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Thread: Updated caresheet!!

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    MantisMan
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    Default Updated caresheet!!

    I have updated my caresheet, most differences being in the layout and I added to the feeding/breeding sections
    Practical Care of the OrientalFirebelly Toad, Bombina orientalis
    By Alex B
    Introduction:
    The firebelly toad, Bombina orientalis, is a small (2-3 inch)toad native to eastern Asia, found from southern China up to Korea and possiblyRussia. Their natural habitat is woodland areas surrounding permanent bodies ofwater. These toads are a very primitive species of amphibian, perhaps the mostprimitive in culture, and are a very popular and easy pet. These toads are veryforgiving and can tolerate a wide range of care conditions and have relativelybasic needs. These toads get their name for the red color of their underside,which indicates poison. These toads are mildly toxic, but it does not harmhumans unless the toad is ingested. It should be known however, that somepeople are allergic to these toads, and the toxins will make open cuts stingvery badly, and if hands are not washed after handling, don’t be surprised at asour taste after touching or your lips (I know this because I handled a few, then,without washing my hands, stuck a finger in a jar of frosting and when I put itin my mouth I could taste the liquidly toxins). I would not be overly concernedabout the toxins though, unless you are allergic or eat a large quantity, theyare not dangerous. It should be noted that pets such as cats or dogs and smallchildren should not have access to these toads because they do not recognizethe fact that these toads are poisonous to eat. In the wild, these toads, if onland, will flip and reveal their red undersides if threatened to scare offpotential predators. This is known as the unken reflex, unken being German fortoad. Captive individuals lose this instinct and eventually become tame aroundhumans, particularly if they associate the presence of a human with food. Withproper care these toads have been known to live up to 20 years, but a moreaverage lifespan is 5-10 years, and keep in mind a good percentage of thesetoads in pet stores are wild caught, and they may already be 2-6 years old oreven older in some cases. These toads make wonderful pets and are an enjoymentfor anyone.
    Obtaining a Toad:
    These toads are very common in pet stores andanyone can go to a local store and pick one up. However, randomly going to astore and picking up just any toad is careless. You want to look for a healthyspecimen that will give you years of enjoyment. Avoid unreasonable prices forthese toads, since they are incredibly common and low maintenance, avoid payingmore than $15 for one, and a reasonable price range is between 4 and 10 dollars.If you choose to obtain some through an online site be sure they have a goodreputation for selling healthy animals, since you cannot examine a specimenbought through the internet. This does not necessarily mean a pet store is anybetter. I’ve seen very unhealthy toads at pet stores before. Just because thesetoads don’t require a whole lot of care doesn’t mean they will do well withlong term neglect (they will, however, do fine for about 1 week at less thanideal conditions, and are very resilient). A healthy toad should have vividcolors, clear and wide open eyes, a dark, heart shaped pupil, moist, unbrokenskin, is plump, alert, and active. I would avoid any stores who have skinny,discolored (a chocolate brown is not bad, but merely a variation) or blotchylooking toads. If there are dead animals in the cage (particularly if they aredead in the water area of the holding cage), you should avoid buying from thesupplier. Avoid anyone who doesn’t guarantee the animals (I buy from petsmartusually, and they guarantee the animals for 2 full weeks, but in recent yearsthey haven’t taken particularly good care of them). Also, no bones or bumpsshould be visible underneath the skin. The toad also should be able tocoordinate its movements properly and balance itself properly in water (if ittilts to one side or has problems swimming it could be malnutrition or a spinalinjury sustained by another animal). Also, when picked up or held the toadshould vigorously try to get free (a good test would be to form a cup with yourhands and lightly hold it and see if it tries to free itself from your grasp,but be gentle so it doesn’t harm itself). Lastly, the toad should not have anydischarge coming from any areas of its body unless it’s defecating. The fecesshould be dark, round, firm, and consistent. Any misshape, red ordiscoloration, or runniness can be a cause for alarm. To see the stool, put itin a small cage with moist paper towels on the bottom, and within about a dayit should defecate.
    Before you obtain your toad, be sure to havea cage set up for it and be sure you are able to care for it for its lifespan,which may last 10 years or more. These toads are active and like to explore,and don’t be alarmed if the toad is more interested in half-destroying the newenvironment and exploring than it is in eating. It can take 2-3 days for a newanimal to begin eating again, and as long as it was a healthy weight when itwas obtained, it should be fine between meals.
