Tank Cycling

[elliotulysses]

So when I change the filter cartridges should I soak them in the dirty water or cycle all over again?

[carsona246]

I'm not sure what kind of filter you are using. I never change my filter media, because I use ceramic rings(and plants), which are easier to clean and last longer than sponges. For cleaning a sponge, just make sure you don't clean it in chlorinated water, because that will kill the beneficial bacteria.
I would not use seeded filter media from a petstore just because you run a huge risk of getting diseases from their fish tanks.
Frog pellets will work fine, in fact anything that decomposes will make ammonia. If you have frogs in the tank, you do not need to worry about adding ammonia.
I don't like any products that claim to cycle your tank for you, just because I've never had one work for me. I've used stability and a number of other products, and have never had any luck with any of them. If your frogs fit in a 2.5 gallon, they will be fine in a 30 gallon without it being cycled. If their current tank is not cycled, then it will be preferable in my opinion. Doing water changes will be easier on the smaller tank, but you will have to do less frequent water changes on a large tank. Just keep an eye on the ammonia level, and do a waterchange whenever the ammonia hits 1 ppm.

[elliotulysses]

Alright. I actually am using some brine shrimp pellets. I am using a tetra whisper ex 20 on a 20 gallon long tank.

Soon I shall have photos up of the big tank, the holding tank and some products I have bought.

Also perhaps photos of the treatment given to Carlos, who I feared had bloat

[elliotulysses]

We are doing a (so far) fishless cycle. However, I may add a few guppies to get the process going. Especially since I've heard it does nothing truly different and I have something to check on as it cycles.

Right now I have a bunch of food at the bottom of my tank, but I have heard it will cultivate mold. So I don't feel too bad with some brave hardy soldiers.

While guppies are my choice, anything else work? As in colonies of fish that don't carry bacteria like, goldfish.

Also if they survive maybe they will be a good frog treat.

And here is the current tank I am cycling
Instagram

[carsona246]

if you are dosing ammonia or adding food there is no reason to add anything alive. Adding guppies will just put guppies through a pretty brutal process.
Any fish you buy from a petstore has a potentiality for bringing disease into the tank. I'd quarantine anything for a month prior to adding them.
Do you have the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate test kit?
If the tank the frogs are currently in is uncycled, they would probably be better off in the new tank. More water volume means less fluctuations, and more time until you need to do a waterchange.

[elliotulysses]

I don't mind doing the slight water changes. They are not so much of a hassle as I have a pretty nice siphon and bucket, along with good supply of treated water. The pet store owner recommended guppies at first, but then said just to use food during the cycling process when he saw the look of horror on my girlfriend's face. However, I wanted to kind of keep them as a good indicator of when things are going right/wrong. I am concerned about the bacteria, but the guppies are supposed to be disease free/treated so they don't carry too much. If guppies are bad, I've seen people cycle with mollies?
I do have a complete testing strip, which shows nitrate levels, but it does not have ammonia. That is something I am going to have to set up.

And are you sure they are ok an an uncycled tank? I am more concerned about doing them harm than some little guppies/mollies!

Anyways, this is the current enclosure



For some reason my images are being very small. I will try to show you them in the tank, but I don't think you'd be able to see them too well .
Each are about 1.5" max at the moment.

[elliotulysses]

if you are dosing ammonia or adding food there is no reason to add anything alive. Adding guppies will just put guppies through a pretty brutal process.
Any fish you buy from a petstore has a potentiality for bringing disease into the tank. I'd quarantine anything for a month prior to adding them.
Do you have the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate test kit?
If the tank the frogs are currently in is uncycled, they would probably be better off in the new tank. More water volume means less fluctuations, and more time until you need to do a waterchange.

I just have heard of horror stories of uncycled tanks resulting in an insane amount of tank death. I care for my little froglets quite a bit, so I am thinking off just doing the straight rotting food route and then at the end of the cycle doing a HUGE water change?

Also I have the tetra whisper ex20 filter. It's not ceramic, but it is a nice, quiet filter that doesn't seem to cause horrid currents. I also placed it near a back corner.

I also have heard of people not filtering their frogs water EVER and them lasting over 20 years! My guess is that these are pretty strong guys, but I still want to wait the full six weeks.

[elliotulysses]

However, I may end up moving them to the larger tank, as I can see that six weeks are quite a long time. Would moving them in the middle of the cycle be bad?

[elliotulysses]

Tank being cycled, before I added the food.

Attachment 61607

[carsona246]

All fish kept at petstores need to be quarantined, regardless of the species(in my opinion). The petstore will most likely claim they are disease free, but if they have been in a tank with multiple other fish, they are probably carrying something. I honestly have no idea if frogs are susceptible to fish disease's, but I'm not a huge fan of using anything alive to cycle a tank.
Test strips are not very accurate, I recommend getting a drip ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kit. They are more accurate, and you really should have an ammonia test kit. You will not be able to tell if the tank is ready for the frogs by watching the fish. You tell if the tank is ready by testing the water and making sure there is no ammonia and nitrite and less than 40 ppm's of nitrate.
There are pro's/con's of keeping your frogs in an uncycled small tank vs keeping them in your larger tank. If neither tank has been cycled then you just need to decide which is easiest for you. If you keep them in the small tank you can do multiple frequent waterchanges to keep ammonia down(once a day in that size tank), and it is easier to do a waterchange in a smaller tank. However, with a larger tank it will take more time to build up ammonia prior to needing a waterchange. You will be doing less frequent waterchanges(every other day or so) but the waterchanges will have to be larger to keep ammonia down. Regardless of which method you take, you will need a test kit to monitor how much ammonia is in either tank.
It can take up to 6 weeks to cycle a tank, so just because your frogs have been in the smaller tank does not mean it is cycled. I suspect the tank you are currently using is not cycled.

