Care Sheet: Budgett's Frog

[Sandy Bear]

Species Scientific Name: Lepidobatrachus laevis

Common Name: Budgett's Frog


Similar Species: Dwarf Budgett's Frog (Lepidobatrachus llanensis); Freddy Kreuger Frog (Lepidobatrachus laevis x Lepidobatrachus llanensis); (Lepidobatrachus asper)

Enclosure size: 15-20 gallon or larger tank; (18-Cube Exoterra or larger)

Substrate: Do not use aquarium pebbles. Do not use river stones that are able to fit in the frogs mouth. The frog may eat pebbles or stones and can become impacted from this. A bare bottom tank is best with about 4-6 inches of de-chlorinated tap water. A “turtle dock” or large stone can be provided if the frog decides to emerge.

Temps: 78-85 degrees

Humidity: N/A

Lighting: Incandescent and UVB fluorescent – optional. Use a timer to provide a proper 12-hour day/night cycle.

Diet: Juveniles feed daily, they will only eat if they are hungry, but offer them food anyways. Adults 2-3 times a week. Feed a variety of insects (crickets, Dubia, wax worms, butter worms, night crawlers) and live bearing fish (Mollies and Platies make the best feeders – stay away from goldfish). Gut-loading and dusting prey is recommend (although dusting will be difficult due to the underwater feedings).
Live rodents may be offered twice a year as a treat only.

*Be cautious of fish feeders that you do not breed yourself at home. Many fish diseases and parasites are transferable to amphibians. Also, many feeder fish are grown in large outdoor pools. Invasive species like bullfrogs have been known to live and breed in these pools. Chytrid Fungus can be transferred to your pet and Chytrid can live for three months without an amphibious host to feed on.


Water: De-chlorinate water with amphibian safe products such as “Prime”, “Reptisafe” and “AmQuel”. PH should be neutral (7.0). Be aware of new drift wood, it may make the water too acidic, so keep an eye on that if using real drift wood.

Life span: 10-20+ years

Average Adult Sizes For Both Sexes:
Males 3 1/2 - 4 inches (9 cm) SVL
Females 4 1/2 - 6 inches (15cm) SVL

Supplements: Calcium, Calcium with D3, Vitamin & Mineral Supplements

Sexing: Females of the species can grow to 4.5 to 6 inches SVL and will be the larger of the two sexes. Males can grow 3 1/2 to 4 inches SVL (Snout to Vent Length) when mature. Males will also develop a darker colored throat with loose skin, which is caused by their calling. Females will have a lighter grey-white colored throat.

Diurnal or Nocturnal: Both


Tank Maintenance: A filter should be used and complete water changes should be done every week. Without a filter, water changes should be done daily, and after the frog has soiled the water. The tank should be taken apart and cleaned with hot water every month. Do not use soap or other chemicals.


Aestivation: Aestivation normally occurs between the months of October to February. Make sure that your Budgett's Frog is very well fed prior to aestivation time. You also want to make sure that he has passed through all the food in his system before putting him down to aestivate. Budgett's Frogs can die if there is food left rotting in their gut during aestivation.

The aestivation set up can be a spare fish tank or a large bucket. Be sure to allow for 8-12 inches of dry coco-fiber substrate in the aestivation chamber. A water dish should be placed on top of the substrate in case your Budgett's Frog emerges from aestivation early.

Remove the Budgett's frog from his water home and place him in the dry aestivation tank. He will instinctively start to burrow down to the bottom of the container, and his skin will shed and form a protective cocoon encasing his body. Aestivation will last for a couple of months, and can last as long as 9 months.

To awaken the Budgett's frog from his slumber, you will start to moisten the coco-fiber until it is very wet. At this point the Budgett's frog will leave his cocoon and emerge.

This process should be done every year. It is rumored that Budgett's Frogs that are not aestivated, can suffer from respiratory infections.


Social Structure: These frogs should be kept singly. If kept in groups, all the frogs should be of the same size. These frogs are very cannibalistic so be careful!
Never mix different species of frogs in the same terrarium.


Handling: Frogs should never be handled unless absolutely necessary. Frogs are ornamental like fish. An appropriate sized fish net should be used when removing the Budgett's frog from his enclosure. Be careful of fingers near your Budgett's frog during feeding. A bite from and adult can be quite painful.


