Hello and welcome to FF Jay ! First of all; you need to read this: Frog Forum - Pacman and Horned Frogs - Ceratophrys - Care and Breeding . OK, so frog has been transferred to smaller cage and it's eating crickets...good. In critter cage you should have enough shredded coco so frog can bury a bit. Coco should be mixed with dechlorinated tap until slightly damp (clumps in fist but no water comes out). Also, have a small water dish where frog can bath filled with water to it's chin. Last thing you can add to plastic keeper is a small fake plant for frog to feel secure under, no sharp points please. Then you can place the whole plastic box inside the 10 gal.
You need to know the temp. and humidity so you can maintain the correct parameters. this is a good unit to track those. Place probe in center of tank's back wall, a couple inches from the substrate. As other's posted, keep temps 82-84F during the day with small drop at night. Humidity below 70% and above 90% is bad; so target 80% by spraying morning and night. If too low, can use plastic wrap or aluminum foil to seal 1/2 the ventilation or screen and see how that goes. You do not need to run a light or heat lamp if room temps are already as desired. Pacmans do not need UV lights; we just use lamps to heat up enclosures and observe them. BTW, "albino" Pacman eyes and skin are sensitive to any kind of daylight. Can only use red, black (moonlight) or ceramic heat emitters if yours is one .
You can cut the night crawlers around same as frog's length from the pointy end and they will heal. ZooMed's plastic yellow tongs are pretty good to tong feed. Approach frogs mouth slowly from the side and wiggle worm in front of it. If that doesn't get a strike; lightly rub the worm in the frogs lips and that should do it. Do not leave worm pieces or crickets in enclosure with frog if it's done eating. Crickets should be size same as distance between frogs eyes and should be "gut loaded" or fed with carrots, lettuce, oatmeal, fish food, etc. for 24-48 hours before feeding frogs.
I use Repashy supplements but RepCal is good too. CA/D3 2X and vitamins 1X on different days with skip day in between. Can dust all crickets while frog is growing. Can also dust worms, just rinse in dechlorinated tap, pat dry in paper towel, dust and feed frog.
Keep Pacmans alone, with their big mouths and sharp odontoid teeth, they can hurt each other unless while breeding in typical rain chamber. Hope this helps and good luck !
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog !
I'm in alabama. And buying from a reputable breeder is definitely a better choice. Even though I got mine from petstores.
I don't think it will be pleasant. Just prepare yourself not to sling the frog if it does bite you. The little frogs shouldnt hurt at all.
A lot of the breeders will mail your frog and have a live guarantee. Make sure you find a breeder and not a distributor. If my little one doesn't pull through ill be getting another from a breeder.
I know that one of the best breeders in the U.S. lives in cali.
He is mikesfrogs on these forums. You can pm him on the forums or google him and email him directly. I dont think he has bred any lately. But from my understanding his frogs come in the best conditions, and he has all sorts of morphs. It will be well worth the wait for a new spawning.
Worst I've been bitten by was a rampant prairiedog, both sides of my thumb to the bone. Hurts like a .
I will give you an idea of how it feels to be bitten by a large adult.
These pics were taken by Jim and Jessica Ivory of Ivory Reptiles. These are adult Pacman teeth.
An interesting fact about their teeth is that like sharks there are rows of teeth behind one another and when one is broken and falls out it is replaced. Except for the odontoids which is a boney extension of the lower jaw.
Ah! Frogsharks. Just don't tap the face, always use tongs when feeding, and keep well fed. And move slow.
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