General Questions for my RETF Set up

[WabbaJack]

Hello everyone!
I am new to this forum, as well as new to owning my Red Eyed Tree Frog. I named him Kiwi

I have searched the forums for the passed few weeks. I set up my Terrarium 3 weeks before obtaining my RETF. Monitored the heat and humidity before I welcomed him home!
Anyhow I have a few general questions about my set up.

Right now I have a false bottom of aquarium rocks, covered with mesh and on top I have a coco husk substrate. I made a well that sits underneath his water dish so I can suck up any excess water with a baster. I am keeping the humidity at around 60%. There is much debate over the humidity. I was told around 60-80% but reading said anything higher than 75% could cause bacteria! I have my temp during the day at about 76-80 F and at night it sits at about 72-73 F.

Question 1: What is a good humidity level for my RETF?
Question 2: Is the coco husk (plantation soil) okay for mt RETF? I've noticed he gets a little dirty. But I also read that he can accidentally eat the Sphagnum moss and that can cause impaction in his tummy.
Question 3: Is it okay to put the crickets in the terrarium with him and let him "hunt"? I plan in "gutloading" the crickets before hand. Should I be giving them a Calcium +D3 dusting as well? I was told to feed my RETF 3-5 crickets 2-3 times a week.

I have asked the lady where I obtained my frog and she just told me whatever I thought best...
She also told me if was okay to put potted plants in the terrarium with the fertilizer! Crazy!

I took the plant out of the pot, washed the roots thoroughly and the leaves, and let the plant grow outside of the terrarium in the coco husk for a few days before putting it in.
I will insert a picture of my current set up.
Thanks everyone!

[Bombina Bob]

Welcome to the forum Wappajack! You did the right thing as to set him up before getting the frog.The temps are good and the humidity could be a little higher. nothing above 75, Usually RETFs are misunderstood as being in constant humidity in the jungle. The cocoa fiber is the safest option for the little guy because if he dose swallow it, he can pass it easily, He can as you mentioned swallow the moss. The safest moss i think is is Zoomed Terrarium moss because it comes in big flat (size of hand) chunks that the frog cannot swallow. He may be a little iritated by the coco fiber at first but with regular misting of the substrate he should be fine When feeding your frog. its best to leave him in the terrarium with the crickets but make sure to feed him at night because he will be awake and the crickets can nibble on him when he's asleep You can dust with D3 every week. (good job in washing out the Pothos plant and growing it elsewhere) Your on a good start!

Bob

[Heatheranne]

Hello and welcome, WabbaJack.

Red eyed tree frogs are so beautiful . I have 6 myself.

Here is the care article to save for you.
http://www.frogforum.net/content/red...allidryas-122/

Temps are okay. I've found they eat better with day time temps of 78'F and night time temps of 75-76'F.

Humidity: best to keep it at 70-80%. Higher can cause respiratory infections, but lower can cause dehydration.

Food: always gut-load your crickets. They are not very nutritious on their own.

A great way to monitor how he's eating is to use a food bowl. A smooth-edges glass bowl of at least 2" sides can be placed in the vivarium. Place the crickets in each night and count them. Remove any uneaten crickets in the morning and gut-load the crickets for the next days feeding. I offer food daily even if they don't eat daily . They will generally eat 1-3 crickets per night and occasionally skip a day. Their food should be no larger than the distance between their eyes (cricket size). Larger crickets can cause impaction. I feed my full grown red eyes 3/4" crickets . Do not use meal worms...the chitin in their segments also may/does cause impaction.

Supplements: the general rule is to use a calcium/vitaD3 supplement every other day and a multivitamin one day a week, not on the same day.

If using Repashy multivitamin, it is formulated to be safely used daily. I switched to using Repashy plus with calcium 2x/week and calcium with vitamin D3 (Repcal) 2x/week.