Shopping List:

Home:

• A 15 or 20 gallon aquarium or larger (Or 18-Cube Exoterra or larger terrarium)
• Screen Top (for an aquarium)
• Terrarium Filter (ex: Tetrafauna Decorative ReptoFilter)
• Appropriate Live plants (aquatic or semi aquatic)
• Thermometer
• Water De-chlorinator (Prime, AmQuel, or Reptisafe)
• A water siphon
• A “Turtle Dock”, should the frog need to emerge

Aestivation Home:

• Large bucket (4-5 gallon) or spare aquarium
• Coco-fiber
• Water Dish

Heating & Lighting:

• Submersible aquarium heater (if needed)
• Fluorescent tube and fixture and/or UVB bulb and fixture

Food:

• Appropriate sized live Crickets, Wax Worms, Butter Worms, Dubai Roaches, Red Wrigglers, Nightcrawlers
• Appropriate sized live feeder fish, Mollies, Platties or guppies (no goldfish)
• Appropriate sized live rodents (only twice a year!)
• Cricket keeper
• Cricket food and water gel
• Calcium Dusting Powder
• Calcium with D3 Dusting Powder
• Vitamin & Mineral Dusting Powder

Extras:

• Find an exotics vet that can see your frog
• Frog Books or Magazines
• Join a Frog Forum:
  
  • http://talkto.thefrog.org/
  • http://www.frogforum.net/forum/
  • Fat Frogs Forums Forums
  • http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/
  
  

[Bombina Bob]

Very accurate care sheet, i agree comepletly with everything here!

[Mentat]

Hello Sandy! Did you know there is a section for posting care sheets and from there they could be added permanently to care sheet article section: Care Sheet Proposals? Have a nice day and thanks for information !

[GrifTheGreat]

Hello Sandy! Did you know there is a section for posting care sheets and from there they could be added permanently to care sheet article section: Care Sheet Proposals? Have a nice day and thanks for information !

I made it into a sticky Carlos so it would remain at the top of the page and so I can go over it. I'm going to submit it to John and see if he approves.

[Sandy Bear]

I have a few other care sheets that I would like to submit as well, should I post them in the forums, or in the proposal section that Carlos suggested?

[GrifTheGreat]

I have a few other care sheets that I would like to submit as well, should I post them in the forums, or in the proposal section that Carlos suggested?

Go ahead and post them in the proposal section and I'll PM John about them.

[Namio]

Hi Sandy,
Since Ca/vitamin dusting is virtually impossible underwater so how would you get around that? Is there a way to get them to feed on land?
Thanks!

[Sandy Bear]

Adding supplements to a Budgett's frog diet is not impossible, just requires a little more effort.

If your frog is an eager feeder and jumps out of the water for his dinner, tong feeding dusted prey won't be a hassle

If your frog is a little more fussy, you may want to ask your vet for some syringes and inject the prey with the supplements prior to feeding him. I had to do this with medication for a frog that was sick one time.

Exoterra also makes a water conditioner that has calcium supplement added to it.

[Namio]

Adding supplements to a Budgett's frog diet is not impossible, just requires a little more effort.

If your frog is an eager feeder and jumps out of the water for his dinner, tong feeding dusted prey won't be a hassle

If your frog is a little more fussy, you may want to ask your vet for some syringes and inject the prey with the supplements prior to feeding him. I had to do this with medication for a frog that was sick one time.

Exoterra also makes a water conditioner that has calcium supplement added to it.

Thanks for the response, Sandy. I feel silly now because you reminded me of a simpler solution that I totally blanked out on: simply gut load the crickets with the yellow Calcium Gel from Fluker (do not have a water source available, this will force the crickets to eat the gel for hydration), then feed the crickets to the frog. The crickets can now be fed underwater without losing any Calcium that they obtained (as oppose to Calcium dusting the cricket).

[Sandy Bear]

No need to feel silly, there is always different ways to do things. If you learn something new that can help improve what you are doing, that's all that matters.

[Bombina Bob]

One way to add calcium to feeders is to gut load the feeders with calcium dusted
vegitables and dried foods before they eat it, ive been doing this with my crickets
for a while now. and im just wondering, Can Budgett's frogs have a half and half
setup? or do they prefer aquatic setup?

[Namio]

One way to add calcium to feeders is to gut load the feeders with calcium dusted
vegitables and dried foods before they eat it, ive been doing this with my crickets
for a while now. and im just wondering, Can Budgett's frogs have a half and half
setup? or do they prefer aquatic setup?

That is another great idea you have. However, if you do not want to deal with moldy vegies, though, I would suggest using the Fluker's high Calcium cricket diet and Calcium fortified cricket quencher. These one-two punch combo should gutload enough Calcium in crickets.

With the semiaquatic setup, from my understanding, is optional and unnecessary. A captive Budgett's frog will likely stay in water the whole time as long as they have enough water available. They do have the ability to travel on land, but I think they prefer not to unless they have to.

[ElfDa]

I recently read that they do better with semiaquatic setups.

But I'm always suspicious of pet manuals.

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[GrifTheGreat]

I recently read that they do better with semiaquatic setups.

But I'm always suspicious of pet manuals.

Sent from my Coolpad Flo using Tapatalk

The Dwarf species prefers a semi aquatic life more than the larger species. Most are kept on fully aquatic set ups unless being prepared for aestivation.

[ElfDa]

The Dwarf species prefers a semi aquatic life more than the larger species. Most are kept on fully aquatic set ups unless being prepared for aestivation.

Ah, I see! Thanks for the clarification.

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