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  1. #1
    Moderator tgampper's Avatar
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    Default Re: Clawed or Dwarf Frog?

    The key difference between the African clawed frog (genus Xenopus) and the dwarf (genus Hymenochirus) is that ACFs do not have webbing on the fingers, while the dwarfs do. Also, the eyes are pointed upward for ACFs and dwarfs are more forward looking. As confirmed, you do have ACFs.

    Ideally, you should have 10 gallons per frog, however they can survive easily in 5 gallons per frog. Like all aquatic animals, you need to maintain a high level of water quality - good filtration, frequent water changes and make sure the water is conditioned. I personally use Stress-Coat and have had very healthy frogs. These frogs are long lived, I have two pair that are 15+ years old! The temperature should be about 70-72 (F). I keep mine at room temperature. I feed my frogs exclusively Repto-Min. However, a variety of worms and insects are also great food items. Females are larger and more plumper (pear-shaped bodies) while males are more streamlined and smaller. It appears to me that your frogs are females. Males will have blackened fingers, like gloves. These are called nuptial pads to help the male hold on during mating. Females will also have a swollen vent.

    These frogs are extremely healthy when kept properly. The biggest peoblem that most people have is a condition called bloating. It is caused mainly by improper husbandry. With frogs it is much easier to prevent illness than to treat it. The frogs are extremely slimy and hard to handle. I use a large plastic cup and a fish net. I catch the frog in the cup and cover it with the net. I never touch the frog and the cup will protect the frog from injury and escaping. The slimy skin has a chemical called maganins, which have antibacterial and antifungal properties. Good luck with your frogs and they sure look cute
    Terry Gampper
    Nebraska Herpetological Society




    “If we can discover the meaning in the trilling of a frog, perhaps we may understand why it is for us not merely noise but a song of poetry and emotion.”
    ---
    Adrian Forsyth

  2. #2
    Sundrip
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    Default Re: Clawed or Dwarf Frog?

    I have adult African Clawed Frogs (legal in my state) and have enjoyed them clemently. I currently have 4 in two different tanks. When I first saw your photos I without a doubt knew you had two ACF's. They'll live about 15+ years in captivity and will be a total joy to watch grow up.
    Read up on them but mostly have fun cause these frogs are easy. They're easy and, like you said, bring joy. I've said that about my frogs and fish for a long time, but especially the frogs, they bring me joy. Congrats on your ACF's you've got a wonderful species in your home.
    Get yourself a 20 gallon long and let them live their lives in that. You won't regret it.

  3. #3
    JayFrog
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    Default Re: Clawed or Dwarf Frog?

    Wow! An immense amount of information, I can't thank you all enough and I really do hope they live for a long time, they are great companions. Now that I'm here I might as well ask the remaining questions I have:

    1) I'm currently using this filter with the 2.5 gallon tank: Amazon.com: TOM Aquarium Mini Internal Filter 45gph adjustable flow: Pet Supplies
    The main reason I chose it was because one it was rated pretty good and two it was quiet filter, I know these frogs become stressed with the slightest vibration. Three, the area where the water sucks in has very little pressure so the frogs are completely safe if they get close so overall it's a very good filter. However, it's a little hard to clean since it's "mini" and I don't have a brush that can fit inside. It's also hard to obtain filters when I need them since they are delivered. I plan on upgrading to a 10 gallon tank in a month or so, are there any recommended quiet filters?

    2) I'm using sand aggregate for the bottom only because it's harmless but it's quite hard to re-setup the tank after a good cleaning. I know I can't use small rocks since they can choke on it. Are there any other recommended bottoms aside from sand, or should I just keep the sand, I don't mind the extra work.

    3) I use this product for the water conditioning: Name:  tetra.jpg
Views: 341
Size:  33.7 KBShould I use a different one or will this work fine?

    4) What's the recommended feeding schedule? I always read people do every day, others say every two days, and other says 2-3 times a week.

    Final Question I promise:
    5) I need some what of an instruction on water changing. Currently, I do 50-60% water removal every 2-3 weeks, put new water in a bucket I have, measure the temperature and use the conditioner mentioned on the third question and wait around 40-50 minutes before putting it in the tank. Any recommended methods?

  4. #4
    100+ Post Member Louis Charles Bruckner's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: Clawed or Dwarf Frog?

    You have made some really good choices!

    The filter is a really good one especially for sand substrate.
    I like the design that the pump is after the filter media so if by chance any sand is sucked up
    into the filter it won't bugger the motor or impeller.
    Also the adjustable flow. you want to provide enough flow for proper filtration
    but at the same time you don't want to cause a hazard for your inhabitants of your tank either
    by the intake or turbulent water conditions that the poor things won't be able to rest in one spot.

    I have book marked that model for future use. thanks!

    I would keep the sand for a while until you move to a larger tank. ( when they out grow the smaller tank)
    While they are small sand will be ok since if they swallow some that can pass it.


    Then I would get large gravel for substrate. with a submergible feeding plate like a small terra-cotta dish.
    just place their food on the dish.
    if you just put it in the tank it might fall in between the gravel and be kinda hard to clean up.

    water changes are huge topic of debate among aquarist. it all depends on a lot of factors.
    #1 the current water quality of the tank.
    #2 the size of the tank
    #3 how many inhabitants of the tank and what type (some make more waists than others like ACF'S do.)
    #4 does the tank have any live plants. ( I would get some if the tank was larger. that is just me . I always keep live plants.)

    I would get a good quality water test kit. like this one,
    Name:  pPETS-3757070_alternate1_t96.jpg
Views: 409
Size:  2.5 KBName:  pPETS-3757070dt.jpg
Views: 653
Size:  80.1 KB
    I would also get a air pump and airstone to keep up the oxygen level in the water.
    I know they aren't fish but they do absorb a lot of oxygen via their skin so they don't have to surface so often.
    and when they sleep.

    Follow the instructions I left on a fish forum on how to set up a air pump and air stone properly.
    http://www.aquariumforum.com/134708-post4.html

    I would only do 25% water change once a week unless you have water quality problems.
    Changing water too much or too often can stress the frogs.

    Feeding is also hugely debated issue.
    I have fed mine frozen blood worms , guppies (ones I bred my self.) and as a once and while treat.
    cut earth worms from a source I trust.
    reptomin pellets as a staple.
    I fed them every other day when they got to adult size
    and when they were small (about the size of a quarter) I fed them daily staple and every other day a few guppie fry
    I kept them for 4 years in my office at USC-Aiken so they would go the weekend with out food with no problems.
    So did my fish.

    Hope this helps

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