Ornament Sealant Question

[deranged chipmunk]

you can use ge silicone II, but it will dry dull and opaque. you can use titebond III wood glue, but it dries yellow. you can use a two part epoxy. that will dry clear. marine epoxy also dries clear and is water proof, but pricey. had you not painted it, you could have painted it instead with drylok paint. then you would not have needed to seal it.

[NickHendrix007]

So it seems like a 2-part epoxy is my best bet. Is that stuff gooey or does it come out liquidy? Is it easily spreadable by hand (gloves, of course) or brush?

[Sunshine]

I used a paint brush when i used the 2 part epoxy. I used a small glass dish that I could just throw away when I was done and squeezed both bottles at the same time into the bowl, trying to get equal parts of each, and mixed it up with a paintbrush and painted it on. It starts setting in 5 minutes, so only make as much as you will use in 5 minutes

[NickHendrix007]

So the waterproof 2 part epoxies are totally watertight and are safe to use in submerged areas? I'm assuming it is non-toxic after a week or two of curing.

[Sunshine]

Yep yep

[NickHendrix007]

Have you or have you heard of anyone ever just using the aquarium safe loctite as an ornament sealant? ----> Clear Silicone, Waterproof Sealant, Aquarium Sealant Features from Loctite Adhesives

It seems to dry pretty clear? Could I just rub this in 2 or 3 layers (let the first dry, put on a second, etc, etc) over the entire project to seal it?

[Sunshine]

My only fear is that over time it may become hazy. That is a good question for Bill though. He's the expert. Also, I forgot to mention the down side to the 2 part epoxy... It dries shiny but if you can find some colored sand that is close in color to the piece you are working on you can sprinkle some on to the epoxy while it is still wet to help take some of the shinyness away. I would test on a scrap piece though to be safe.