    Housing:
    Before purchasing one or more healthy individuals, you need toset up a cage for the toads. They can survive several days in a small,ventilated cage with moist paper towels on the floor in case you haven’t yetset up a permanent cage for them. A single toad can do fine in a clear 5 gallonRubbermaid or sterilite bin, provided the lid fits right and is properlyventilated (middle cut out and replaced with mosquito netting or mesh), and a10 gallon fish tank can house up to 6 fully grown toads. These toads are veryhardy and can tolerate a wide range of setups. A cage with a few inches ofmoist peat moss, a small water bowl, and fake plants or vines is a good, simplesetup for them. You can even add live plants that have minimal lightrequirements and that are free of any fertilizers and pesticides. Sphagnum mossalso works well, but it should be rinsed with hot water to prevent attractingof fungus gnats, and both mosses are readily available as bricks at pet stores,and adding a gallon of water expands them. Another option is the half land,half water cage. This is accomplished with rinsed aquarium gravel, and the landarea has a taller pile of gravel so when you add about 2-4 inches of water tothe tank, about half of the tank worth of gravel juts out of the water. Be sureto cover the land gravel with moss so the toads don’t accidentally ingest it,which can kill them. A third option is the mainly aquatic option, with a thinlayer of gravel on the bottom of the tank, 3-6 inches of water, fake or liveplants, and a fake rock, Lilly pad, or other object sticking out of the waterto serve as land. Anything in between any of the 3 setups also works. It mainlydepends on your taste and budget, but the most important points are nochemicals, a moist environment with at least a small swimming area, shelter,and temperatures between 68 and 74 degrees, which can be accomplished with asmall light (do not place directly on plastic lids and be sure the toads can’tdirectly touch the bulb) over the cage. Also, the water should be rain water orspring water (at a grocery store, a gallon jug of spring water can cost lessthan a dollar), as tap water has too many minerals and chlorine and distilledwater is too pure and can cause problems with the toads’ fluid intake andpossibly blood pressure (remember the concept of diffusion). Any visible waste(shed skin, dead insects, feces) should be removed when it is seen and every 6months everything should be taken out, rinsed, moss replaced, and cleaned well(use hot water only, no soap or chemicals). Once a year replace gravel. Itypically use the mostly aquatic setup and once a month I stir up the gravel toloosen up the waste, then I use a fine beta net and a pipette to remove the nowfloating waste and every 4-6 months I rinse everything and clean it well. Ifthe toads are actively spawning (will get to this later) it’s a good idea towait until all eggs hatch before doing too much cleaning to avoid harming them.It is not a good idea to house other species with these toads, mainly becauseof the toad’s toxins. If you do house something with the toads, be sure bothanimals are similar sizes so they don’t try and eat each other. I have housedtreefrogs with these toads without a problem since the toads can handle a mossycage and the treefrogs stay off the ground unless feeding and they don’t havetoo much contact with each other so they don’t absorb each other’s secretions.Just be sure to meet both species’ needs and make sure that they both eatenough.
    Feeding:
    Firebelly toads are eager eaters and will goafter any invertebrate they can swallow (they will sometimes bite each other’sfeet, but it is not something to worry about unless one toad is significantlylarger than the other). Fully grown toads need only to be fed 2-3 times a weekand can go up to 3 weeks without food in summer. If you have to go away on ashort vacation, just be sure to feed the toads up well before you leave andthey will be fine. Crickets are a fairly good staple diet, they are easy tocare for and gut load. Crickets do have a few disadvantages, such as theirnoises, odor, death rate, expensiveness, and their potential to bite your toad.Crickets are good if you have only a few toads, as you can easily buy about 100crickets, which will last you about 5 weeks, though if you have a large numberor are looking for a better feeder option, roaches are great. Crickets androaches can be kept in similar ways. For crickets, I take a small bin (or alarge bin for higher quantities, 10 adult crickets need about 1 gallon of binspace and an 18-20 gallon bin can house a few thousand cricket nymphs up to ahalf inch size). I place cardboard egg crate for climbing surfaces, add thecrickets, cover the container and store it in a cool, shady location in thehouse. I will feed the crickets different fruits and vegetables, such ascarrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, oranges, bananas, and apples. Carrots,potatoes, sweet potatoes, and other hard vegetables should be placed inmicrowave bowls with water and microwaved 8-10 minutes or until softened.Apples should be chopped up, and bananas/oranges/citrus should be peeled. Food shouldbe removed before or just as mold forms. If you feed the toads every 3 days,100 crickets, assuming you have 2 toads, and every cricket survives to be food,you should be set for about 5½ weeks. Keep in mind cricket prices are risingfrom the virus that is killing them off, and they add up after so many months,though a new cricket species is common now and is resistant to disease. Cricketsdon’t need much else, as long as food is fresh, no extra water is needed, butwater gels can be used. There are varying opinions on how much protein the cricketswill need, I would offer larger crickets fish flakes or something because theyare somewhat cannibalistic, but very small crickets (under half an inch) don’t needextra protein. If you choose to hibernate the toads, then that’s 3 months youdon’t need crickets for, but this will stimulate spawning (will get to thislater).
