One Of My Dumpy Frogs Died Today

[Mentat]

I'm very sorry for your frogs death . They like day warm day temps of 85F; but 90F is too high and could have contributed to death. Keep offering crickets to survivor and if want to try force feeding (last resort thing) get some Fluker's Repta Boost.

You can also offer highly nutritious night crawlers to your Pacman (from Walmart's sport section, get the un-dyed kind). Earthworms length should be around same as frog SVL. You can cut from pointy end if required and they can also be rinsed in dechlorinated water, pat dry in paper towel, and dusted in bowl before feeding. Good luck and keep us up to day on feeding efforts .

[fr0g9]

I'm very sorry for your frogs death . They like day warm day temps of 85F; but 90F is too high and could have contributed to death.

They prefer it in the 80s during the day, but please stop being paranoid 90F isn't going to hurt your frog in any way.

On a side note, the remaining frog was dark when I got him and then lighted to a green. He's been that way ever since. The one that just died had been staying a dark green and then over the past week had gotten some spotting. He was really spotted yesterday on his head and this morning he was bright green like the one still living is. I wasn't worried as I had read that these guys to change their colors and often get dappling. The color on my now dead frog was flush against the skin and not raised or indented, so I thought nothing of it. I think I might have pictures of it, but I'll have to dig through my recent photo imports. I'll get them up tomorrow.

Spots appearing that weren't there when you got him are a RED FLAG!! A description of picture of the spotting would do a lot of good right now. If the frog had dark spots that look like small ulcers, or large puffy grey spots that to turn lime green spots right before death, you are looking at a fungal infection. If the spots are small white specs that usually run up the back, you are dealing with a bacterial infection. Actually based on the temperatures you are providing us, there is little to no chance it's fungal because Chytrid requires lower temps in the 70's to spread. Small white spots can also be natural, but generally speaking, specks are smaller than spots and always point to a bacterial infection.

First things first, clean that tank out and clean it good. No telling when the last time the pet store did a full cleaning and actually removed everything from the tank (I would be willing to bet NEVER). Next thing you need to do is determine what type of infection the first frog had (or if it had one), and treat the second Frog accordingly.

[Sasha]

Everyone has given good advise. I know your frog isn't eating right now but you want to get calcium WITH D3. The need the D3 to process the calcium.

[kahluafeeders]

Just to clarify, the cage is brand new with new everything. They were housed in a smaller ZooMed at the store together. Also, I do have both Calcium with D3 and without (my turtles live outside so they don't need the D3).

Here are photos of the frog that died:

[fr0g9]

Thanks for the pictures, now I can help! The light green spots are a sign of an advanced Chytrid fungus. Normally when it gets to that stage the spots are a bit bigger then that, but I think the high temps may be the reason they are smaller in this case. There is no way he caught the Chytrid virus from your setup, the temps are too high & you haven't had him long enough for it to progress that far.

For the sick frog you are going to want to start Lamisil treatment ASAP, here's what you need: First you need to locate some Lamisil AF Spray (make sure its the spray, not the gel), you can find it at Wal-Mart or Rite-Aid (Walgreens won't have spray, only have gel). Lamisil is made for treating athletes foot, so you will find it in the foot section. Next you are going to want to set up a temporary holding cell for the infected frog, the reason for this instead of his current housing is because you NEED to clean his living quarters daily so you want something smaller than his current tank for this. For the holding cell I recommend getting a plastic "Critter Keeper" (size: large) with 3 sides covered, eco friendly paper towels (light brown in color), a fake plant, and of course his water dish (changed twice daily). For anyone else trying this I would also say add a miniature under tank heater (the micro ones I believe are only 3 watts, a larger one is dangerous to use on plastic), but for you (kahluafeeders) the temps you posted are already high enough to prevent/weaken the fungus so you definitely shouldn't use any extra heat source. You will also need a separate container for his special Lamisil baths, a plastic shoebox with some holes in the lid works great for this.

Now for the treatment process: Once a day you are going to give him a 6-minute bath in a solution of spring water mixed with Lamisil. In-between each Lamisil bath it's very important that you clean out his temporary living quarters (you can do this while he's taking his bath). The approximate measurement I was given was 10 squirts of Lamisil per 500ml of water, the Lamisil Spray is a continuous flow nozzle so you won't be able to be exact. Put enough water in the bathing box so the frog can sit comfortably in it without having his mouth or nose submerged. Add Lamisil spray AFTER adding water, if the water is still completely clear there isn't enough Lamisil; the water should be very SLIGHTLY cloudy, you should see some small white particles floating around & its OK if you have a couple Lamisil blotches form on the bottom from where you sprayed. My setup held around 800ml of water at the desired water level, and tapping the nozzle rapidly 10-12 times seemed to be the provide the perfect amount. This Lamisil stuff does have some alcohol in it, so too much could be harmful! When you set the frog in the bath, use both index fingers to support his front legs so you can set him in gently with his back legs going in first, careful not to leave him in too long! In my experience, the frog will seem to enjoy the sensation during the bath, mine dunked down in it quickly a few times like he was trying to get it on the full surface area of his skin, and right around 5 minutes (right when he should be removed from the bath) he would climb up on one of the sides, almost like he knew how long he should be in there! The instruction I was given said to repeat this every day for two full weeks, some people said 7-10 days was good and it worked for them. For my sub-adult frog I only did 7 days of baths because by the second day his dark spots were completely gone, and by the end of the week his skin was looking so great, he was croaking every night, and was eating aggressively like a young frog should, so I could just tell the Lamisil had worked its magic! It's been 3 weeks since I did the treatment and there has been no signs of it returning, this really works and a lot of people have had wonderful experiences with this method!

Google around to see what other people say about the Lamisil baths, and check to see if there's anything I missed. I know I had trouble finding detailed instructions, so I'm trying to give you the best instructions out there! If anyone thinks of something to add, please chime in! I really hope you try this and have the same success I did, good luck to you and your frog!

[Mentat]

Respectfully disagree with light green spots being evidence of advance Chytrid fungus. To me they represent a skin irritation and should resolve once problem is removed. OP should ensure hands are washed well and rinsed with dechlorinated tap before handling frogs. I wear rinsed in dechlorinated water disposable gloves on rare occasions handle mines. IMO the priority now is to prevent further exposure to high temps and get frog eating again, good luck !

[flybyferns]

kahluafeeders,
How is your frog doing?