Hello everyone, I recently got a froglet from petsmart, but I have owned him for about 24 hours now, and I had not been able to feed him. After I got him, I let him acclimate to the conditions, but I never touched him. Anyways after two hours I tried to feed the frog with a small piece of nightcrawler, but it would not want to eat. Anyways I thought he was just too stressed, so 20 hours later, I try feeding him again but he just does not want to eat. When I saw the frog in it's container, there were crickets, small ones in its container, and I am thinking that this frog only wants to eat crickets maybe? Any tips on getting him to eat?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but 24 hours isn't a very long time to let a new frog acclimatise to its new surroundings and de-stress.. I've seen here on the forum that it can take a couple of days to a week before frogs become comfortable and relaxed enough to eat after getting a new home. I wouldn't worry about it just yet, but you can answer the http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...enclosure.html questions just in case![]()
If dragons were real I'd totally be in on that...
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Feed at night nokia. The frog should left alone until after dark.
Some don't readily eat worms at first. I would throw in a few small crickets at night and take a count in the morning. How big is your enclosure?
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Petsmart isnt known to sell froglets. If the size of the food is larger than 1/4 of its body size a froglet wont eat it. (IN MOST CASES) Always start with crickets as a starter food source.
Also since its a froglet its VERY important to dust with Vitamins and Calcium daily. Please support your thread with more information / photos. I concur with the others on this. Your frog may not eat for 2-3 days.
Fill these questions out so we can make sure everything is spot on for your frog. They will give us an idea on how your keeping your frog.
“Trouble in the Frog Enclosure”
The following information will be very helpful if provided when requesting assistance with either your frog or enclosure. To help with your questions, please utilize the below list and post the information in the proper forum area to get advice from FF members that keep the same frog. This will allow for little confusion and a faster more informed response.
1. Size of enclosure
2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences
3. Humidity
4. Temperature
5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
6. Materials used for substrate
7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials.
- How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv.
8. Main food source
9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often)
10. Lighting
11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
12. When is the last time he/she ate
13. Have you found poop lately
14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
15. How old is the frog
16. How long have you owned him/her
17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred
18. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats
19. How often the frog is handled
20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area
21. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc)
by Lynn(Flybyferns) and GrifTheGreat.
Since it's a baby you should dust with calcium 3 times a week and multivitamin once a week not everyday.
Lovenokia, please answer to the questions danfrog posted, we'll try to help you.
and yes dusting every day is a bad idea, too much of a good stuff making it a bad stuff! Dusting every second feeding with ca/vitd3 and once a week multivitamins - that is what you should do. So pretty much while yours if a baby you can do a schedule say m/w/f - Ca, Sundays - multivitamins, but at that point you shouldn't worry about that, not yet anyway.
So let's figure out husbandry and then we can help you more.
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
1. Size of enclosure
2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences 1
3. Humidity- 80% so,e fluctuations of +- 2%
4. Temperature 83 day and 78 nighttime
5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish conditioned
6. Materials used for substrate expertness
7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials. Water dish
- How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv. Water dish and echo earth
8. Main food source nightcrawlers
9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often) 3x calcium and 1x vitamins per week
10. Lighting 50 watt with dimmer during day if needed
11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure temps are above 80 in day below 80 at night
12. When is the last time he/she ate 36h ago
13. Have you found poop lately no
14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
15. How old is the frog just under 1" svl
16. How long have you owned him/her 36 hours
17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred captive, pacman frog
18. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats
19. How often the frog is handled has not been handled yet
20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area radium traffic
21. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc) water changed every other day
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1. Need to know the size of the enclosure.
6. Not sure what expertness is. Most people use eco earth.
10. Need to know exactly what type of light
11. Are you using just lights for heat?
14. Pics really help.
And what kind ( color) of pacman?
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
Ill be a bit more specific on the dusting. Dusting should be applied differently based on the diet you provide. Also what diet you apply to your insect and their calcium/phosphate/protein/uric acid levels are to benefit your herp. For instance if you feed a high protein and vitamin source food such as dubia roaches, superworm, earthworm you wont need to dust. Or if you feed gutloaded crickets you wont need to dust as often. I do not gutload my crickets because they end up getting fed off to fast. Maybe one gutload fed day which is not enough to provide nutrients to you herp. So I am required to dust daily due to the lack of nutrition the petstores and most cricket breeding farms provide. If you gutload feed 2 to 3 days before feeding you crickets should have enough vitamins and calcium in their system to dust once a week on vitamins and 3 to 4 tines a week on calcium. I go through my crickets to fast to gutload efficiently hense the fact of dusting daily. This is also a recomendation provided to me by michael novy a 20 year breeder of frogs. In addition I dont end up making a feeding everyday. Maybe 4 to 5 days out of the week they get fed. So ill also rephrase: daily being substituted with each feeding
And the size of enclosure is??? If anything larger than a small plastic critter keeper or 2.5G tank; baby Pacman will be stressed and refuse feeding.
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
This is not correct CJ. Horned frogs need INSANE amounts of calcium to support their growth. As a matter of fact they need far more calcium than other frogs within the hobby. This is crutial for them to develope proper bone growth and dencity. Gutloading is not enough and just offering calcium rich feeders is not enough. They will still need calcium supplements. Vitamins while important are needed less than the calcium.
Earthworms are high in protein and calcium, but if not supplemented with calcium the frog still has a greater chance of developing MBD, Hypocalcemia, or teteny. A diverse diet is always jmportant though.
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