Heating concern. . .AGAIN!

[Instinct101]

I know I've made queries to this time and time again, especially given the season but this is really frustrating me.

How can I reliably keep my pyxie warm in the winter?

I use an infrared 50W bulb during the day and am currently using one of those 75W night glo lights from Wal-Mart (only thing I could at this time of night) in a spare dimmer lamp. I hate having two lamps on lop of a metal screen top (most of its covered with plastic wrap to help with humidity), but I have tried heat cable and a heat mat (rated for 10-20 gallons, for my 15 gal long) and I really don't think getting a bigger mat will help. I have never understood how people get the desired temps with those things, they hardly give off any heat except right the things themselves, by sticking them to the walls. And heat cable, although tapable in a variety of ways, is in the same boat.

Was thinking of getting a night bulb of a lower wattage whenever I got the chance tomorrow, as much as I hate having TWO lamps on even at different times (day and night, rigged with timers).

Current in-tank temps never drop below 70 at night, and I'm not sure what my girl is even making of my efforts anyway seeing as she's been completely buried (all the way to the bottom even) ever since late February. I was planning to attempt to awaken her with warm water come April, or whenever the nights get warm enough that the temp in the room itself stays in the mid 70s.

And what exactly counts as aevistation anyway? It's my understanding they aevistate when things get too dry, but she went down when the substrate was well moist and the temps in the mid to high 80s. If she's. . .sleeping beneath relatively cool, moist substrate, what is that?

[KrTreefrog2]

I have a 40 gallon 36"x18" tank, and I use a Zoo Med Mini Double Dome fixture (Amazon.com: Zoo Med Mini Combo Deep Dome Lamp Fixture, Black: Pet Supplies) in conjuntion with a Hydrofarm thermostat (Amazon.com: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats: Patio, Lawn & Garden). The great thing about this setup is that you can put a basking light in one fixture and a ceramic heat emitter in the other (60 watt and under for this specific fixture). Each dome has its own cord and on/off switch, which is handy. You can plug the basking light into a timer to simulate day/night cycles, and plug the ceramic heat emitter into the thermostat. The thermostat has a small temperature probe that goes into the tank and turns on your heater as needed to keep temperatures steady. With the basking light on, the heat emitter shouldn't have to kick on much during the day, but when the basking light goes off at night and the temperature starts to drop, the heat emitter will take over to keep the tank at proper temperatures.

[coastal20]

I use 5 foot of 3 inch heat tape on the inside of my 50 gal Rubbermaid bin with an ecozone controller(a simple dimmer would do) and it keeps the cage between 80 and 85. I also have 2 foot of 12 inch heat tape that keeps my roaches at 100 constantly in a 20 gal Rubbermaid bin.

[Lija]

I know I've made queries to this time and time again, especially given the season but this is really frustrating me.

How can I reliably keep my pyxie warm in the winter?

I use an infrared 50W bulb during the day and am currently using one of those 75W night glo lights from Wal-Mart (only thing I could at this time of night) in a spare dimmer lamp. I hate having two lamps on lop of a metal screen top (most of its covered with plastic wrap to help with humidity), but I have tried heat cable and a heat mat (rated for 10-20 gallons, for my 15 gal long) and I really don't think getting a bigger mat will help. I have never understood how people get the desired temps with those things, they hardly give off any heat except right the things themselves, by sticking them to the walls. And heat cable, although tapable in a variety of ways, is in the same boat.

Was thinking of getting a night bulb of a lower wattage whenever I got the chance tomorrow, as much as I hate having TWO lamps on even at different times (day and night, rigged with timers).

Current in-tank temps never drop below 70 at night, and I'm not sure what my girl is even making of my efforts anyway seeing as she's been completely buried (all the way to the bottom even) ever since late February. I was planning to attempt to awaken her with warm water come April, or whenever the nights get warm enough that the temp in the room itself stays in the mid 70s.

And what exactly counts as aevistation anyway? It's my understanding they aevistate when things get too dry, but she went down when the substrate was well moist and the temps in the mid to high 80s. If she's. . .sleeping beneath relatively cool, moist substrate, what is that?

that is what i do in order to live stress over temps/humidity free.:
1. UTH never worked for me to the extend i need, so I'm using either heat cables ( for snakes/geckos mostly) and for frogs I'm using infrared lights ( 50W or 75W) depending on a tank for day and night that light doesn't disturb day/night cycle. I'm planning on switching to flexiwatt tape soon though, it is more energy saving.
2. humidity - fogger for all tanks that need it, modified regular ultrasonic home humidifiers mostly, i have one zoomed fogger, but hate it passionately lol
3. everything mentioned in 1 and 2 plugged into Hydrotherms
on my pixie tank i have 2 lamps - UVB for create day/night cycle and infrared for heat. that is it and i never think if my temps are too low or too high or too anything, hydrotherm does it for me, temps are always were they need to be day or night, same with humidity, although i still misting tanks, substrate tends to dry out anyway, it is 10-20% humidity in our house when the heating in on.