Substrate: coconut fiber, which yours is, (not husk -chunks) is safe for them. Bob is right, it takes some time for them to get used to it sticking to their feet. It makes it tough to climb when it's on their suction pad feet. You can also use leaf litter over the substrate to avoid this from happening. Another thing you can do is to add a couple smooth-edged, large flat rocks. They must be boiled rinsed and then boiled for at least ten minutes to rid of any potential parasites or insects prior to using. I also bleached mine, followed by a thorough rinse, and a soak in dechlorinated water with extra, extra dechlorinator. Once dry you can even glue some rocks together with 100% silicone. If so, allow to dry for at least 3-5 days, and until the scent of the silicone is gone. I wait 7 days to be extra safe.

Plants and twigs: great job in rinsing! All plants must be thoroughly rinsed of all fertilizers and pesticides. I also do a mild (10%) bleach dip, rinse and extra dechlorinator water rinse. Rinse all soil out also and replant in ABG mix or coconut fiber. Tall growing plants are best as in nature they live in the tree canopy of the rainforest . Tall branches are nice also. This will make your new frog happy . He will sleep on the tallest leaves, often on the undersides.

Dechlorinator: use dechlorinator in all water for substrate and soaking bowl. Change water bowl water daily. You can use distilled water for misting. It does not cause water spots on your glass and looks nice, but it has no minerals in it and when used for soaks/substrates it can actual cause a loss of nutrients in the frog if he soaks in it. So, only for misting .

Great start! Enjoy your new frog! They're so beautiful and if you stay up to peak at him they can be quite comical .

P.S. when you master his care and are ready for another...they like friends . Of course, you would need to quarantine any new frog for at least 30 days prior to adding them, but...just a thought .

[Mentat]

Hello and welcome to FF! You have received good advice already but want to add couple things. For gut loading crickets recommend veggie fish flakes, carrots, lettuce and oats or cherios cereal. For dusting schedules; these are some of mine adapted to frog size/age: http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...schedules.html . Would go with glass bowl feeding method Heather recommended.

The plant will not survive on shredded coco alone. Need to add some ABG type soil where you plant them or use some mild aquarium plant fertilizer solution; myself recommend Seachem aquarium products. Good luck !

[WabbaJack]

Thanks so much for all the help everyone. I just got him on Wednesday (Oct 23). I fed him on Friday night and he didn't eat any of the crickets. Although I didn't put them in a glass bowl. Does the RETF climb into the bowl with them or do I place him in? I removed the crickets this morning since he did not eat them.
Also the humidity in my tank goes way way up at night time when I turn all the lights off. Is there any way of fixing that?

[WabbaJack]

Also he has now been sleeping since I got him. The first night I brought him home he was very active. Now since Thursday (Oct 24th) he has been sleeping in the same spot! He still hasn't eaten any crickets and I did end up getting him a feeding dish. Still nothin' I'm a little worried. He sometimes opens his eyes, so I know he's alive. I'm just real worried.

[flybyferns]

Hi,
He is still in the 'adjusting period'
Be sure he has complete darkness at night.

I would, ( while is is asleep ) in the daylight, dribble a 1:10 pedialyte and distilled water solution on his back a few times a day to keep him hydrated.
Be sure the water does not get on his face. Also dip it where his arms meet the glass so the water runs around hi body. It is very important to do this when hid id asleep ! I do this for sick (?) tree frogs. It works well and reduces having to handle them for hydration. I use a small glass dropper bottle I purchased at a health food store ( the one used for mixing aromatherapy ). Clean the bottle really well !

1:10 pedialyte and distilled water solution---------- 1 part pedi 10 parts distilled water ( both products are at the supermarket)
It you can not get to the market for a few hours simply use the de-chlorinated water.


Be sure to mist the enclosure - to keep the humidity up. The photos look dry. I understand you may have posted the photos prior to increasing the humidity Be sure to keep the temps between 76- 80 day time. It is not necessary to go above 80F.

Yes he will climb into the bowl. Make it a nic big bowl of which you could always replace down the road. I use clear glass. Keep LOTS of small crickets in his bowl. Replace the crickets daily as they are very proficient at cleaning all of the dusted supplements off themselves. (return the cricks to the bin to feed during the day) Their movement may get his attention Clean the bowl everyday in hot tap water/dry/and replace the crickets right before lights out Count the # of crickets in the bowl.. do not worry abut putting too many in. Be sue the cricks are not too big! I have adult tree frogs...I feed small cricks - only. I believe this is best to get their supplements in them, it reduces intestinal prolapse, and reduced the need for them to struggle w/ too large a feeder.