    Roachesare my preferred feeder insect. Not only are they inexpensive and disease free,they can be bred for a continuous supply of food. I use an 18 gallon Rubbermaidcontainer with a ventilated lid. Lobster roaches, Nauphoeta cinerea, are anexcellent feeder roach. I set up the bin with a shallow substrate of moist peatmoss (an inch works-I use it just because in such a large bin with under tankheating, it gets dry really fast. I don’t do this with crickets because theyare kept at room temperature and their humidity is usually fine) and a fewlayers of egg crate and I buy 100 mixed roaches. As a bonus, since the adultroaches are too big for the toads to eat, you can leave all adults in thecolony to reproduce and feed off smaller babies. Also, they are tropicalinsects from the Caribbean that need warm temperatures to survive and if a fewget loose they will not be a problem, crickets are more problematic if they getloose than tropical roach species (I only use tropical roaches that are noproblem if they escape, and rarely have escapees since they hang out with theother roaches due to the smell of their roach relatives-humans typically cannotsmell roaches). These roaches climb plastic so be sure to have a tight lid onthe cage and rub Crisco along the upper edges so they can’t climb to the lid. Ikeep these on heat rope (I have the heat rope on plywood, plugged into arheostat, set on high, and I just have the bin on this). As long as the heatrope is secure (so it can’t get loose and touch itself), it won’t melt theplastic bin. I would avoid excessive feeding of a starting roach colony (let atleast half the nymphs reach adulthood and breed for about 2 months), thoughusually plenty of extra roaches are shipped and you can afford to feed offabout 20 or so. A colony with less than 200 roaches can be kept in a 3-5 gallonbin under an infrared bulb so it grows faster. With both feeder insects be sureto keep the cages clean and food constant and fresh.
    In order to maintain their red bellies, thesetoads need carotene in the food they eat. This can usually be achieved by gutloading feeder insects with things such as carrots, peppers, mango, oranges,sweet potato, and other fruits and vegetables full of beta carotene and othercarotenoids, but many tropical fish flakes with color enhancers also help.Things such as bloodworms and brine shrimp also help maintain the red color andbuying frozen ones that you then thaw and wave in front of the toad with longfeeding tongs is worthwhile. Not only does this help simulate the diet theywould have in the wild but will help improve your relationship with your fairlysmart, long lived, amphibious friend. Repashy’s superpig is a pigment supplementdust that can be used once a week to enhance the colors of the toads as well.Not every feeding they get needs to contain carotenes. As treats, waxworms,maggots, silkworms, small earthworms, and hornworms are nice feeders. Be sureto feed the toad things not much larger than the head size, as they swallowprey whole. Large adults will slurp down earthworms up to 3 times their bodylength though I would chop the worm up before using them for food.
    Adultfirebellies need food every 3-4 days, though in some cases should receive more.Also, younger ones need food every other day (most people say every day but Ifind really young toadlets don’t have that kind of appetite, they do build anappetite as they develop); otherwise they will not be properly nourished andwill be undersized adults. At the very least, calcium dust should be used. I putthe dust in a small cup and swirl insects around in it before feeding them tothe toads. Then I tilt the cup and when the insects crawl out of the dust, I tapthem into the tank. The dust shouldn’t be allowed to pour into the tank inlarge quantities. I also use vitamin dust, though it should not be used morethan twice a week (unless needed) to avoid overdosing the toads on it. I usedust every feeding so the toads get extra benefits from eating. It may take afew weeks for the toads to get used to the taste of the dust but they willeventually be used to it.
