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Thread: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

  1. #1
    Katymcduk
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    Exclamation Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Hi, I am new to keeping any kind of pet that you keep in a vivarium. A few days ago I bought 2 baby milk frogs (Darrell and Greg) along with a basic start up vivarium (12x12x24) with a corner artificial plant, water bowl and trunk/cave and heat lamp.

    I have two problems which may be related but worry me:

    #1 They hardly move. It took them 24 hours to move a leg in the first day of getting them. Now that they have moved (When ever we aren't in the room) they stay to the top of the tank.
    #2 I'm worried that the humidity of my vivarium isn't right. I thought that with the comber-nation of my misting everyday and the heat lamp would create a misty window kind of effect but it dry s out within minutes of me misting. Is this too dry? too hot? not hot enough - Is this why they are at the top of the tank?

    I would be so grateful for any help I can get toward creating the perfect environment for my little friends
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  3. #2
    100+ Post Member tinkgirl77's Avatar
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    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Hello and welcome to frog forum. First off, do you have a thermometer and hygrometer?

    Also I am going to attach some questions that will help everyone to solve your lil guys issues.
    Please answer them as soon as possible so when the milk frog keepers stop by they have all the necessary info already.

    So again. Welcome to frog forum!

    .:* Lisa *:.
    laissez le bon temps roulet! :-)

    1.2.2 Agalychnis calidryas - Felix Felicis, Wall-E,Eva, Mike & Sull
    0.0.2 Canis lupus familiaris (Italian greyhounds) - Zaffira & Aurora
    1.0.0 My own personal prince charming (husband edition): Beau



  4. #3
    100+ Post Member tinkgirl77's Avatar
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    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by flybyferns View Post
    Could this be a sticky ? (of formatted questions)

    GrifTheGreat and I ( flybyferns) threw this list of questions together one day.
    When done-- we had a final list of questions to help "move things along" and save a lot of typing when trying to help a FF member and their frog.

    The reason I titled the new thread, at the time , "I whish I had a sticky" was because they were questions that I had typed over and over and over that day when trying to help FF members.

    I see members going back to this thread !!!! ----cutting and pasting the questions--then answering them in a NEW thread!
    It's quite helpful ! It is also a great teaching aid , as the it helps to begin to prioritize the most important information for the care of their particular frog when posted in the proper forum area.


    Trouble in the enclosure or a frog is sick ?
    It is great that one seeks advice ! After all, that's why we are here !!!
    There actually may be nothing wrong , or conversely, a change in behavior warrants keeping a close eye on your froggy friend !

    1-size of enclosure
    2-# on inhabitants - specifically ( if there is another frog ---size differences ?)
    3-humidity
    4-temp
    5-water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
    6-materials used for substrate
    7-enclosure set up i.e. plants( live or artificial) wood, bark etc -how were things prepared prior to being put into the viv
    8-main food source
    9-vitamins and calcium ? ( how often )
    10-lighting
    11-what is, specifically, being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
    12-when is the last time he ate
    13-have you found poop lately
    14-a pic would be great ( including the frog ) any little cell phone pic is fine
    15- how old is the frog
    16-how long have you owned him
    17- is the frog wild caught or captive bred
    18- frog food- how often and if its diverse what other feeders are used as treats
    19- about how often the frog is handled
    20-is the enclosure is kept in a high or low traffic area
    21- describe enclosure maintenance ( water changes, cleaning etc)


    Lynn
    .:* Lisa *:.
    laissez le bon temps roulet! :-)

    1.2.2 Agalychnis calidryas - Felix Felicis, Wall-E,Eva, Mike & Sull
    0.0.2 Canis lupus familiaris (Italian greyhounds) - Zaffira & Aurora
    1.0.0 My own personal prince charming (husband edition): Beau



  5. #4
    Katymcduk
    Guest

    Default Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Of course, ask away. With the Easter weekend being a pain with deliveries I ordered them but have yet to get them. I also have a meshed topped vivarium if this helps, I currently have this covered to try and keep the heat in.

