax and enjoy the frogs until their tank is ready.

[deranged chipmunk]

Would you say a canister is a better option? Would there be any harm in running both filters until the canister becomes my primary filter. Also what do you use to filter them? What brand would you recommend for some not-quite-grown ACFs?
I will also check out these websites.

Over 30 years of keeping tanks, I have used every sort of filter possible. I personally prefer canisters. Yes, you can run multiple filters, school of thought being is that you can never filter too much. I don't keep aquatic frogs, but have kept pretty much everything else aquatic from octopii to tetras and everything in between.

As far as brands of canisters, they are all pretty comparable, but I would stay away from that API modular canister. It is ****. Any if the others are fine, where it be eheim, fluval, marineland, ect.