    Breeding:
    If you have been keeping these toads for afew years and decide you really like them and wish to breed them, you will findit relatively easy to do so. However, do not just breed any animal for the sakeof breeding them. Keep in mind firebelly toads produce hundreds of young andyou may be responsible for all of those. If you are only looking for a fewmore, it is a better idea to just buy a couple more at the pet store. If youreally do want to study their life cycle and grow your own, just keep in mindit is a lot of work and can be difficult. You won’t make much money if you sellthem, and unless you live in their native region, they cannot be released intothe wild. I will mention that an advantage to breeding these toads in captivityis that a captive breeding program for this species can be established,producing healthier individuals and reducing independence on wild populationsfor specimens. I was 15 when I first bred these toads, so if a 15 year old canbreed this species, most people can.
    You are ethically obligated to care for theyoung that you decided to bring into the world, so keep these things in mindbefore and while you put forth a breeding plan. Another aspect of responsiblebreeding is the fact that only healthy, fully mature individuals should be putthrough such a demanding process and inbreeding should be avoided at all costs.
    Breeding these toads can prove difficult inthe sense of obtaining males and females. Since about 90% of this species’population is male, it can prove difficult to find one or two females that youcan use. Compared to females, males are slightly smaller and often have bumpierbacks, though this isn’t the most reliable method. Males have thicker forearmsand nuptial pads, but these differences are hardly distinctive and they aredifficult to differentiate. Just picking a huge, fat toad out of a pet storedoes not guarantee it to be female. Males do behave differently than females.They make more noise (though an unreceptive female will make a franticvibrating chirping sound when grabbed; males accidentally grabbed will make thesame sound), which is anything from a soft tink to an almost ape like holler.Also, when in a cage with a few inches of water, males will grab and attempt tomate with passing toads quite often. Sooner than later you will notice this,and since only males do this, if you have a toad that never grabs another toadand you’ve had it for a good 2 months, it’s a safe bet its female. My femaleoften times is always round even when the males are skinny and they haven’teaten in weeks (such as after hibernating) and she hogs the food sometimes.
    The more toads you have, the better, though Ihad success with a group of 3 males and 1 female, it is ideal to have twicethat number. The more crowded the better in the breeding season. The onlycaution I have is not to have a huge over accumulation of males and only 1female, anything more than 3 males to 1 female is a safety danger, as manymales attempting to mate with a single female can severely injure her, I hadthis happen to a small female and she sustained a spinal injury she neverrecovered from. Another option is to buy some from an online site that will sexadults for you, they are more experienced and are usually accurate. The onlydisadvantage to this is shipping is stressful, expensive, and you cannotexamine the specimen you receive before purchasing.
    After you have 1 or 2 females and 3-6 malesto go with them, you must begin to condition them to breed. First, make a peakdaylight of 16 hours, which should be done in early July (if it gets cold inthe winter in your area this helps). A timer used for lamps and otherelectrical devices works well for this, just attach it to the lamp over thecage. Every 2 weeks decrease the daylight by half an hour and feed the toadsvery well, making sure to supplement meals. Start letting the water level drop,and when the toads have about 12½ hours of daylight, they will lose interest infood and act more sluggish. This is a good sign. Make sure they were loaded upwith food and are nice and plump. Feeding them waxworms helps them bulk up. Ifyou had peak daylight the first week of July, it should be late October/earlyNovember now.
    Take the toads and place them in a small tankwith 5 inches of moist sphagnum moss and place it in a cool area that doesn’tget warmer than 60 degrees but no cooler than about 55, though they cantolerate temps as low as 48 for SHORT periods of time (I know this on accountof a winter storm/power outage that drastically cooled down my house and theywere fine). I use the closet in my room, since it juts out of the house and isa bit cooler than my room in winter (see why it is a good idea to hibernate themin sync with your region’s winter?) but any other closet in my upstairs worksand one leads up to an unheated attic so it gets nice and cool, but be carefulso it doesn’t get too cold. Unheated sheds work as long as they are insulated abit and garages can also be used but exhaust from a car may harm them. If yourfridge is set between 55 and 60 degrees (mini fridges may work if you don’twant to do this to a whole big fridge), you can put them in that but be surethey don’t dry up. They don’t need much daylight (I usually remove them fromthe hibernation location for a few minutes once a week, and every month for anhour so I can tweezer offer each toad a waxworm or 2), and barely lighting themat all really helps convince them it’s winter. They may burrow, they may not,but they don’t move too much, which is nothing to be concerned about.
