Hi,i live in puerto rico and here are some non'native bullfrog.If i found one i could keep it?
Sorry for the lack of replies.
If you do, you must be completely prepared to take care of it its whole life. You'll need a 30 gallon with at least a medium sized filter, if not a larger or canister filter, and eventually you'll need a 55-120 gallon tank.
Things you'll need:
- 30 gallon for when the frog is growing up, 55-70-90-100-120 gallon tank for when it is an adult.
- Strong filter, I personally suggest either a Canister filter or Fluval Underwater U series filter.
- Pond stones or a divider, make sure all stones are too big to be eaten, and if taken from outside, aren't sharp and are boiled for 5 minutes to remove any parasites/bacteria. Same goes for any plants or wood from the outside. If you use the divider, use coconut fiber or additive/fertilizer free topsoil.
- Aquarium background, preferably a forest one, that can cover the sides and back of the tank
- A STRONG lid. These guys jump high.
- Plastic bin with egg cartons and spinach/lettuce/carrots/ and bran/bread for crickets.
- Plastic tub/bucket for earthworms, filled with organic without fertilizer/additives topsoil.
- Fake or live plants. Fake water reeds work great, as well as fake lily pads. Simply place the cricket/earthworm on the fake lily pad and let your frog eat it.
- Driftwood can help greatly and provide cover. You can ramp it up against the stones too to make a land zone. Just make sure it is VERY THOROUGHLY washed if it is store-bought or from the sea.
- Aquarium water conditioner.
- Calcium + Vitamin D3 powder and Multi-vitamin powder for crickets.
- 3 spare buckets to help with water changes.
- 2-3 4Liter empty milk/water jugs to measure conditioned water with.
Feeding: Feed crickets the same size as the space between the frogs mouth. Dust with a calcium mix every other day for growing frogs and a multivitamin once a week. I strongly suggest you also feed him earthworms/nightcrawlers. They're easy to digest and so much more nutritious than crickets. Do not be lazy on the dusting! I was, and I'm still treating my Green frog (Rana Clamitans) for a double case of Giardia/Tetany.
Water/filter: In the first few weeks of getting the new filter, do 25% water changes daily. As the bio-filter boots up, you can do 50% water changes every week. As for the level of water, I suggest 2-3 inches. Make sure there is somewhere the frog can sit and be relatively dry, or at least out of the water.
One very important factor is that your frog may have a disease, such as Red leg or Chytrid. If he/she does, you must quarantine them and take extreme measures to prevent it from infecting the rest of your amphibians.
I think I've covered most of the major points. Please correct me if I haven't.
It may sound like a massive challenge, but it is not impossible and the results are very rewarding.
My Amphibians:
1.0.0 Rana Catesbiana (Bumpy Digtoad )
1.0.0 Pseudacris Regilla (Levi )
1.1.0 Ambystoma Macrodactylum (Urtham and Gargan )
2.2.0 Bombina Orientalis ( Rosa, Sasha, Aleksis, and Dimitri )
Rest in Peace, Gnag the Nameless, Chrome, and Thermidor
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