  6. #5
    Katymcduk
    Guest

    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    1. As stated 12x12x24 inch vivarium (Eco Terra Mini Tall)
    2. 2 Baby milk frogs, unsure of age but only 2cm small if that helps.
    3. unsure of humidity levels until delivery of hydrometer
    4. The temp is at 63
    5. Water used for misting and bathing is warm tap water.
    6. Substrate is Coco Coir Fibre Brick by Monkfield
    7. artificial small bark with artificial plants coming down from corner ( Will at attach picture) The lady at the shop said they were sterilised before putting in.
    8. Main food source is 2nd brown crickets. watered daily with water gel and bug grub.
    9. multi vitamins onto 2nd brown crickets before put into viv.
    10.Lighting is exo terra25w compact top canopy turned off at night and turned back on in the morning.
    11.I have a dialled thermometer telling the temp at the moment.
    12. Feeding wise, I have had them for 3 days tops and I have put 6 crickets in there (only 3 are visible, but im unsure if they have been eaten or hiding as havent seen the frogs move.
    13.No poop that I can see. ( I would assume that it would be obvious)
    14. photo will be added bellow
    15. Not sure how old, been told it is still a baby
    16. Owned them for 3 days
    17. Captive bred
    18. Have only been feeding them the brown crickets covered in multi vitamins.
    19. I have yet to handle the frog as was told not to by the lady at the pet shop
    20. The viv is kept in the living room in between the kitchen and sofa. Not much movement directly in front of it but is in the main living area.
    21. I have changed it water every other day and was told by the shop that i would know when to change it as it would smell

    The assistance was as useful as a chocolate fire guard so would like all the help I can
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  7. #6
    100+ Post Member tinkgirl77's Avatar
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    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Thanks for the quick response. I will try to help as much as I can with a focus on frog husbandry basics since I do not keep milk frogs myself. I'm also sending a message to Heatheranne...she is a moderator, wonderful person, milk frog keeper and she is extremely knowledgeable. Hopefully we will have more ppl chime in.

    At quick glance, I do see an issue or two.

    First off, the water you use should be dechlorinated using something like exoterra aquatize or zoomed reptisafe. Also distilled water is great for misting and doesn't leave mineral deposits on the glass. soaking dishes should always be dechlorinated water. All water in dishes should be changed daily. Also, what are you using to cover the screen to help keep moisture in? I am a little concerned about the humidity because you haven't received your hygrometer yet.
    I hope this helps. Im going to look through your answers closer in a few minutes.
    .:* Lisa *:.
    laissez le bon temps roulet! :-)

    1.2.2 Agalychnis calidryas - Felix Felicis, Wall-E,Eva, Mike & Sull
    0.0.2 Canis lupus familiaris (Italian greyhounds) - Zaffira & Aurora
    1.0.0 My own personal prince charming (husband edition): Beau



  8. #7
    Katymcduk
    Guest

    Default Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    I've covered it with a towel for the moment as I'd read somewhere that that was the best way to keep in the humidity with a mesh topped vivarium. Will I be able to get the specialised water from a pets shop or will I have to order it online. I'm getting worried that I will have to wait for all these things to be delivered and it won't be enough time!

  9. #8
    100+ Post Member tinkgirl77's Avatar
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    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    3. unsure of humidity levels until delivery of hydrometer:
    4. The temp is at 63 This is definitly too cold temps should range in the mid 70s F
    5. Water used for misting and bathing is warm tap water. Can use bottled spring water (should be able to buy from grocery or pharmacy or buy a dechlorinator from your local petshop
    8. Main food source is 2nd brown crickets. watered daily with water gel and bug grub. How big are the crickets?
    18. Have only been feeding them the brown crickets covered in multi vitamins. Should also be dusting with calcium with D3, can be ordered on-line or purchased at most pet shops (not too sure about UK tho)
    19. I have yet to handle the frog as was told not to by the lady at the pet shop Very good, if handling HAS to be done, use vinyl powderless exam gloves, rinsed with dechlorinated water.
    20. The viv is kept in the living room in between the kitchen and sofa. Not much movement directly in front of it but is in the main living area. Maybe cover the back three sides with something to make them feel more secure
    21. I have changed it water every other day and was told by the shop that i would know when to change it as it would smell Change everyday with dechlorinated water.

