Hi there, I'm not sure which dart frogs I'll be choosing, I like so many lol. I really have my eyes on the Nicaraguan green n blacks or the powder blue tincs.
My sister has an old fish tank, hood and stand that she gave me. She said it was a 50 or 55g but I think its closer to a 30g because of the measurements.
Ok now for all the questions, please bare with me..
1) The hood is a basic fish tank hood, would this have to be modified in anyway? Like to help hold humidity in or to keep pests out?
2)What about the bulbs used for the lighting, anything special with that?
3) False bottoms, whats better, the hydrotron or egg crate stuff? And what do you do with all the excess water that accumulates at the bottom? Does it go stagnant? Does it need to be removed every so often? If so, how do you drain it? I don't understand this part at all. Please help lol
4) for this tank I don't plan on doing a waterfall or pond-that will come someday when I get a bigger tank. I will have a dish of.water and was looking into the zoo med reptifogger. Will that work good enough? I see people with those elaborate misting systems, like what you'd see at the grocery stores lol but will the reptifogger do what I need? I seen in a pic that the water it holds looks almost like a soda bottle, how often will it have to be refilled? How often will it mist in a day? Is it programmable or will one of those light timers from Walmart work?
Sorry about all the questions, I just really want to get things right the first time around. I have way more questions but for now, these will do. I don't want to overwhelm everyone with my stupid questions lol
Thank you all in advance, Im excited and can't wait until I'm ready to get some frogs!!![]()
Hello,
This requires quite a bid of personal research. Below are some links. Enjoy
1-they are escape artists ! The lids must be secure ---as well as they need high humidity.
Enclosures are completely closed or have small screed covered area for ventilation.
2-they don't need lights ---but your plants will
3-substrate and builds are entirely up to -
I drill the bottom of I all my tanks so they drain automatically -
If not drilled - YES , you will have to remove collected water.
We all make ,very, personal choices when it comes to this.
I personally put as few chemicals into a tank as possible ,
including the build materials that are deemed said 'to be safe' as there is no research on
he impact of some commonly used building materials over time.
4-Yes - you are right- you do not need a water fall -
( I use craft store bead dishes for water)
I have read the foggers are 'fussy' ?
Spray systems are really not elaborate and well worth the investment- I can not imagine have frogs without it
http://www.mistking.com/Starter-Mist...tem-MKMSN.html
A spray bottle will still be needed regardless of which you choose.
I would have to add- that it depends on the size of the tank. A 30 gallon is not really small; you would be doing a lot of
spraying? May I suggest you invest in a spray system first? Dart frogs live a longtime![]()
The frogs and the plants will appreciate it.
Here are a few online resources:
http//www.reptilechannel.com/care-sheets/poison-dart-frog.aspxe resources:
Amphibian Care >> Poison Dart Frog (Dendrobatidae) Care
Care sheets and supplies:
Josh's Frogs How-To Guides » Poison Dart Frog Care
Hope this helps- sorry for the delay in a reply.
BTW Welcome , again, to Frog Forum
Lynn![]()
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
Well congrats on getting the new tank and stand. Now on to the questions....lol
1. you're going to want to consider a glass lid. It helps maintain humidity, temperature and bugs inside the tank. Fruit flies get everywhere. A glass lid with about an inch wide strip of ventilation screening is ideal depending on what you're keeping.
2. The plants will require lighting to grow. Recent studies have shown that UV lighting may not be the best for the frogs. this makes sense since they spend time in nature under the rainforest canopy and not out in the sun. A regular lighting hood with 4000-6500 k fluorescent tube or CFL dpending on the plants lighting requirements is adequate for the plants and viewing. 6500k imperfect for all plants.
3. The false bottom vs hydroton vs everything else is always a fun topic. Ultimately Lynn said it best. Personal choice. In a nut shell, False bottom is lighter making the tank easier to move. Hydroton is heavy but "good bacteria" grows in the little cracks and crevices. Only way to take advantage of that good bacteria is running water so it's of no real help to you since you're not doing a water feature. Egg crate false bottom with zip ties is dirt cheap and you'll have tons left over for future builds, but takes time with measurements etc. hydroton is literally wash and wear. Wash it well and place it all in. Again Personal choice. You will want to consider using a 2 inch piece of PVC pipe with a screen so that you can drain the water when necessary. If you're hand misting and you use a glass lid, humidity should maintain requiring misting once a week to once every two which minimizes extra water accumulation. Minimal evaporation will help with that.
4. As Lynn said, the misting systems aren't complicated and they're nice but it necessary. If you only have one or two tanks and have a minute once a week to spare, you can mist a tank with distiller water in a spray bottle. Only light misting, to wet the leaves and substrate slightly is required. Never soak everything, it causes soil and root rot as well as breeds harmful bacteria in the soil. I have a repti fogger and my frogs love it. As soon as it turns on the males begin calling. I only run it about 10 mins 3 times a week and I fill it every 4 to 6 weeks. I usually end up running it to display for guests since my humidity is usually over 90 percent. It's not programmable on its own a timer will work but it doesn't really need to run daily unless you have real humidity problems. I just click mine on here and there. Again use distilled water to keep from getting water spots on glass.
I hope this helps. Good luck
Hi thank you Lynn and Ed for your detailed replies. I was up til about 4am reading and reading lol. I found many answers to my own questions from so many websites and videos. I did find something called a living hinge. Where I can use 2 pieces of plexiglass to make half of the lid open and I figured I could dremmel out a small strip and glue a piece of screen for ventilation. Would that work just as good as glass? Or are there premade glass ones with screens?
I also decided to go with the light defuser/egg crate stuff. I might even still have some if I didn't throw the extra out when we moved, because I use it in my ball python egg tubs. And if I don't then I'll just get some at home depot.
As for plants, my wife LOVES orchids but my indoor cats loves to eat plants we've stayed away from them. So I think the plan right now is she wants one in there. Which kind of lighting would an orchid require? Then ill figure out what other plants would work with the same lighting.
As for a misting system, I want to keep the beginning start up cost down. Then little by little add things, a bigger tank will come first, then a misting system and then a cute little trickling waterfall. This tank is long and narrow, although I shouldn't complain.. it was free from a home I trust is clean and bug free! Lol
Anyway now that I know how I'm going to do my false bottom I can at least get started on that.. YAY lol I'll take it one step at a time..
Again, thank you both SO much for your help, input and advice. Im absorbing all of it up like a sponge.
Flowers require around 4000k if I recall correctly. If you have a double bulb hood I'd use one 4000k and one 6500 k and that will definitely meet all of your lighting needs without having to choose one plant over another. Your flowers will do well with the 4000k. All other greener plants will grow well with the 6500k and the good news is neither will suffer and you dont have to settle. Orchids are a great idea for a viv. They're lovely.
The hood takes one bulb.. I don't know anything about plants, could you give me a few others to choose from that will also work with the orchids?
I cleaned the tank with water/bleach and rinsed over and over and overrrrrrr!! I started the false bottom, my question is I know I'm not supposed to use a silicone with a mildew inhibitor, I have some already on
hand but it says its mildew resistant.. is that the same thing? I'm thinking it is so for now I've stopped until I either hear back from one of you or until I make a home depot run. Which ever comes first lol
Oh and as for the orchids.. do they have to be a special kind of orchid?
Sorry about all the questions.. hope no ones sick of me yet lol
Thanks![]()
Right!
Do not use silicone w/ mildew 'resistant' additives.
Orchids....you will want purchase small ones that have similar temp. and humidity needs --- that will thrive in the dart enclosure's very humid environment.
No........ we are NOT sick of you !!Simply take your time. There's lot of homework !!
![]()
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
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