    After about 12 weeks, it is a good idea to setup the big tank again so they can awaken. Get gravel (white gravel makes iteasy to see eggs) and make a deep end and a shallow end in the tank. The deepend should be 2 inches deeper than the shallow end and cover about ¾ of the tank.In the deep end I put plenty of plants (both real ones with minimal light needsand fake ones that like neglect) and fill the tank with 1½ inches of water andadd the toads. I cover the exposed gravel with paper toweling so it does notget ingested. The shallow end has a large fake rock/cave ornament, which seemsuseless now but in a few weeks will be useful. I give them 13 hours of daylightthe day they come out of hibernation, increasing by 30 minutes every otherweek.
    The first two weeks they are out ofhibernation, I feed them heavily daily and give them plenty of dustingsupplements. As the weeks progress I add more water and floating aquaticplants. When the water levels are up to about 6 inches at the deepest end (seethe use of the rock now?) and daylight hours are at 14½ to 15 (about 3-6 weeksafter finishing hibernating), the toads should spawn.
    The males will grasp toads any time they arein water, but unless he grabs a receptive female, nothing will occur. He mayalso grab plants and insects. Males often eat very little, and after thespawning ends their appetites will return to normal. Once he finds a receptivefemale the pair engages in amplexus. If the female just sits there and the maleshakes his back legs invariably, spawning will occur. The female will notreject the male and during the night she will deposit eggs singly on plantmatter. The eggs will be small half black half white balls about the size ofthe loop of a safety pin and will be encased in a double jelly membrane. Theywill eventually absorb the white portion and become tadpole shaped, and hatchin 4-8 days depending on temperature.
    4 days later the tadpoles begin eating. Startthem off with food low in protein, it’s healthier for them and helps them bulkup. I always remove tadpoles from the adult cage after they hatch, or I movethe unhatched eggs, and put them in a separate, 5 gallon tank full of water. Ifyou don’t, the adults may eat the tadpoles. The adults will more than likelyspawn again, but don’t put the eggs in the tank full of tadpoles, as they maybecome quick snacks for the developed tadpoles. I often keep tadpoles separatedby age, and I don’t overcrowd them. In a 5 gallon tank of water, I keep no morethan 50 tadpoles in it-10 tadpoles per gallon is ideal. Keeping tadpoles undercrowded is bad as well, since they may not eat properly, but overcrowdedtadpoles will metamorphosize too quickly and will be undersized. Undersized toadletshave higher mortality, perhaps partially because of the food size smallertoadlets are able to handle, smaller foods mean less nutrients. I have observedthat the first tadpoles to metamorphosize will be smaller than the last ones,and the last few tadpoles left behind display a major slow-down in growth. Thisadds to my theory that when they are overcrowded, they rush metamorphosis, andwhen under crowded, they grow too slow from not eating right. The best ways tocombat these issues are to house them by age and keep them at densities of10-15 per gallon of water.
    I keep the tadpoles at room temperature andput the tank next to the adults so the light reaches them. This means the eggswill grow faster when kept in the adult cage, and when they hatch I transferthem to the tadpole tank with a turkey baster. I start them out on algae wafersas well as blanched lettuce/collard greens mix. I lightly boil the greens for 8minutes and chop them up. I store it in a bag in the freezer for safe keepingand when I need some I defrost it in a bowl of water, take what I need, and therest goes back into the freezer. Young tadpoles (under 2 weeks old) only needdaily feeding, but as they get older, a constant flow of food should beoffered. They eat ravenously and grow rapidly. After about 3 weeks I startfeeding them fish flakes. They will become toads in 4-9 weeks depending on thetemperature and quality of food.
    When they start developing front legs theyneed land areas to climb up on. Even when they have front legs and tails, theywill feed, unlike most frogs. The tadpole tanks will have rocks for emergenttoadlets (though I let the toadlets stay with tadpoles until the tails areabsorbed so they don’t dry up) and I will toss undusted fruitflies on the rockfor the young toadlets. After the toadlets absorb the tails, they need to beremoved, as young toadlets without tails are prone to drowning and tadpolesseem to like to eat fresh toadlets.
    I transfertoadlets to another 5 gallon bin (with ventilated lid and mesh under the entiretop to prevent toadlets from getting feet stuck under the lid and drying up)with moist paper towels on the bottom. The paper towels will need to be changeddaily and must stay moist. No water bowl should be given to the young toadletsas they are easily drowned. Toadlets shouldn’t be overcrowded (they bully eachother out of food like crazy), they should be kept in densities of 20 toadletsper 5 gallons of space. The toadlets will be tiny and need to eat fruitflies forthe first few weeks.
