Re: feeding time.

getmomtowatchthem · February 3rd, 2013

Attn: Grifthegreat
Something was wrong every time I went to post my answers to your questions so I decided after doing it over 3 times to enter the ans. here.

1. Size of enclosure: one 10 gallon tank for each of my PacMan Frogs.
2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences: 1 PacMan for each tank
3. Humidity: 70-80%, this is difficult to maintain and I use a spray bottle about 6-8 times a day to maintain this.
4. Temperature: 72-78 degrees.
5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish: Chlorine Free/Filtered.
6. Materials used for substrate: Loose Coconut Fiber substrate.
7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials.: Artificial trees/plant, 1 in each tank on the warm side, No bark or rocks or gravel, 1 repti-rock pool in each tank on the cool side of each tank. There is a thermometer and hygrometer in each tank. I went to the fabric store and bought this really neat lush, green tropical fabric and made a panel for 1 long side of each tank and one for the entire back of each tank so they won't get scared. I attached them with velcro to the tanks.
- How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv.: Cleaned, washed,rinsed and dried then set up with the above items. Then moistened with spray bottle.
8. Main food source: Crickets and wax worms sparingly for treats. I want to try night crawlers. I really don't like dealing with the crickets, they are so creepy.
9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often): Rep-Cal Phosphorus-Free Calcium with fit.d3 once a week.
10. Lighting: ZooMed Nightlight Red Reptile bulb 60 Watt. 1 for each tank in a Fluker's 5.5" clamp-Lamp. over the warm end of each tank. 24/4 then 12/3 because I don't like to leave the hot red lights on when I am at work.
11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure: a mini 4x7 heat mat by Zilla on the vertical warm end of each tank.
12. When is the last time he/she ate: This evening.
13. Have you found poop lately: I saw some last week, but this week, I have not found any, could it be under the substrate where they burrow?
14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine): I will have to have my son teach me how to do this. I took the photos but don't know how to post them.
15. How old is the frog: My son got them mid December they were the size of a quarter, I got them two weeks ago and they are the size of a 50 cent piece.
16. How long have you owned him/her: received them 2 weeks ago.
17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred: Captive.
18. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats: Crickets, wax worms, I want to try Night-Crawlers.
19. How often the frog is handled: I don't use my hands to gather them, I read on the Forum that this could transfer oils, lotions onto their skin that they don't need so I use a soft large rounded edged rice spoon that is for sure not sharp and gently lift them out with this.
20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area: Very low traffic area.
21. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc: Pool changes every 5-7 days, they have not used the pools yet. Complete tank cleansing every two weeks, with removal of everything and washing out of the tanks with hot soapy water and complete rinsing and drying and then new coconut fiber, arranging, etc.

I would really like to thank each of you who responded to my questions. Thank you very very much.

I am really trying to care for these cute guys the best I can.

I would love to know if you find that I am not doing something correctly. Feel free to advise.

I have one more question: Do I need to use a 50 Watt white Repti Basking spot lamp over each tank in the day?

**Google Ads** · February 3rd, 2013

**flybyferns** · February 3rd, 2013

I left a 'visitor message' for Grif ; with a link to this thread for you !
Your are doing a great job!

# 9 ---to differentiated between calcium and calcium w / D3... Every feeding with calcium ?, every month or so w/ calcium w/d3 ? I don't know if the D3 is needed at all? I don't think a little will hurt.

This is very dependent on the frog's age. Since you have smaller baby pacman frogs, then supplement every or every other feeding w/ calcium For older frogs / every week?

I don't keep PACs ...so run this by Grif
Lynn

**GrifTheGreat** · February 3rd, 2013

Thanks for answering back!

Horned frogs are a relatively sedentary creature. Large spaces can stress them out. Babies in particular can be stressed out by being in the comparatively large 10 gallon tank. Their natural reaction to stress is to burrow down and not eat as much. Being in a large enclosure also decreases their chances of catching food. They will do the fast majority of their growth in the first couple of months, so proper nutrition is essential. You should consider putting them in something smaller. The medium sized critter keepers are great for keeping baby Pacs. You will need the small hermit crab UTH (these are safe for plastic). When the frogs are bigger, they should be able to be moved back into the 10 gallons without any issue.

The temperature should be 76-79 at night and 80-82 during the day for babies. Heat helps metabolize their food. Babies and juveniles are particularly sensitive to fluctuations in temperature so try to keep them steady.

Just to clarify, are you using a water de-chlorinator? Or just a filter? Filters may remove the taste of chlorine but not chloramines or heavy metals.

Crickets are fine and waxworms are ok as a treat. Nightcrawlers make a much better staple diet and are so much easier to maintain. For smaller frogs, you can cut off appropriately sized chunks to feed.

Generally you do not want to go above 60 watts on any bulb used for this type of frog. Does your light have a dimmer switch? That would allow you to tweak the temperature to the correct temps. It is best to give them a 12 hour day/night cycle. The bulb you have should be ok, but an infrared bulb would give you better heat. The one you have is mostly for viewing. I prefer Zoo Med Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp bulb 50 Watts. If you have an Albino, you can use this bulb all the time. All others should have a daylight bulb. The lower watt bulb shouldn't poss any safety risks.

Yes, they will poop in their burrows. Sometimes they bury it, but usually they will move to a different burrow after having a bowel movement.

It is ok to handle them when needed. It is true that oils and whatever is on your hands can harm them, however washing your hands thoroughly before helps with this. Wash with warm water and soap, dry your hands, then rinse them with de-chlorinated water. Having your hands damp helps keep them from drying out the frog's skin. The spoon is not a safe method of transporting them. They can jump off of it too easily. Plus they are going to be too big for a spoon very quickly! Just gently scoop the frog up from behind and cup it in your hands so that it can't jump out and hurt itself. They Ivorys have a very good video on how to handle Pacmans.

Water should be changed every day. At the very least, every other day. You don't want the water to get stagnant.

Please post pictures as soon as possible. Keep us posted!

**GrifTheGreat** · February 3rd, 2013

Oops, I forgot to mention calcium! Dust with the calcium with D3 every other day. Use a multivitamin once a week, but not on the same feeding as the calcium. (They won't absorb either as well when used simultaneously.) Babies should be offered food every night. They may not eat every single night, but they should be offered food.