I went to my dollar store, expecting just to get some cheaper cleaning products, but soon found they were selling poor little ACF in little water glasses.
Being the male-Pocahontas I am, I just had to save them from the evil pet store.
Things went smooth for awhile, until my one died of bloat. I ended up feeding them bloodworms and it looks like that was the most likely cause of the bloat. Regardless, I treated my other one with antibiotics and salts THEN rescued another one.
Right now they are in a temporary tank that is 2 gallons. I've been doing water changes nearly every day due to the lack of space. Is this excessive?
Also, when I move them into the larger tank (they are still froglets) is cycling really necessary? I have found mixed opinions about this as well as whether to use a filter or not. Keep in mind I am a very dedicated owner and usually due PH and ammonia testing daily so I would not mind the continuous water changes. From what I have heard the filters stress the frogs out, even if it is a convenience for the owner.
And has anyone tried the reptomin sinking frog tablets? They were specifically formulated for aquatic frogs, so in theory they should be good, but after the bloodworms, I've become somewhat weary.
Also does anyone else use lace or bridal cloth as a "lid" for their tank? I have (so far) found it to be an inexpensive solution to a lid.
Hello and welcome to FF! Are the frogs front extremities webbed or non-webbed? Asking to figure out if ADF or ACF.
You can feed them prepared food (aquatic frog food), thawed frozen food (bloodworms, daphnia, etc.), or live (i.e. black worms). The main thing is that you do not overfeed them since uneaten food will rapidly degrade aquarium water.
For couple 1 in. frogs would try to replace 50% daily with same temperature water. Do use a good dechlorinator like Seachem Prime to remove chloramines, heavy metals, and other bad stuff. A cycled tank is extremely beneficial to aquariums since the present bacteria colony will automatically degrade bad Ammonia to less bad Nitrites and then to almost not bad Nitrates. Those then get removed with weekly water changes.
In the case of aquatic frogs that prefer little to no water movement and could actually drown in a strong current (big powerful filter + small tank combo) you have to match filter and tank; but that is easy to do. With smaller tanks you can use sponge filters which come in various sizes. Can run those with a small air pump and just need to rinse them (in tank water you remove during water change) once a week. Cycling will take around 4 weeks; but can reduce that in half if use a product like Seachem Stability. During that time can continue to do daily water changes and do not add any chemicals or products that reduce or sequester Ammonia (i.e. Amquel).
Hope this answers your questions and good luck!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
Hey there, welcome to the forums. I know it seems like a noble thing to do, I've been there too man. I've seen a lot of ACF in bad conditions in pet stores but I never buy any because I know if I do they will just replace it with more, ill kept frogs. It's sad but what can you do?
Things went smooth for awhile, until my one died of bloat. I ended up feeding them bloodworms and it looks like that was the most likely cause of the bloat. Regardless, I treated my other one with antibiotics and salts THEN rescued another one.
Right now they are in a temporary tank that is 2 gallons. I've been doing water changes nearly every day due to the lack of space. Is this excessive?
Tell, two gallons isn't a lot. I would change the water daily. I would set up a few buckets of treated tap water (use a product like SeaChem Prime) and change the water daily from that. If the frogs are small it should be okay on a temporary basis, like you said.
A cycled tank means no ammonia or nitrite and a tolerable level of nitrate. So yeah you need a cycled tank, frog-in cycling is stressful, most would probably survive but others may not. Better to cycle rather than stress the frogs out.Also, when I move them into the larger tank (they are still froglets) is cycling really necessary? I have found mixed opinions about this as well as whether to use a filter or not. Keep in mind I am a very dedicated owner and usually due PH and ammonia testing daily so I would not mind the continuous water changes. From what I have heard the filters stress the frogs out, even if it is a convenience for the owner.
There is nothing wrong with using filters. I've used HOB and canister filters with my frogs without any harm done.
And has anyone tried the reptomin sinking frog tablets?I think sinking tablets are messy. I prefer the floating tablets, easier to clean up uneaten food. If you don't mind vacuuming after meals I say go for it though. It really depends on your substrate, if its bare bottom it will be easy to clean. If it's large pebbles or river rock, the food will wind up in the cracks and spoil. In tanks with generous filtration this is a non-issue usually but if you aren't over filtering, it could cause ammonia spikes.They were specifically formulated for aquatic frogs, so in theory they should be good, but after the bloodworms, I've become somewhat weary.
Never heard of anyone using that, but if it keeps the frogs from jumping out, as they are prone to doing I don't see the harm. I like glass lids personally, you can cut the plastic back to perfectly fit your filter and cables so there's little chance of an escape.Also does anyone else use lace or bridal cloth as a "lid" for their tank? I have (so far) found it to be an inexpensive solution to a lid.
Luckily we are getting a bigger space for them today.
Now we are using fishnet to keep the tank from getting too humid. I don't want any fungal infections.
Right now I'm using jungle right start with aloe. It allows for their coat to be healthy, I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.
We are also getting precautionary koizyme since red leg seems like a terrible way to go.
I also did try the bloodworms. I think I may have overdone it and that caused the bloat with kevin(the first albino).
I hears froglets need a once a day kind of meal. Should I maybe start going every other day?
Right now they have a large skull to hide in, a starfish decor, and smooth glass pebbles for a bottom. In the new tank I am thinking of just keeping hardy plants and decor.
Also could one manually cycle by doing the water changes as opposed to the longer process?
While ancesodotal I have heard of many experienced owners not using a filter at all and doing monthly tank cleanings and replacing the water weekly.
I use jungle right start with aloe. Also I have used Betta bowl plus. I like the jungle brand because the aloe coating is supposed to be good for their skin?
Honestly I feel that this larger space will do them good.
Also does anyone use aquarium salts? I did while treating a frog, but would a bit benefit the tank?
No.
IRT Aloe; here is my experience with it: http://www.frogforum.net/pacman-frogs/26146-aloe.html .
Would not add aquarium salts to frog tank unless used as temporary medication.
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
Hey there, to answer your questions..
There is no reason to not have a filter, you should do weekly partial water changes with or without a filter regardless. A filter will keep your water parameters more stable.
"Jungle Right Start" is just another water conditioner, there are tons and tons of products and they are for the most part fine for what they are intended to do, which is remove chloramine (which you most likely have in your tap) and chlorine. When it comes to water, I like to prefill my buckets in one week in advance and allow the gases and chloramines to more naturally dissipate from the water.. I still use SeaChem Prime though to remove heavy metals, ect. Most water conditioners have "slime coat" which basically is aloe, it benefits aquatic frogs and fish.
Lastly, no reason to add aquarium salts. ACF are salt "tolerant", yes, but there is zero benefit for adding aquarium salt 99% of the time.
Hmm I've not heard that aloe itself is bad but maybe it isn't optimal to use a product that contains it.. I've used API Stresscoat which does have aloe and I've used Prime. These days I just use Prime, I always assumed that provides "slime coat" was just an aloe additive though.
To the OP, SeaChem Prime is arguably the best water conditioner on the market. You don't need to use near as much of it as other products and it's extremely effective. Many many experienced aquarium keepers swear by it.
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