for this years experiment i've got two "batches" of brown tree frog eggs (litoria ewingii), one lot comes from the port hills and the other lot from halswell area, heres a pic showing the four sections :two of the 4 sections have water heaters and are warmed to about 23 degrees, one halswell batch gets a heater and one port hills batch gets a heaterthe other two sections are left at room temperature, which fluctuates from 14 to 18 degrees C, and each of these sections holds a port hills batch and also a halswell batch.so what this should show is that the tadpoles reared in warmer water will develop faster than in colder water and also which breed will mature faster and whether theres much of a physical difference between the two breedsAUGUST THE 19TH:iseem to have lost the original photo of the eggs but what i did was i split it in half and put half in the warm water and half in the cold water and afterwards the half i left in the warmed water had started developing shape quicker than the half i left in the cold, heres pics
ort hills egg batch halfed into cold water :
port hills batch other half in warmed water :
AUGUST THE 20TH
ort hills cold :
port hills warm :
AUGUST THE 24TH :all but three of the warmed port hills eggs have left the egg mass and none of the cold port hills eggs have.as for the halswell eggs all of the warmed eggs have now left while the eggs in the cold mass left a day lateri did today a PH test, an ammonia test, a nitrate test a nitrite test and a high range ph test, heres the results
h was pretty even between the warm and cold tanks alkaline :
high range ph came out even also looks to be about 7.4 :
ammonia level also looks pretty even at around about .50 PPM
with the nitrate levels it looks like the warmer tank has slightly more nitrate as the pic shows :
and also the warmer tank seems to have more nitrite :
these tadpoles will be fed boiled lettuce with occasional spirulina snack :
heres a video of the setup
Thank you posting this interesting information![]()
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
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API is a good company. I use their water conditioner/dechlorinator.
Very interesting set-up comparing strains and rearing temps. Higher Nitrate at higher temps is normal due to increased metabolism. My question would be; is it better for the tadpoles physiology to grow fast? All life forms have so much life to live and burning the oil up does shorten it. It might be better for the species; but what about the individual?
A tip for you is that some of the API (and other brand) tests can be conducted with half the volume and thus extend the test kit life x2. For example, the nitrate and ammonia tests require 5 ml. test water and 10 drops each from 2 bottles. With an accurate 1 ml. calibrated dropper or pipette you can measure 2.5 ml. of test water and then half the drops to 5+5. Good luck!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
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