    Fruitflies are easy to culture, you canobtain Drosophila hydei cultures very easily online and when the culture isabout 3 weeks old you can take a medium apple, cut it up, blend it in a blenderwith vinegar, mix ¼ cup orange juice with ¼ cup organic plain oatmeal and stirthe apple/vinegar and juice/oatmeal mixes together, add a tiny bit of honey andyeast, then place in the bottom of a 32oz deli cup. Add raffia straw and coverwith a ventilated lid. In 1-2 days you can add 30 or so adult flies and inabout 2 weeks the new culture will keep producing for you. The young toadletswill need to be fed food supplemented with carotenes so they develop red color,though it is difficult when using fruitflies. Also, please don’t use carotenedust until the toadlets are a few weeks old. It is more important that thetoadlets get calcium and vitamin dust. Calcium dust sticks well to any feeder,and the toadlets grow faster with dust. The key is to get the toadlets past thefruitfly stage as quickly as possible; my personal record is 3 weeks.
    Dusting tiny feeder insects with a carotene dusthelps, gut loading pinhead crickets and tiny baby roaches with carotene filledfood is also a good idea, but newly metamorphosized toadlets are too tiny forthis. With the small toadlets I often will take a small cup and put some calciumor vitamin dust in it, pour fruitflies into it, then swirl it. The flies arethen coated with the dust and I put the whole cup in the cage. When the fliescrawl out of the cup they are eaten before the dust falls off. Be carefulthough as young toadlets are excellent climbers and if one climbs up the cupand falls into the dust, the dust will dehydrate the toadlet and kill it. Inotice young toadlets often have issues catching prey and the sticky tonguesare not developed so it is important to have small prey always available. Withoutdust, mortality will be high, between 12 and 30%. Most deaths occur betweenmetamorphosis and sexual maturity, very few tadpoles die, but after about 3months they seem to be more stable.
    Without dust,all but about a dozen toadlets survived. The next year, supplements not onlymade adults breed more, about 60 toadlets survived to the stable stage (4-5months after metamorphosis), with only about 30 deaths, mainly due to carelessdehydration accidents on my part.
    Atabout 4 months old, virtually every toadlet still alive will survive and theycan be fed thawed bloodworms off a toothpick, which helps them gain nutrientsand pigments. After toadlets can eat bigger food than fruitflies (very young cricketsand roaches), the bottom of the bins can be furnished with moist peat moss,which makes cleaning easier and I feel the soil is beneficial for the digestivesystems of the toadlets. I would use crickets for younger toadlets, since itseems the shape of roaches makes them hard for toadlets to eat. Ghann’s cricketfarm sells crickets of all sizes for very low prices, and I use 1/8 inch crickets,bought in quantities of 6,000 for about $75 shipped (once a month purchase) andhoused as described in the feeding section, dusted and fed to toadlets daily orevery other day. I will also start offering roaches but I find my roach colonyhas trouble keeping up with the needs of the toadlets (the issue is only thefirst 2 instars of the roach’s life cycle are small enough for younger toadletsand while the colony could have 800+ individuals, only 3-6% of them may be asuitable size, and this is quickly diminished by the toadlets), and so it ismore worthwhile to buy bulk crickets until the toadlets are bigger. At 5-6months old, toadlet care can be identical to adult care except the food issmaller, the tank should be smaller, the tank should securely fit theclimbing-prone toadlets (the loose fitting lid on a 10-gallon tank isn’t suitablefor small toadlets), and the toadlets shouldn’t be housed with the adults. Thetoadlets become mature between 8 and 14 months old (males will displayterritorial mating behaviors before reaching full size) and are more robust andtame than their parents, who were likely wild caught.
    In Conclusion:
    The firebelly toad is an exciting andforgiving pet that is well worth keeping. They are easy and hardy and it isvery rewarding to own one and watch it eat and move and become accustomed toyou. They are long lived and their ease of care allows anyone to become closerto amphibians. Breeding them gives an encouraging challenge to any hobbyist andthese toads are a perfect addition to any household and forever will be.

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    Default Re: Updated caresheet!!

    Holy squirrel in a dump truck! That's a lot of words!
    "Look on the wall behind you. Look at that little girl's face. I know you've seen it. But you know what she's never going to be able to see? She's never going to be able to see the simple wonder of a leaf in her hand. Because there's not going to be any trees. Now you think about that."
    R.I.P. Lola
    R.I.P. Bandit

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