Quote Originally Posted by ablino bullfrog View Post
...Here is my burning question, if bull frogs are supposed to like less aquatic environments (per the new pet store), why does he almost exclusively swim or float in the water??? I took him in so that the new pet store could confirm that he is a bull frog and not a regular frog. I bought a light that is on during the day. I just bought another black light bulb, so I can go back to having the light on at night. Is he cold? is he OK? Should I worry about him swimming all the time? Does he need less water? Should I have given the moss more than a week?

I am a newbie and want to do a good job of caring for him. Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Also, how much should he eat and how often?
Pet Shop employees might be well intentioned but you have to understand something... most will have little to no frog knowledge but will give lots of advice and sell you stuff you do not need or could risk your frog.

Currently we do not have an American Bullfrog care article; but here is a bit of a discussion Caspian had on them: http://www.frogforum.net/care-sheet-...caresheet.html . For an enclosure most Ranas do well on a 1/4 to 1/3 dry and rest water set-up. Can start yours on a 20L tank but be ready to upgrade, specially if a large female. How long is your frog snout to vent (SVL)?

Can either do a set-up with pieces of slate to create a platform above water level or build a false bottom under the dry area and fill up with clay aggregate to an inch above the water table. Then a layer of plastic window screen or similar and above that shredded coco or ABG soil if keeping live plants. No gravel, no pebbles frog could swallow, and no moss!

The water section will need a filter and you need to get a power one that is overrated at least for twice (4 is better) times the actual (not tank) volume. If you need help determining that post your tank length, width, and the water depth and I'll get you the approximate water volume. For a 20L to 40B would go with this internal one: Amazon.com: Ovation 1000 Submersible Power Jet Filter - 265 gph: Pet Supplies . For larger tanks a canister filter overrated 4X the water volume is a better choice.

Please search forum or web for more info but in general terms your frog excretes urea which contains highly toxic ammonia. Once set-up with beneficial bacteria (around 30 days but can cut that in half with a product like Seachem's Stability) they will reduce that to nitrites (half as bad) and then other bacteria will reduce that to nitrates which are bad only in high concentrations. You get rid of those with weekly water changes. Until your filter is cycled (has enough bacteria to reduce all of frog's metabolites) recommend doing daily 1/2 volume water changes. Once cycled 25% a week should be good. The filter medium should be rinsed with tank water during water changes. Replacing all medium at the same time will create a mini-cycle and should be avoided.

Normal Ranas enjoy a basking spot with light (2.0 UVB content). Due to albinos sensitive skin and eyes; can do that with red bulb or a ceramic heat emitter. Flukers has dome units with a built in dimmer that can help adjust bulb output as required.

Feed all frog will eat to satiation once a day around 30 minutes after frog is active. Can use gut fed crickets, dubias, and night crawlers. For insects feed one same size as distance between frog's eyes. For earth worms pieces the length of frog are OK (cut from pointy end and worms will heal). Dust feeders with CA/D3 2X and vitamins 1X weekly on different days with skip day in between.

Well, hope this helps you a bit and let us know if can be of further assistance, good luck !