Decreasing humidity.

[Glenn]

Can you not adjust the hydrotherm to maintain a lower humidity? Or is it permenantly set at 80%?

[Jimbok3]

If you increase the amount of ventilation (airflow) the tank gets, it should quickly lower the humidity. I wish I had your problem, my WTF terrarium is to dry (switching over to bioactive substrate and adding more plants is starting to help). Best of luck

[Pyxiefan001]

Can you not adjust the hydrotherm to maintain a lower humidity? Or is it permenantly set at 80%?

The fogger only comes on when it drops a couple of levels below 80%. I set it there b/c I thought 80% was the ideal humidity for Pyxies. And since the levels are above said setting, it won't come on otherwise.

If you increase the amount of ventilation (airflow) the tank gets, it should quickly lower the humidity. I wish I had your problem, my Whites Tree Frog terrarium is to dry (switching over to bioactive substrate and adding more plants is starting to help). Best of luck

I just said ventilation is NOT restricted in any way. What more can I do?

Lately I've been having another issue with my hygrotherm. I'd like to keep the night temp (at least under the lamp) at 78 degrees, but when I flick through the screens to check the humidity it switches itself to 77 degrees (changing the night drop from 4 degrees to 5 degrees; from 82 degrees during the day). Why does it do this? It drives me nuts. I thought it supposed to stay programmed at whatever numbers you set it too.

[Jimbok3]

I just said ventilation is NOT restricted in any way. What more can I do?

Sorry forgot to say to use a small computer fan to increase the airflow, pushing the humid air out (I typed my response late last night lol).

[GrifTheGreat]

In the summer months when it is warmer moisture will evaporate from the substrate causing higher humidity levels and thus making the fogger not run as much. Also if your probe has become wet it will read higher.

You set the tolerance higher on the Hygrotherm so that the humidity can drop lower before the fogger kicks on.

Like Carlos said their are many factors causing high humidity spikes. The water source for the frog is also a major factor.

[Lija]

I'm with Carlos on this one, these are the steps that you need to take:
-check hydrotherm readings, meaning get digital hydrometer and check of hydrotherm sensor is working properly.
- where is your sensor located? it should be 2" above the substrate level and away from water dish and fogger hose.
- check humidity of your room, if it is over 80% you should get dehumidifier, it is not healthy for you too and for your house/apartment

[Pyxiefan001]

I'm with Carlos on this one, these are the steps that you need to take:
-check hydrotherm readings, meaning get digital hydrometer and check of hydrotherm sensor is working properly.
- where is your sensor located? it should be 2" above the substrate level and away from water dish and fogger hose.
- check humidity of your room, if it is over 80% you should get dehumidifier, it is not healthy for you too and for your house/apartment

Well I'm quite sure the room humidity is not the problem lol. The sensor was placed on ground level, figured that was best sense that's where Frog is all the time. Will move it up. Thanks.

[GrifTheGreat]

Well I'm quite sure the room humidity is not the problem lol. The sensor was placed on ground level, figured that was best sense that's where Frog is all the time. Will move it up. Thanks.

That is the problem. 1.5" to 2" above the substrate is the ideal location of the sensor for terrestrial frogs and toads. Nirmally located in the center of the back wall 2" above the substrate away from the fogger tube and water dish as Lija stated, but also away from the main heat source Like a UTH on the side of the tank.