Help a new frog owner out

[clydefrogmom]

Our baby pacman frog is not eating..we took him to the vet...got some things moving but now I'm so confused on what to use for his flooring. The vet spoke so fast and said use moss not coco fiber stuff. But now my frog looks so unhappy...thankfully the syringe feeding is better and the adjustment in lighting is helping. But the floor now is bare with just a bit of moss. Something was irritating him from before I cleaned out the tank and I swear the vet said it was the coco fiber. But all I read is that what you use? Clyde was happy and hopping at the vet on just a towel, would that be something for his flooring? If he truly seems to not like the moss or the fiber stuff

[DVirginiana]

Sounds like your vet doesn't know much about frogs. First of all, answer the questions in the Trouble in the Enclosure sticky. I imagine your temperature and humidity are probably a little off. That can cause them to act funny and get sick.

What does the vet have you syringe-feeding him? It's good that you're getting food into him, but stress can be a huge problem for frogs, and force-feeding is very stressful on them. Hopefully you can get him eating normally soon.

Coco-fiber is actually the recommended bedding for pacman frogs. Unless you feed in a separate container (which I don't recommend for skittish or stressed out frogs, as it just stresses them more) moss is a bad substrate. It can and will be accidentally eaten when the frog strikes, and this can cause impaction. No need to rush and change it as long as you're syringe feeding, but coco-fiber works best.
Moist paper towels (soaked in treated water) are fine, but just out of curiosity what is he doing that makes you think he dislikes coco fiber or moss? They enjoy burrowing, and a happy, healthy pacman frog will often sit in the same spot without moving for days. Hopping around for no reason is actually probably a sign of stress.

[clydefrogmom]

Sounds like your vet doesn't know much about frogs. First of all, answer the questions in the Trouble in the Enclosure sticky. I imagine your temperature and humidity are probably a little off. That can cause them to act funny and get sick.

What does the vet have you syringe-feeding him? It's good that you're getting food into him, but stress can be a huge problem for frogs, and force-feeding is very stressful on them. Hopefully you can get him eating normally soon.

Coco-fiber is actually the recommended bedding for pacman frogs. Unless you feed in a separate container (which I don't recommend for skittish or stressed out frogs, as it just stresses them more) moss is a bad substrate. It can and will be accidentally eaten when the frog strikes, and this can cause impaction. No need to rush and change it as long as you're syringe feeding, but coco-fiber works best.
Moist paper towels (soaked in treated water) are fine, but just out of curiosity what is he doing that makes you think he dislikes coco fiber or moss? They enjoy burrowing, and a happy, healthy pacman frog will often sit in the same spot without moving for days. Hopping around for no reason is actually probably a sign of stress.

We are forcing some calcium since his back legs aren't growing well and since he isn't eating at all yet. The syringe is some can of food. He seemed to like that and opened right up for it.

He had a slimy coating on him. I think it was the moss or the temps off. We covered the lid with just a hole for the light now.


I k ow he would love to burrow...is the small fiber dust or something like the coco bark that's chunkier better?

i hope to only force food for a couple days then try some worms.

[DVirginiana]

The coco-fiber is better. The bark is dangerous for the same reason moss is.

You need to post the answers to the Trouble in the Enclosure sticky. There are probably a couple things that could be fixed about his temp/humidity/housing, but we can't recommend anything unless we know what you're already doing.

What do you mean 'forcing some calcium'? How are you doing this? I ask because too much calcium can cause serious problems just like not enough can. What is the 'can of food'? It has to have a label or something on it.If your vet told you you can't house pacs on coco-fiber, he/she clearly doesn't know what he's talking about. I would be skeptical of anything else he recommended. Sadly, it's not unheard of for vets to pretend to know how to treat exotics when they really don't.
That may not be the case here, but from what you've said, idk.
Also, what is wrong with the back legs that makes you think they are growing incorrectly? Please post a picture. Also a picture of the whole frog so we can see the weight.

There's no need to cover the whole lid. At most, only 2/3 of the lid should be covered if you need to keep humidity up; they need fresh air. Put up a picture of your tank as well. Do you have a hygrometer and thermometer in his tank? If not you need to get those ASAP. Temp and humidity being correct are the most important things for keeping pacs healthy.

[clydefrogmom]

I've only got the lid covered around where the light is not at. I'll post pictures later. I don't have time this morning for it.

the calcium is a gel syring given. but barely .01 ml/day. like tiny amount. and this will stop when he starts eating on his own

I have the coco-fiber in there now...although I found them on his rock this morning. LIke I said the dude talked fast he could of said no moss and not no coco-fiber...it wasn't easy listening to him talk fast and both my boys talking too.

the can is vet grade cat food actually...now that I read the label. (I find that weird but not too weird...) this vet deals with all sorts of animals...they are the ONLY ONE in the area that would even accept a frog. they had a guy with a snake in around the same time as me...don't know what kind of snake because I didn't want to look to closely.

he did suggest worms to try and get him to eat.

the Clyde is 8 ounces (got weighed yesterday)

and yes I have the hygrometer an thermometer in his tank.

[DVirginiana]

Okay, stop feeding the catfood immediately. If it's canned, it's got preservatives, and that could seriously mess up your frog. Also, I wouldn't listen to anything else this vet has to say about frogs. Non-exotics-specialist vets can sometimes be very helpful if they are up front about how much they know about the animals which this one clearly hasn't been...

Go by walmart and pick up a can of DMF nightcrawlers. You can cut them into appropriately sized pieces and force-feed those (probably a similar way to the way you're syringe-feeding). Probably just rubbing it on the frog's lips for a few minutes will be enough to annoy him into taking it. Also, do you have reptile calcium/vitamin (withOUT phosphorous) supplement to dust with after he starts eating? If you do, you can lightly dust a worm chunk every other feeding.
Considering this vet gave you cat food to feed a frog, I'd be afraid to keep using anything he/she gave you, including whatever that calcium gel is.

They can also get minerals through their skin from a reptiboost or pedialyte soak, which would probably be a safer method. I have not had to do one of these, so I dont' know the mixture off the top of my head, but someone else will probably come along and give you the correct ratio of reptiboost or pedialyte to water.

Well, since you have the thermometer and hygrometer in his tank, what are the temps and humidity? It sounds like you've been given some bad info that could be causing problems for your frog. But without information we can't tell what.
The hopping around and sitting on his rock may be a sign that he's stressed, looking for food, or too hot (since they burrow to keep cool). But without more info idk which.


The Trouble in the Enclosure sticky is right here
http://www.frogforum.net/pacman-frog...enclosure.html
Please answer these questions in your next post. It takes like five minutes.

[Heatheranne]

Try covering the tank lid with Saran Wrap or foil about 3/4, but not where the heat lamp is. This will help keep the humidity up. It's easiest to just wrap it right around the lid rather than setting it on top.

[clydefrogmom]

update...sorry its been a week...I'm stuck in the house with my two boys and their fevers!

I have only been feeding Clyde by syringe once a day. He ate a waxworm once last week and we had to let the others go in the yard. I then tried some earthworms/red things (sorry I don't know the formal red earthworm term if there is one) didn't want them.

so this morning after he jumped out of my hand for the fifth time I decide to try a cricket. put it right in front of him...it hopped away but then Clyde moved to face where he went. so I figured I'd get a second one (I have them in their own container thingy in the other room) by the time I fetch another one...Clyde is clearly eating the first one. So I dropped the second one in...GULP!. I added two more crickets and left him to it. Can't find those guys...I'm assuming he ate them.

oh and his back legs are started to look like they should and he is hopping well...when he is getting away from me

finally think we have the lighting he likes...a day heat bulb...one from the pet store. 60 watt I think? and a red night blub. Stays around 78-82 all the time. foil on most of the top. I added a new plant and his water dish looks big but its barely half full. the humidity is now staying around 70ish range...a little up or a little down.

I also started using Spring Water for the spraying and his dish.

I do need to get calcium on his food now that he is eating. I have the powder stuff.

[DVirginiana]

When you feed crickets (especially to young frogs) it is a good idea to remove their hind legs first. I've heard stories of the hind legs getting stuck in their throats before, but also when they can only crawl and not hop the frog has an easier time catching them.
Keep an eye out for those other two crickets or check under his dish; they tend to burrow.
Also, I believe the limit for light is 40 watts (someone correct me if I got that wrong, it's been a long day...). Higher wattages can harm their eyes. I forget, do you already have a heat pad on the side of his tank? That'll bump the heat if you're having trouble keeping it warm enough.

I have to ask... Is Clyde named after Clyde-the-frog on Southpark?

[clydefrogmom]

When you feed crickets (especially to young frogs) it is a good idea to remove their hind legs first. I've heard stories of the hind legs getting stuck in their throats before, but also when they can only crawl and not hop the frog has an easier time catching them.
Keep an eye out for those other two crickets or check under his dish; they tend to burrow.
Also, I believe the limit for light is 40 watts (someone correct me if I got that wrong, it's been a long day...). Higher wattages can harm their eyes. I forget, do you already have a heat pad on the side of his tank? That'll bump the heat if you're having trouble keeping it warm enough.

I have to ask... Is Clyde named after Clyde-the-frog on Southpark?

Thanks

and no he is not named for Clyde,frog from,south park. He is named after the orange ghost from PACman but yes after we named him we remembered cartman's Clyde frog lol

[Lija]

yay! he is eating now! good news!

[Heatheranne]

See if you can spray the tank a bit more to keep that humidity up around 80%. You may want to use a more shallow dish until he grows a bit more, so it's easy for him to get in and out.