Hey, I would really like to start out a vivarium with some leucomelas as they have always been my favorite frogs as a child and I've read they are one of the more 'easier' to care for out of the darts. I was considering a exo terra glass terrarium 45x45x60 which I know will be a suitable size. I would like to know:
1. What changes would I need to make to the terrarium? ( to make it safe, and prevent fruit flies escaping)
2. What is the best way to maintain the correct temperatures of mid 20's (24-27) and the most efficient way to maintain humidity required?
3. How many frogs is a safe and suitable number to keep to reduce likeliness of disputes and retain happiness?
4. What plants are suitable?
5. What lights are needed and are heat pads/lights needed?
6.How often do you recommend a full clean out etc besides spot cleaning?
7. How often do you recommend the frogs to be fed?
8. What drainage mechanism is the best?
Thank you for your help and time, if i think of anymore issues or questions I will respond with more. Or any advice will be grateful thanks
Hello BenR, Leucomelas are some of the easier species to care for. To prevent friut flies from escaping, Black
electrical tape or Duct tape would do the trick along the ventilation strip. To maintain heat for these frogs, a heat
pad on the Side of the terrarium is usually best, basking bulbs are unnesecary but some darts do seek out warmer
temps in the cage, so you could call that "Basking". in an exo terra large (45x45x60 30 gallons) up to six darts can
be in there but four would be a better umber for the happiness of the frogs Some good plants for the Leucs are
Bromeliads, Creeping fig, andphilodendron or golden pothos, Leucs are a bigger frog so thicker leaf plants may
be a good idea. For heating and lighting, a 10 to 20 gallon heat pad on the side of the tank will provide sufficient
heat for your frogs.Light bulbs ive used for Santa isabel darts at my pet store are 2.0 uvb bulbs for plant growth and a
day/light cycle for the frogs (UV bulbs are not needed for plants). When setting up your vivarium, properly watering
and introduction of microfauna such as springtails will make your terrarium so you dont need to clean for about a
year or two, If mold dose show up in the terrarium, make sure to let the soil dry out in between waterings.
The leucs as mentioned earlier are larger frogs so they can be fed a variety of friut flies from Melenogaster and
larger Hydeai, Pinhead crickets are harder to work with and your frogs may lose interest in them, i suggest feeding
froglets every day and adults to 3 times a week. I personally like using Hydroton clay drainage over egg crate because
its much lighter and it gives an area for beneficial bacteria to grow and an area for your plant's roots to hook into
Hope this has helped!![]()
- Frogs toad and tree frogs Barlett and Barlett
"A Righteous man cares for his animals" - Proverbs 12:10
1.0.0 Correlophus cilliatus
2.1.0 Bombina orientalis
0.1.0 Ambystoma mexicanum
0.0.1 Ceratophrys cranwelli
1.0.0 Litoria caerulea
1.1.0 Dendrobates auratus "Nicaraguan"
0.0.2 Dendrobates tinctorius "Azureus"
Hello and welcome to FF Ben! Ryan covered your questions well so only thing will add is to get a nice controller like the ExoTerra Hygrotherm to help maintain the enclosure temperature and humidity. Also, head to the vivarium section where there are many threads with build projects to learn and get ideas from. Recommend start your own build thread in there so that way you can show us pics and ask questions as you go. Good luck!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
Hello Ben,
I saw this post this AM. It caught my eye because I have Leucs, tooand use exo-terra enclosures as well. So, I thought we could share experiences.
1. What changes would I need to make to the terrarium? ( to make it safe, and prevent fruit flies escaping)
The newer exo-terras do not have as big a space in the door slots ( comparing my newest I purchase this year to the one I purchased in 2009) . I really do not see too many FF escaping. Do they get out ...Yes, but it's not so bad. If you put the FF further back into the tank. the frogs will take care of them before they get to the door. I have completely removed the screens and replaced it with glass. I would not cover the front vents or the area in the lid for the cords, as they will need this for ventilation.
2. What is the best way to maintain the correct temperatures of mid 20's (24-27) and the most efficient way to maintain humidity required?
Humidity will not be maintain in an exo for darts with out removing the screening. I decrease temps in the summer, if needed with a fan, in the area of the tanks; but be careful with this as you do not want to change the temps quickly. It's a delicate balance. Get yourself a good hygrometer - the closed probe type. Remember, using a fan will also change the humidity.
3. How many frogs is a safe and suitable number to keep to reduce likeliness of disputes and retain happiness?
Unlike many darts, Leucs do not mind being in a group. I have 5 in my tank , of which is the 36Wx24Wx18. They seem to have enough space. Maybe 4 is what you might consider? BTW....They love to climb ! Sometimes they think they're tree frogs![]()
4. What plants are suitable?
They need to have live plants.
My favorite place to purchase plants is Black Jungle. I see you are in Canada...but you could use their site as a guide if shipping is too expensive.
Check it out...lots pf great information and very nice people.
Terrarium Plants
5. What lights are needed and are heat pads/lights needed?
Lights and heat pads? Two very different questions.
The plants need lights.
I use 2 different bulbs. ( summer/winter) My tanks are in my basement:
summer 13 watt LED of which give off ,basically , no heat
winter - an inexpensive 75 W "Philips" plant bulb from Home depot. Because it gives off some heat.
The ceiling in the basement has florescent fixtures. I replace the bulbs w/ plant bulbs.
I hang one additional uv bulb in the area.
Any heat source should be used with extreme caution. I don't use a heat pad ? You want to do something to increase the ambient temp in the area where the tanks are. You do not want to see 27C on your thermometer. 23-26 is fine.
Do Not keep sustained above 80F !! It would not be pretty !I do use heat cables in the winter. I can give you additional info on the way I have this set up if you want it. I'ts a bit complicate to explain how I have this set up in the racks. But please understand this needs to be done very, very carefully, and should not touch the glass! The temp in the tank ( especially the soil needs close monitoring) If it gets too warm your frogs will die!
6.How often do you recommend a full clean out etc besides spot cleaning?
I drill a drainage hole in all my tanks, so it's likely I will never have to do a "compete" cleaning.
Otherwise, you may have to siphon water out occasionally depending how much water you have use to mist.
Automatic misting with "Mist King" is an accessory to consider investing in.
Actual cleaning-I clean the glass with distilled water and paper towel. A leuc enclosures will get soiled glass as they like to climb the glass. The leaves can be sprayed by hand with water or wiped. The soil will take care of itself but you will want to seed it with both springtails and isopods. ( they will act like janitors) You will want to learn to culture both of these to replenish the supply in the enclosure as the frogs will eat them as well
Springtails - Feeder Insects and Supplies | Josh's Frogs
Isopods at Josh's Frogs
7. How often do you recommend the frogs to be fed?
I feed all my darts - daily
8. What drainage mechanism is the best?
prepare easy access for siphoning, frequency varies from tank to tank.
Or drill ? - I'm so, so glad, I did thisIf you would like more information on the drill/drainage thing me know.
I'm sure you know , there are still lots of details left out here.
So keep reading and learning , and reading , and learning !Practice makes perfect!
Lynn
Last edited by flybyferns; August 20th, 2013 at 08:52 AM. Reason: typo
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
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