Sometimes they move and go right back to the exact spot
You could outline his body w/ a marker ( on the outside of the glass, of course) .
It might make you feel better to learn he moved a little , or at least shifted.

Cover three sides of the tank with a small blanket - it will help him feel more secure. Keep human activity limited ,if possible , in the area where the enclosure is.

What gauges are you using to monitor humidity and temps? The closed probe type are most accurate. It's really not best to those stick on spiral kind. The probe type can be easily moved around to make comparisons w/in the enclosure.

http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Digi.../dp/B00101KWVU

Amazon.com: Exo Terra Digital Hygrometer with Probe: Pet Supplies

I hope I covered all of your really good questions If not, please let us know!
Keep us posted.
Lynn

[WabbaJack]

Thanks Lynn. Very informative. I woke up last night and saw him moving around he still didn't touch the crickets though so I removed them
that picture was taken before I misted his humidity is always between 65 to 75.
I'm using the digital thermo hydro gauge like the one in the link you sent

[WabbaJack]

Breaking News!
He is awake right now. I have a clear dish full of crickets. He walked up to it earlier. Fell asleep with his face pushed up against the glass (lol) then woke up and moved away from it. I'm not sure if he knows how to get in. So with the substrate I kind of built him a little mound to get in. But he just walked away and is sitting on his plant. I know I shouldn't be handling him at all with my hands. But how should I get him in his dish to eat?

[Heatheranne]

It's good that he is exploring the bowl. Hopefully he'll be interested soon. He can get into the bowl. Might just not be ready yet.

Any changes last night?

[WabbaJack]

Still nothing! He seems very lethargic... I am still a little worried but he has been moving a bit though and doesn't look bloated or sick.
Maybe he needs a friend?
Although I'm not too sure if he is actually a 'he'. Lol.
Thanks for the concern and help everyone. This forum is amazing and so many people respond and care. It really makes me feel better.

[flybyferns]

Good Morning,
Stay with this good plan.


This is very important !
Refrain from touching him ( unless it's life and death ) and/or going into enclosure while he is awake

I would continue to drizzled de-chlorinated water on him - when he is sleeping. De-hydrated from travel / and or poor care prior to being with you is very likely.

It take months, and months, and months for them to get used having your hands near them; sometimes it never happens.

They get VERY scared They react only by trying to get away from the big monster ---thinking they are going to be eaten or squished. A startled ( uncontrolled ) jump is dangerous and can cause an injury.

He'll eat. Hang in there !

Wondering ? Is he wild caught ( WC ) or captive bred (CB) ? When a red eye tree frog is wild caught it will take MUCH longer for them to adjust! If he is wild caught ...........just imagine of what he has been through ............in his very long distance travels

When they are new to us ...their rest is extremely important to reduce stress...... boost and keep their immune system healthy. Remember don't ration his food ! He will never over-eat.

sharing: I have 4 red eyed tree frogs in an enclosure. I throw several small crickets in the bowl every night. Sometimes there are only a few missing.......sometime there is not one left in the bowl

Lynn

[WabbaJack]

I was told he was captive bred. He came on a plane from somewhere. Not too sure about the validity of the pet place suppliers which is why I'm a little worried. He didn't wake up at all last night I don't believe. He seems fine though no swelling or weird spots or bloating. Just hoping he's still trying to adjust.

[WabbaJack]

Also, to de-chlorinate the water, I've been using Prime. Seachem. Prime
I was instructed to by the place where I got Kiwi. Is this okay!? I was reading it and it said for aquariums... I'm really starting to second guess getting another frog from this place! I really hope I haven't been hurting him.

[Danish]

Any news?

[WabbaJack]

I didn't even get a notification for your post! Sorry! . My frogs are doing great now. I had to feed the sick one some medicine while the other was still quarantined from the first day I bought him. The sick froggy hasn't been sick for a while. I took them both to the vet and they got a clean bill of health. So I completely cleaned out the vivarium and put brand new substrate in and new plants and now they're living together they wake up at proper times, eat, and sit in their water. They even talk to each other most of the night.