[elliotulysses]

All fish kept at petstores need to be quarantined, regardless of the species(in my opinion). The petstore will most likely claim they are disease free, but if they have been in a tank with multiple other fish, they are probably carrying something. I honestly have no idea if frogs are susceptible to fish disease's, but I'm not a huge fan of using anything alive to cycle a tank.
Test strips are not very accurate, I recommend getting a drip ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kit. They are more accurate, and you really should have an ammonia test kit. You will not be able to tell if the tank is ready for the frogs by watching the fish. You tell if the tank is ready by testing the water and making sure there is no ammonia and nitrite and less than 40 ppm's of nitrate.
There are pro's/con's of keeping your frogs in an uncycled small tank vs keeping them in your larger tank. If neither tank has been cycled then you just need to decide which is easiest for you. If you keep them in the small tank you can do multiple frequent waterchanges to keep ammonia down(once a day in that size tank), and it is easier to do a waterchange in a smaller tank. However, with a larger tank it will take more time to build up ammonia prior to needing a waterchange. You will be doing less frequent waterchanges(every other day or so) but the waterchanges will have to be larger to keep ammonia down. Regardless of which method you take, you will need a test kit to monitor how much ammonia is in either tank.
It can take up to 6 weeks to cycle a tank, so just because your frogs have been in the smaller tank does not mean it is cycled. I suspect the tank you are currently using is not cycled.

No, the smaller one is not cycled either.
I had an earlier thread where I explained that I jumped into saving these little guys from the local dollar store. It was extremely sad, but based off of quick phone knowledge it seems like there is not much to do, but I quickly learned that was not quite the case!

For now I am fine doing the cycle changes. I also plan on getting a turkey baster and sucking up any debris at the bottom. The testing liquid shouldn't be a problem either. I will just have to look for it at the store.

Now, I do about 40% water changes every day or every other day. Would you do less or more in percentage?

However,

[elliotulysses]

All fish kept at petstores need to be quarantined, regardless of the species(in my opinion). The petstore will most likely claim they are disease free, but if they have been in a tank with multiple other fish, they are probably carrying something. I honestly have no idea if frogs are susceptible to fish disease's, but I'm not a huge fan of using anything alive to cycle a tank.
Test strips are not very accurate, I recommend getting a drip ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kit. They are more accurate, and you really should have an ammonia test kit. You will not be able to tell if the tank is ready for the frogs by watching the fish. You tell if the tank is ready by testing the water and making sure there is no ammonia and nitrite and less than 40 ppm's of nitrate.
There are pro's/con's of keeping your frogs in an uncycled small tank vs keeping them in your larger tank. If neither tank has been cycled then you just need to decide which is easiest for you. If you keep them in the small tank you can do multiple frequent waterchanges to keep ammonia down(once a day in that size tank), and it is easier to do a waterchange in a smaller tank. However, with a larger tank it will take more time to build up ammonia prior to needing a waterchange. You will be doing less frequent waterchanges(every other day or so) but the waterchanges will have to be larger to keep ammonia down. Regardless of which method you take, you will need a test kit to monitor how much ammonia is in either tank.
It can take up to 6 weeks to cycle a tank, so just because your frogs have been in the smaller tank does not mean it is cycled. I suspect the tank you are currently using is not cycled.

Also, I was thinking kind of like a disposable/feeder fish. From what I've learned from some websites ( African Clawed Frog Housing and Feeding ), it seems that guppies aren't harmful for the frogs and they learn to eat them. While mine might be a little small for that, I would assume that they would keep the fish clean and free of disease.

[elliotulysses]

Tank being cycled, before I added the food.

Attachment 61607

This was the real image

[carsona246]

How much percentage wise of water you take out is going to depend on the amount of ammonia in your tank. If you have .25 ppm's of ammonia in your tank after one day, you may not need to change it at all. If you have 2 ppm's of ammonia in your tank you might want to do a 75% change. It's all dependent on how much toxin's there are in your tank. I personally prefer to keep it under 50% just so I don't have to be super careful about the temperature, because you don't want that to change quickly either. However, there are many people who do 100% waterchanges with fish(primarily breeders) and have no problems.
I love aquatic plants, and have a tank that is filtered by a water bubbler and aquatic plants. A traditional filter is not "needed" to filter a tank, just a little understanding of the nitrogen cycle and plants. Plant do absorb ammonia/nitrate, however one or two plants will not absorb everything in the tank. Most people still need a filter(of some form) to keep ammonia/nitrite to 0. A simple sponge filter will be all you probably need filtration wise, with or without plants.
Moving your frogs while cycling the tank will only be bad if you allow the ammonia/nitrite to stay at high levels. The point of fishless cycling is to allow ammonia/nitrite to stay at high levels to feed the beneficial bacteria quickly. If you keep the frogs in the tank at the same time you will need to do frequent water changes to keep ammonia below 1 ppm(some people say .5) and nitrite below 3 ppm's. This will slow down the cycle, which is why people typically fishless cycle to keep ammonia levels up.
Again, any fish that you have not raised yourself or monitored for a month, that you put into your tank is a potential host for disease. I'm not saying don't buy the fish, but I wouldn't without quarantining. I have no idea on the compatibility of ACF's and guppies.
You will only be able to tell if a tank is cycled by testing the water for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate.