HELP!! RETF hasn't eaten for 3 days!

[TheLivingLegend]

Temp is kept between 65-75 at night, 75 in the hot spot. Hot spot is 85 during the day, 75 is cool area of cage. Humidity is kept between 65-80. Has been doing great up until now. Given the supplement schedule that has been recommended by moderators on frogforum. Havent changed subtrate which is moss and eco earth for 2 months, I do spot clean every other day. Water is changed once every 3 days, I use mountain spring water and reptisafe water conditioner, ratio is applied very accurately. I rinse and wipe his food dish daily and steam clean it along with the water dish once a week. Crickets are gutloaded with nature zone total bites. Stool has been a mix of brown and light brown with the white thing on the end which is water. HELP!!!

[flybyferns]

Temp is kept between 65-75 at night, 75 in the hot spot. Hot spot is 85 during the day, 75 is cool area of cage. Humidity is kept between 65-80. Has been doing great up until now. Given the supplement schedule that has been recommended by moderators on frogforum. Havent changed subtrate which is moss and eco earth for 2 months, I do spot clean every other day. Water is changed once every 3 days, I use mountain spring water and reptisafe water conditioner, ratio is applied very accurately. I rinse and wipe his food dish daily and steam clean it along with the water dish once a week. Crickets are gutloaded with nature zone total bites. Stool has been a mix of brown and light brown with the white thing on the end which is water. HELP!!!

Hi Tommy,
I'm sorry this went un-answered . I hope he ate for you.
I will reply...........assuming he did not:
The temp needs to be 78-82 daytime and 71-75 night.
There really should not be a hot spot-I'm a little confused about what you mean by that?
The humidity is good . Should be70-80 - never sustained about 82 ( the temporary higher level a after a mist i ok )

Here is what I would do:
Remove all substrate. clean the bottom best as possible with wet paper towels-- no chemicals
Replace with plain paper towel /dampened with de-chlor water (nice and damp)
Change the paper towel 3 time a week -- when the frog is sleeping
Add his shallow soaking dish / with de-chlor water ( change daily- rinsed in hot tap water )
Add his food dish back.
And continue to wait. I'm sure you are counting the feeders, and you are sure none escaped at any point onto the substrate?
The paper will help you monitor his poop, and follow the feeding more closely.
I don't use cocoa fiber as substrate for my tree frogs ---so I'm not sure how long it lasts without a false bottom.
I would NOT put any moss back in - there is a risk it can cause impact on ( if he grabs a cricket off the substrate?)
Let us know......3 days not alarming, but more than a week is a problem.
The loss of appetite can be a sign of other problems.
Weigh your frog. ( food scale / weight in grams)

I would suggest you have a herp vet in mind or purchase the metronidizole and panacure from Dr Frye. ( these meds should be kept on hand anyway ) You could also email Dr Frye.

http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-prepared.html

Lynn

[TheLivingLegend]

Hi Tommy,
I'm sorry this went un-answered . I hope he ate for you.
I will reply...........assuming he did not:
The temp needs to be 78-82 daytime and 71-75 night.
There really should not be a hot spot-I'm a little confused about what you mean by that?
The humidity is good . Should be70-80 - never sustained about 82 ( the temporary higher level a after a mist i ok )

Here is what I would do:
Remove all substrate. clean the bottom best as possible with wet paper towels-- no chemicals
Replace with plain paper towel /dampened with de-chlor water (nice and damp)
Change the paper towel 3 time a week -- when the frog is sleeping
Add his shallow soaking dish / with de-chlor water ( change daily- rinsed in hot tap water )
Add his food dish back.
And continue to wait. I'm sure you are counting the feeders, and you are sure none escaped at any point onto the substrate?
The paper will help you monitor his poop, and follow the feeding more closely.
I don't use cocoa fiber as substrate for my tree frogs ---so I'm not sure how long it lasts without a false bottom.
I would NOT put any moss back in - there is a risk it can cause impact on ( if he grabs a cricket off the substrate?)
Let us know......3 days not alarming, but more than a week is a problem.
The loss of appetite can be a sign of other problems.
Weigh your frog. ( food scale / weight in grams)

I would suggest you have a herp vet in mind or purchase the metronidizole and panacure from Dr Frye. ( these meds should be kept on hand anyway ) You could also email Dr Frye.

http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-prepared.html

Lynn

Thank you lynn. The hot spot was a ceramic heater with a zoomed thermostat and digital temp gauge next to the thermostat. I keep the hot spot (area where the gauges are, 1" below the gauges is 5 degrees less than what the gauge reads. I think he has been a little cold at night because he gets as close to the warm spot as he can while hes sleeps, he sits with his nose up against the top of his cage, literally getting as close as he can to the ceramic heater. Im not sure if this is the reason, but I finally took my christmas tree down over the weekend and it has been completely dark in my room. I switched to a black night time bulb last night, he ate : ) Switched to a crickets thats a hair big for him, chomped down 2 of them last night. He hasnt been eating every night, every night at the least often. He took a dump last night also. Anyone have luck with getting these guys to eat roaches? I have a vet, hes actually a really good one, used to breed panther chams also. Thank you for the meds link!!

[TheLivingLegend]

***Eating every other night. Was in a rush.