    Check these care sheets out:
    http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2012/07/amazon-milk-frog-care-sheet/

    http://pollywog.co.uk/component/content/article/36-care-sheets/190-amazon-milk-frog-trachycephalus-resinifictrix.html

    http://www.zoo-logic.co.uk/amazonmilkfrogs.html

    1.2.2 Agalychnis calidryas - Felix Felicis, Wall-E,Eva, Mike & Sull
    0.0.2 Canis lupus familiaris (Italian greyhounds) - Zaffira & Aurora
    1.0.0 My own personal prince charming (husband edition): Beau



  10. #9
    Katymcduk
    Guest

    Default Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    The crickets are a cm on average in size. Should I remove the towel off the top? How can I make the temperature go up with a mesh top? Sorry about all the questions I just want to get everything right

  11. #10
    100+ Post Member tinkgirl77's Avatar
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    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    To add heat you may need an under the tank heat mat, mounted to the side of the tank. Most pet shop s in us carry them and hopefully in uk as well.

    For humidity, the towel is probably not going to keep it in well enough. Some members on here have used saran wrap under the lid over the top of the tank and then put the lid back over it.


    I hope I've been somewhat helpful.
    .:* Lisa *:.
    laissez le bon temps roulet! :-)

    1.2.2 Agalychnis calidryas - Felix Felicis, Wall-E,Eva, Mike & Sull
    0.0.2 Canis lupus familiaris (Italian greyhounds) - Zaffira & Aurora
    1.0.0 My own personal prince charming (husband edition): Beau



  12. #11
    Katymcduk
    Guest

    Default Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Thank you so much for your help and all yours answers. It really is appreciated

  13. This member thanks Katymcduk for this post:


  14. #12
    100+ Post Member tinkgirl77's Avatar
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    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Wish I could help more but. The experts I'm sure will chime in soon.

    .:* Lisa *:.
    laissez le bon temps roulet! :-)

    1.2.2 Agalychnis calidryas - Felix Felicis, Wall-E,Eva, Mike & Sull
    0.0.2 Canis lupus familiaris (Italian greyhounds) - Zaffira & Aurora
    1.0.0 My own personal prince charming (husband edition): Beau



  15. #13
    Super Moderator Heatheranne's Avatar
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    Default Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Hi! Welcome to the forum .

    You've gotten some great advice by Lisa!

    Cover 3/4 of the top screen with either Saran Wrap or foil. This will help to keep in humidity. Adding live plants also helps to hold moisture in. Their humidity should be in the mid to upper 70's.

    You may have to mist the tank more often or get a fogger. You'll definitely need a hygrometer to monitor the levels. You can mist the tank with distilled water if you don't want mineral spots on your glass. You can also non-chlorinated spring water or dechlorinated tap water. Never use straight tap water or bottled drinking water. Chlorine is toxic to frogs.

    As noted, never use water with chlorine in it. Use only spring water or dechlorinated water for the water bowl and for moistening the substrate. Do not use distilled water for these either. Distilled water lacks trace minerals and actually pulls electrolytes out of the frogs if they soak in it.

    A pothos plant (Epipremnum aureum) is a great starter plant. It grows nice and tall and tree frogs love to climb in them and perch on the beaches and leaves. They often sleep on the leaves. It is not necessary, but they would love it and it would help to keep the moisture up.

    You could also add more fake plants. They will help hold more moisture in too by holding several droplets. Be sure all plants have smooth edges. Rinse in dechlorinated or spring water to remove dust and any possible mites before adding them to their home.

    All live plants must be rinsed of all fertilizers and dirt. Rinse them until there is nothing left on the but the leaves, stems, and roots. Replant them in coconut fiber bedding or plain, unfertilized plantation soil. Fertilizer is also toxic to frogs. You may want to plant them in a pot with a smooth rounded plant climbing post. A dried curved bamboo post works great for this. You can gently wind the stems right up around it. Rinse again in dechlorinated water and only water the plant with dechlorinated tap water or spring water.

    Adding a tall plant will make them feel more at home. They may be climbing high in the glass as they would on a plant. It is okay that they are on the glass, but if you had a tall plant for them, they'd more likely be in the plant. Tree frogs like to climb high .

    You can also provide branches or vines to climb on. Anything brought in from outdoors must be thoroughly rinsed. Baking branches at 350'F in the oven for 30 minutes will kill off most insects that may be lurking in the branches.

    There is also a bleaching method, but you'll need the dechlorinator solution to use this method.

    Many pet stores that sell amphibians and reptiles will have artificial vines you can use too.

    As Lisa has mentioned, covering the back and 2 sides of the tank with a background will help them to feel more safe. You would only have to do the sides. You can use anything from brown paper bag, to craft or construction paper, fabric, aquarium background designs, etc. they would most prefer something that looks like trees and leaves, but anything will help.

    For heat, you can add the UTH heat pad or a use a heat lamp with a dimmer and a red heat bulb or ceramic black heat emitter. Start at the lowest setting and slowly turn up until you reach the desired temp. You will need a thermometer gauze to monitor the temp in the tank. Heat lamps and heat emitters will cause some drying in the tank. The heat pad may be better.

    I use different heat sources for different tanks, depending on the type of frog in the tank and that frog's needs. My dart frog tank is a 12x12x18" quarantine tank that I use a small heat pad on the side. It keeps the temps in the 70's with my home furnace set at 73'F. The heat pads come in different sizes. A medium heat pad work work nicely for that size tank. I have found varying ranges of proper temp for them from 70-85'F. I would keep the range in the middle around 75-80'F daytime and a few degrees less at night.

    Your babies are tiny yet. If the crickets are not as small as or smaller than the distance between their eyes, I would get some flightless fruit flies. Feed daily and remove any uneaten insects they do not eat. Bowl feeding works well for this. You can use a smooth edged glass bowl to keep their crickets in. Fruit flies are harder to keep in the tank. You can slide the screen lid into a nylon and replace the lid. Be sure to lift and lighting or heat lamps up off of any nylon or Saran Wrap on top of the tank. At there size I would definitely recommend some fruit flies until they grow a little.

    Supplements: Calcium with vitamin D3 is needed. Without it, your frogs can develop metabolic bone disease and will develop illness, tetany and death. It is a powdered supplement. Lightly dust the bugs every other day with the calcium. Using a punch in a baggie or cup works well. Use the multivitamin powder one day a week as a dusting, but not on the same day as the calcium. Be sure the calcium has vitamin D3 in it for proper absorption.

    Congrats on your new babies! They are adorable! . If you keep them nice and warm, moist, feeling secure, and give them some more nice things to climb and hide in they should be happy and should start eating for you .

    Oh! You may want to try using plain paper towels as substrate for a few weeks until you know if they're eating and pooping. It's easier to watch for feces. Change the paper towels daily.

    Read around for some posts and you'll learn lots!

    Again, welcome .
    https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203589094112277&id=1363241107&set =a.1434844115446.2055312.1363241107&source=11&ref= bookmark

  16. #14
    guilletto
    Guest

    Default Re: Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    Hi! I'm gonna have a milk frog too, and I got a dude. For misting I must use dechlorated water, but for bowl, Can I use mineral water from supermarket ? Thnks!
    Quote Originally Posted by Heatheranne View Post
    Hi! Welcome to the forum .

    You've gotten some great advice by Lisa!

    Cover 3/4 of the top screen with either Saran Wrap or foil. This will help to keep in humidity. Adding live plants also helps to hold moisture in. Their humidity should be in the mid to upper 70's.

    You may have to mist the tank more often or get a fogger. You'll definitely need a hygrometer to monitor the levels. You can mist the tank with distilled water if you don't want mineral spots on your glass. You can also non-chlorinated spring water or dechlorinated tap water. Never use straight tap water or bottled drinking water. Chlorine is toxic to frogs.

    As noted, never use water with chlorine in it. Use only spring water or dechlorinated water for the water bowl and for moistening the substrate. Do not use distilled water for these either. Distilled water lacks trace minerals and actually pulls electrolytes out of the frogs if they soak in it.

    A pothos plant (Epipremnum aureum) is a great starter plant. It grows nice and tall and tree frogs love to climb in them and perch on the beaches and leaves. They often sleep on the leaves. It is not necessary, but they would love it and it would help to keep the moisture up.

    You could also add more fake plants. They will help hold more moisture in too by holding several droplets. Be sure all plants have smooth edges. Rinse in dechlorinated or spring water to remove dust and any possible mites before adding them to their home.

    All live plants must be rinsed of all fertilizers and dirt. Rinse them until there is nothing left on the but the leaves, stems, and roots. Replant them in coconut fiber bedding or plain, unfertilized plantation soil. Fertilizer is also toxic to frogs. You may want to plant them in a pot with a smooth rounded plant climbing post. A dried curved bamboo post works great for this. You can gently wind the stems right up around it. Rinse again in dechlorinated water and only water the plant with dechlorinated tap water or spring water.

    Adding a tall plant will make them feel more at home. They may be climbing high in the glass as they would on a plant. It is okay that they are on the glass, but if you had a tall plant for them, they'd more likely be in the plant. Tree frogs like to climb high .

    You can also provide branches or vines to climb on. Anything brought in from outdoors must be thoroughly rinsed. Baking branches at 350'F in the oven for 30 minutes will kill off most insects that may be lurking in the branches.

    There is also a bleaching method, but you'll need the dechlorinator solution to use this method.

    Many pet stores that sell amphibians and reptiles will have artificial vines you can use too.

    As Lisa has mentioned, covering the back and 2 sides of the tank with a background will help them to feel more safe. You would only have to do the sides. You can use anything from brown paper bag, to craft or construction paper, fabric, aquarium background designs, etc. they would most prefer something that looks like trees and leaves, but anything will help.

    For heat, you can add the UTH heat pad or a use a heat lamp with a dimmer and a red heat bulb or ceramic black heat emitter. Start at the lowest setting and slowly turn up until you reach the desired temp. You will need a thermometer gauze to monitor the temp in the tank. Heat lamps and heat emitters will cause some drying in the tank. The heat pad may be better.

    I use different heat sources for different tanks, depending on the type of frog in the tank and that frog's needs. My dart frog tank is a 12x12x18" quarantine tank that I use a small heat pad on the side. It keeps the temps in the 70's with my home furnace set at 73'F. The heat pads come in different sizes. A medium heat pad work work nicely for that size tank. I have found varying ranges of proper temp for them from 70-85'F. I would keep the range in the middle around 75-80'F daytime and a few degrees less at night.

    Your babies are tiny yet. If the crickets are not as small as or smaller than the distance between their eyes, I would get some flightless fruit flies. Feed daily and remove any uneaten insects they do not eat. Bowl feeding works well for this. You can use a smooth edged glass bowl to keep their crickets in. Fruit flies are harder to keep in the tank. You can slide the screen lid into a nylon and replace the lid. Be sure to lift and lighting or heat lamps up off of any nylon or Saran Wrap on top of the tank. At there size I would definitely recommend some fruit flies until they grow a little.

    Supplements: Calcium with vitamin D3 is needed. Without it, your frogs can develop metabolic bone disease and will develop illness, tetany and death. It is a powdered supplement. Lightly dust the bugs every other day with the calcium. Using a punch in a baggie or cup works well. Use the multivitamin powder one day a week as a dusting, but not on the same day as the calcium. Be sure the calcium has vitamin D3 in it for proper absorption.

    Congrats on your new babies! They are adorable! . If you keep them nice and warm, moist, feeling secure, and give them some more nice things to climb and hide in they should be happy and should start eating for you .

    Oh! You may want to try using plain paper towels as substrate for a few weeks until you know if they're eating and pooping. It's easier to watch for feces. Change the paper towels daily.

    Read around for some posts and you'll learn lots!

    Again, welcome .

  17. #15
    Super Moderator Heatheranne's Avatar
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    Default Milk Frog Vivarium to dry??? HELP!!!!

    You can use spring water. It will say spring water on the container.
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