Hi Savannah,
I am going to be blunt.You have worked so hard! Hang in there ! This is not easy !
This is a long post. Get a cup of tea!If questions should continue to come up, just keep asking
---we all know the answers to them
I'm sorry you are going through all of this. I think your frogs got severely stressed. As you know this can occur for numerous reasons. Then things just spiral down ! I think you have to back-up.
Heather is a pro at this...without these soaks they will not get better.
I agree with Brian ( post # 18). If these were my frogs, I would put ALL of them into small hospital tanks (ALONE), for as long as it takes. Red eyes can be difficult --- you will get through this. They require a very routine, dedicated schedule, and a bunch of supplies. This is an expensive hobby.
hospital tanks are a must ! :
These small tanks need to be cleaned before they are used. VERY diluted bleach and water. RINSE.........the last rinse should have several drops of de-chlorinator in it and let it sit there for a while. Use a clean branch ( live if possible ) from a pothos plant in each tank ( never get them mixed up).
To clean the branches: Home depot has potted pothos -- its cheap. When you get it home ....dump the entire plant's soil into the trash. One plant is now several cuttings. Shake off as much soil as possible off of each cutting, leaving the roots exposed. . Rinse off ( with tap water) every possible speck of dirt.
Dip these into a solution of bleach and water . You can dip these branches for a few seconds into the bleach /water that is in the tanks when you are cleaning them. Simply organize things before you start. Put one big branch in each hospital tank. To suspend the branch(s) ( if possible-- but necessary) cut a suction cup to hold a stem. Home depot has a billion different sizes. Get large ones ( no metal hooks) ...cut a slit into the end ... and push the stem in. Leave the roots exposed. These branches will be fine without dirt- since their roots will be touching the very we paper towel substrate.
When setting the tanks up – be mindful of ‘easy cleaning’. You want to keep things as simple as possible, and get in and out of the tank as quickly as possible to reduce stress. Always clean in daylight. Be as careful as possible not to wake a frog.
Use dampened paper towel on the bottom of each tank w/ screen lids. Cover at least 1/2 of the lids ( plastic or plexi) to keep the humidity in. FYI - petco is having a $1 a gallon sale. You can purchase those little 'floating' aquarium type thermometers for less than $2 each . ( these work great- just set it on the bottom of each tank) These little tanks never go to waste--- they can be re-used for numerous froggy protects. Change out the paper towel 3 times a week ( create a written schedule). A paper towel change should be done during the daylight so to reduce any additional stress on them. As mentioned, use small 'saucer-like' soaking dishes ( containing de-chlorinated water only). This should be changed daily ( during the day)--rinse dishes off with as hot as water you can -no cleaner of any kind. Don’t get the dishes mixed up.
Clean a spray bottle ( again) ie put it through the dishwater ( then rinse, rinse, rinse and rinse). Use de-clorinated water ,ONLY, in the spray bottle for misting. Never spray the frog directly.
de-chlorinator:
Exo Terra : Aquatize / Terrarium Water Conditioner
thermometer: ( not the one with the metal case!)
Aquarium Thermometers, Aquarium Thermometers | PetSolutions
cover three sides of each little tank ( ie cut a brown paper bag ).
provide a day /night cycle.
Night should be - complete darkness. ( no viewing bulbs for now) if you have to peak use a dim flash light / briefly
Feeding:
Even if the frogs are not eating on their own, continue to feed them every day !!!!!!!( small crickets ONLY) . Keep track of how many you put in. Don't be afraid to be generous. Make dinner an easy catch. If you have any - clear- 2 cup pyrex type bowls......... feed in bowls and on the paper towel. Remove uneaten crickets every morning and put them back into the cricket bin to gut load. Gut load w/prepared cricket product. Gut loading is very important. Crickets need to be kept as healthy as possible . The glass feeding bowls need to be cleaned every day- rinse in hot tap water and dry w/ paper towel
Great product:
Amazon.com: Fluker's Hi Calcium Cricket Feed: Pet Supplies
When you get a chance, could you please answer these questions? Cut and past the red into another post or PM. Remember we are backing up. Answer these in retrospect -------- regarding your previous habits
( before all of this ) with their main enclosure and typical daily care. I’m hoping we can isolate a possible reason(s) for what has happened. I have modified these questions for you. Some of the answers we already know, just do the best you can. Repeat the information if possible.
1-size of enclosure
2-# on inhabitants - specifically ( if there is another frog ---size differences ?)
3-humidity
4-temp
5-water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
6-materials used for substrate
7-enclosure set up i.e. plants( live or artificial) wood, bark etc -how were things prepared prior to being put into the viv
8-main food source
9-vitamins and calcium ? ( how often ) what brand
10-lighting
11-what is, specifically, being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
12-how often were you feeding
13-were you finding poop – what did it look like be descriptive !
ie was it running down the side of the tank ?
14-on going- a pics would be great ( including the frog(s) any little cell phone pic is fine
15- how old is are frog(s)
16-how long have you owned them
17- are the frogs wild caught or captive bred
18- frog food- how often and if its diverse what other feeders are used as treats
19- about how often were he frog(s) handled
20-is the enclosure is kept in a high or low traffic area
21- Describe enclosure maintenance ( water changes, cleaning etc)
Last but not least:
Do you have a herp vet?
What medications do you have on hand?
Or, have you been in touch with Dr Frye.