help

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1. Its 60l
2. Hes the only one
3.70-80 can drop to 40-50 while im at work
4. 25c stable
5.tap water i live in iceland and its crystal clean we drink it to
6. Moss(sorry for the english but you mean the stuff on the bottom right?)
7.ssilk plant,bark,dryed drift wood i did not prepare them
8. Meal worms i think they are called and grasshoppers
9.never
10. Lighting from the room sometimes heating lamp if it gets cold
11. Heating mats under the viv
12.few hours
13.never seen one and i dont know how they look:/
14.its on the way
15.i have no idea
16.2-3weeks
17.captive bred
18.sorry dont under stand the question
19.2times since i got him
20. Rather high but quet at night and part day
21water changed daily never cleaned yet

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Here are the pics

1. Its 60l
2. Hes the only one
3.70-80 can drop to 40-50 while im at work
4. 25c stable
5.tap water i live in iceland and its crystal clean we drink it to
6. Moss(sorry for the english but you mean the stuff on the bottom right?)
7.ssilk plant,bark,dryed drift wood i did not prepare them
8. Meal worms i think they are called and grasshoppers
9.never
10. Lighting from the room sometimes heating lamp if it gets cold
11. Heating mats under the viv
12.few hours
13.never seen one and i dont know how they look:/
14.its on the way
15.i have no idea
16.2-3weeks
17.captive bred
18.sorry dont under stand the question
19.2times since i got him
20. Rather high but quet at night and part day
21water changed daily never cleaned yet

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk now Free

[flybyferns]

Sorry ...you have a problem He is not a happy guy

Your frog will suffer from MBD ( metabolic bone disease) if the feeders are not dusted with a calcium/vit D supplement.
The symptoms are insidious ...the frog will be lethargic, eventually stop eating and jumping due to lack of the vitamin D and calcium. Sometimes one may even see the frog's jaw hang open and his legs looking really weak. If this has started ....it is curable..... supplements are an absolute necessity for a frog's survival in captivity. Plus, you have to consider how he was cared for ( ie vit D and Ca ) before you acquired him.

Water : if your water is chlorinated or treated a de-chlorinater is needed asap.

Get him off the meal worms --- they can cause an intestinal impaction ( blockage).
If you have not found any poop in the past few days, you should be suspicious of this.
Get him to soak in de-chlorinated water.

If the lighter green spots do not disappear over the next few days, I wold get him to a herp vet.
He may have parasites or an infection and will need an antibiotic and/or a topical medication to treat the spots.

Do you have a frog first aid kit ? If so, what do you have on hand ?

http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-supplies.html

Has he been up during the day?

Is he spending a lot of time in the water?

I would make him a hospital/quarantine tank.....clean out his tank, replace the substrate w/ very dampened paper towels ( de-chlorinated water ) , his water dish and cleaned plants. Try to get things as high up as possible in the tank for him to climb on.

http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html

Lynn

[Mentat]

1. Its 60l
What is frog's lenght from snout to vent (SVL)? 60L is OK for young but a bit tight for adult. Also, your tank orientation and decor applies more to a ground frog. White's need more height (minnimum 60 cm. for adult) than floor area and branches, vines, etc. to climb.

3.70-80 can drop to 40-50 while im at work
Humidity should be between 50-65%. Ventilation is more important than humidity for Whites.

4. 25c stable
White's need 30C during day with up to a 6C drop at night. This needs correction as soon as possible.

5.tap water i live in iceland and its crystal clean we drink it to
Drinking crystal clear water (even when filtered) can still contain chloramines toxic to frog. Recommend use a dechlorinator like Seachem Prime.

6. Moss(sorry for the english but you mean the stuff on the bottom right?)
See Care Article.

7.ssilk plant,bark,dryed drift wood i did not prepare them
Not preparing items can introduce pathogens to enclosure.

8. Meal worms i think they are called and grasshoppers
Meal worms are not very nutritious and can cause impaction. Grasshoppers should be sized same as distance between frogs eyes. Normally it's good to remove the hoppers rear legs before feeding.

9.never
Your frog needs supplements (both CA/D3 and vitamins) or it could get very sick from lack of CA, etc. Recommend Repashy or RepCal products; but unsure if available in there. Here is a sample dusting schedule to follow: http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...schedules.html.

10. Lighting from the room sometimes heating lamp if it gets cold
See number 4. Recommend a low UVB (2-5) compact fluorescent light for basking and either a red bulb or ceramic heat emmiter to maintain heat. Might need a controller (manual rehostat or auto thermostat) to dial in necessary temps.

11. Heating mats under the viv
Heating mats should be affixed to enclosure side and never to bottom with frogs. Be aware that they are very inneficient as heat sources when used on side.

18.sorry dont under stand the question
Means what are you feeding frog as main food and as treats. See no. 8.

19.2times since i got him
Wash hands well and rinse with dechlorinated water before handling frog.

20. Rather high but quet at night and part day
Recommend you cover tank's back and sides with aquarium background or any paper you like to reduce frog's stress.

21water changed daily never cleaned yet
Tank should be spot cleaned daily. If you have a water substrate (appears from pics) with no filter, should do 25% water changes daily with dechlorinated water.

I've made comments on applicable sections. Also, here is a good care article for your frog: Frog Forum - White's Tree Frog Care - Litoria caerulea . Good luck !