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Hello,
I'm new to this site. I joined in hopes of finding out what kind of frog I have and if I am giving him the proper care. He was found and captured in the parking lot of an apartment complex. We made him a home in a 20 gallon tank with some artificial plants as well as live bamboo which we keep wet with fresh water and we feed him crickets from the pet store. My questions are: What kind of frog is he and am I giving him proper care, is there anything he needs that I haven't given him and this might sound silly but does he get lonely? Does he need a companion?
~Shelly~
Welcome Shelly.
I just wrote you an hour long post to answer your questions but lost signal in the boonies of NY when trying to send it and my phone did not save it. I will repost for you soon. Here is a small bit of info.
I think he is a Pacific Chorus frog. I'm not 100% positive, but pretty sure.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_Tree_Frog
Here is a nice care sheet...
http://www.frogforum.net/content/pac...orus-frog-127/
A couple of necessities for all pet frogs...
Use dechlorinated water or spring water for water bowl and to moisten substrate only. Avoid bottled drinking water and plain tap water because it has chlorine and chloramines which are toxic to frogs.
I would recommend changing the rocks to coconut fiber (Eco Earth) substrate or adding it to the top of the rocks. It will help to increase the humidity in the tank and because when the frogs eat they often dart at their prey quickly and could accidentally ingest a small rock, causing intestinal impaction and/or death.
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Required supplementation / dietary needs...
All captive frogs need calcium with vitamin D3 and a multivitamin to stay healthy. There are a few good brands to choose from. Supplements should be renewed every 3 months.
Calcium should be with vitamin D3 for proper absorption. It should be given every other day. Calcium prevents metabolic bone disease and assists in vital body functions.
Amphibian multivitamin supplement should be given one day a week, but not on the same day as the calcium, for proper absorption. The one exclusion is the Repashy brand, in which is formulated for daily dosing.
How to dust... Take a small pinch of the supplement and put it into a baggie or cup and gently shake, like the old shake-and-bake method, lol!The food should be just lightly dusted.
Food... Food items should be no larger than the distance between the frogs eyes. This is to ensure easy swallowing of the food. They are nocturnal so it is best to feed them just before bed, just as you're turning off their light(s).
Safe food... Crickets, cut earth worms/night crawlers, small dubia roaches. Avoid mealworms because the chitin in their segments can cause intestinal impaction and can lead to death.
Last edited by Heatheranne; June 3rd, 2013 at 05:04 PM.
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Housing...
Tree frogs live among the trees and love to perch within the branches and leaves. They enjoy sleeping on the underside of the foliage. Their homes should mimic their natural environments. Providing nice tall branches and tall plants or plants wound around the branches will make them happy. They will prefer live plants, but artificial plants with smooth safe edges are fine also. Live plants must be rinsed of all fertilizers and pesticides as they are toxic to amphibians. Taller terrariums/vivariums of 24" or higher are best. They will enjoy lots of foliage vs. minimal and will feel more secure with a few extra plants. A general rule for housing space is one average sized frog per 10 gallons of space.
Security...
To help them feel safe, provide plants, branches, and cover the back and 2 sides of the tank. This will make them feel safer and will lessen their stress. Less stress means happier, healthier frogs.
Last edited by Heatheranne; June 3rd, 2013 at 05:07 PM.
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Hello and welcome to FF Shelly! Heather did a great job answering your questions so I'll just say, have a nice week!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
Humidity...
It is very important to maintain the optimal humidity for each frog species. Doing so helps to maintain their health, prevents dehydration, assists in proper shedding, and helps them to regulate their electrolytes. This can be accomplished by manually misting or spraying the tank or by purchasing a fogger or automatic mister system. They can even be set on timers to make chores easier and to keep a more consistent reading. You will need a good humidity gauge for the tank.
Misting can be done with distilled water, spring water, or dechlorinated tap water. Distilled water is okay only for misting. Distilled water prevents water spots on the glass, which is nice, but cannot be used for soaking water or for moistening the substrate because it has no minerals or electrolytes in it and it actually draws electrolytes out of the frog if they soak in it.
Temperature...
Like humidity, all frogs have an optimal temperature range. Day time temps are generally a few degrees higher than night time temps. The subtle drop helps mimic their natural environment. Providing the proper heat will assist them in maintaining proper metabolism and with digestion. Too high of a temp can cause dehydration and electrolyte imbalances. Too low of a temp can slow their metabolism, decease their drive to eat, and make them lethargic. Too high and too low can weaken their immune systems and may lead to illness. It is best to place their temperature gauge at the level of their "trees" or most common living space.
Providing cooling...
Cooling a tank can be done by cooling the temp within the surrounds of your home, such as using air conditioning, but the tank should not be placed within a close direct path of the ac blower. Fans in the general vicinity of the tank are okay. Small computer fans can also be used on the screen top to one end to help cool the tank. Be sure to monitor the tanks humidity closely, as it will drop with adding a fan.
Heating a tank...
There are different options for heating a tank. You can use a UTH (Under Tank Heater) or terrarium heat pad place on an external side of the tank, a ceramic heat emitter bulb, a red heat bulb of 50 watts or less, or a black or blue night viewing heat bulb of 50 watts or less, or a combination of these options. Bulbs should be used in a dome lamp with a dimmer so you can adjust the level of heat or a canopy fixture. The heat bulbs will also lessen the humidity. You can also adjust the heat level by adjusting your room temp. I actually set an electric heater with a thermostat in my frogs' room. Of course, it depends on if you like a toasty room.
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Lighting...
Frogs need a day and night schedule as would be outdoors. In general, 12 hours day and 12 hours night. This can be done with light that enters a room naturally or by regulating light via bulbs. Frogs do not need UVB light if vitamin D3 is provided in their dietary supplements. However, if using live plants, different lighting will be needed for plant health. Keeping a routine and regular time for lights on and lights off will help keep them healthy.
Lighting for live plants....
DartEd has shared with me this great lighting article, so I will share it with you also (Thanks Ed!).
http://www.neherpetoculture.com/vivariumlighting101
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These are a few tips for all pet frog owners.
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Thank you Heather, for all of this wonderful information! I have learned a lot and will be headed to the pet store tomorrow with a big list!![]()
~Shelly~
You're welcome.
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