Quarantine and cleaning

[Locascio]

I highly recommend that you quarantine your animals for at least 30 days (preferably 60) before you place them in with the rest of your collection. This quarantine period will allow you to assess the health of your newcomers and will reduce the possibility of introducing disease to your other pets. During the quarantine period you should collect at least three fecal samples for testing from your new acquisition and all three should be negative before introducing the new animal to the standard collection. Chances are especially if the animal is from the wild that your vet will find some kind of parasite that must be treated before releasing the animal from quarantine (note) you should always service your quarantine specimens after you have worked with your regular collection. This significantly reduces disease transmission possibilities. Once you have gotten three negative samples the animal may join you’re other herps if it has tested positive during quarantine you should test it every three months for one year until you get consistent negative results. Certain parasites do not always show up, even during extended quarantine. All animals in your group should have routine fecal exams twice a year. As for cleaning cleanliness and water quality must never be overlooked frogs and toads can become sick and or die because a lack of husbandry on the owners part so as a frog owner it’s your responsibility to provide the up most cleanliness for your pets hears some good cleaning habits as noted, cleaning and disinfection are paramount. If your animal poops, clean it up as soon as possible. Only use sterile materials , any soiled substrates should be removed and replaced a good general disinfectant is 1 ounce of bleach pure 2 gallons of water(note) do not use scented bleach it can be harm full to your frogs. Be sure you have moved your frogs to another room while your cleaning their cages also thoroughly rinse there cages with very hot water afterwards and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours I do this by always having a backup cage that’s already been cleaned so that I can set my frogs back up asap. Alternatively, a mild soap solution may be used for amphibians as long as the unit is thoroughly rinsed (at least twice) and then dried for 24 hours always label any bottles containing any solution (including water) that you may be using around your herps. Be sure to read the contents of those bottles before you start spraying and be sure that you disinfectant any utensils you use and that there disinfected between different enclosures last, and this is very important, disinfect your hands. Your hands are wonderful means of transmitting microscopic parasites and parasite eggs. Clean and disinfect them every time you handle your animals and every time you clean their cages. Keep a disinfectant bucket available at all times to soak your cleaning instruments in the solution. Dip your hands as you dip your tools (of. Course, taking care not to handle specimens with solution soaked hands) this will do wonders in preventing disease transmission.


All information gathered thru my personal experience and provided by the following references.i would also like to thank everyone from the frogforum for all there help and support in making this the best website related to amphibians
Reptile and amphibian parasite: Author Eric M. Rundquist
Frogs and toads: Author Devin Edmonds
Frogs in the aquarium: Author Werner von Filek
Whites tree frogs: Author Phillippe de vosjoli
Horned frogs: Author Phillippe de vosjoli
Tadpole care: Phil Purser
Horned frog care: Allen R. Both
Frogs, Toads, and Tree frogs: Author Bartlett and Bartlett
Tree frogs: Devin Edmonds
American treefrogs: Author Jerry G.Walls
Frogs and toads of the world: Author Chris Mattison
Frogs, toads, salamanders and how they reproduce: Author Dorothy Hinshaw patent
Frogs inside their remarkable world: Author Ellin Beltz
I would highly suggest reading all of these books

[Mercedesherp]

Agian, you have my attention,
Hank

[DVirginiana]

It may be good to add that vinegar is another option for cage cleaning. It is not as powerful as bleach, but should still get everything clean if you scrub it well. Also, there is no need to wait 24 hours before putting your frogs back in their tanks afterward, so long as you are certain you've gotten all the vinegar out (good for people who may not have spare tanks to house their frogs while they're cleaning cages).

This is just a question; for a solitary species such as a pacman, what would be the purpose of quarantining in a separate area, since they would not be housed with other frogs anyway? I can't think of many parasites/diseases they carry that would be airborne. It seems like just making sure not to use the same equipment would be enough to prevent disease from spreading.
I'm only bringing this up because a lot of people might find it difficult to keep a new frog in a completely separate room from the rest of their collection. It would definitely be safer that way; less risk of accidental contamination and all, but I'm not sure how practical that would be for a lot of people (just thinking that there's no way I could keep a frog at the right temps anywhere except the room where I keep my other herps).

[Mercedesherp]

Very good question,
Typically a single frog would encounter very few problems. When multiple frogs are housed within the same structure, the threat of disease is on the increase. Vinegar works well, but the choice of disinfectants is wholly upon the keeper. I have always used a "bleach" solution, it just worked for me. I usually had a large number of acclimating animals at any given time, and I can assure you
that 50% of my time was dedicated to disinfection and cleaning. Amphibians are demanding captives.

[DVirginiana]

Very good question,
Typically a single frog would encounter very few problems. When multiple frogs are housed within the same structure, the threat of disease is on the increase. Vinegar works well, but the choice of disinfectants is wholly upon the keeper. I have always used a "bleach" solution, it just worked for me. I usually had a large number of acclimating animals at any given time, and I can assure you
that 50% of my time was dedicated to disinfection and cleaning. Amphibians are demanding captives.

I've always felt safer using vinegar. To me, it's easier to smell than the bleach so I feel more secure knowing when it's completely cleaned out. It's good for people who prefer natural cleaning options too. I realize a lot of people use bleach with no problem, it's just not my favorite.

[GrifTheGreat]

I use a product called Wipe Out 1. All you do is mist down the enclosure with it and let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Afterwards you just wipe the enclosure down well with a dry cloth or my preference paper towels. You can seen when the cleaner is gone and you wait for it to air out before returning the frog's enclosure back together. You can rinse if you want, but isn't necessary.

I usually rinse the enclosure out really well with scalding hot water, wipe it dry, mist the enclosure with Wipe Out 1, and the wipe it down really well. Works well and kills bacteria and other microbes like bleach.

[DeeDub]

Where'd you pick up the wipe out?

[GrifTheGreat]

Where'd you pick up the wipe out?

You can get it at Petsmart. Don't use it for water dishes though. They make a different product called Wipe Out 2, but I just scald my water dishes and wipe them out really well. I don't see the need for that product. Wipe Out 1 smells like alcohol once misted onto the glass. So you can tell when it's aired out.

[Locascio]

Thank you for your input on the subject. You do make some valid points. This doesn't mean that this is the only way, it's just the way that I do it. Again thank you everybody for reading my posts, there will be more coming soon.

[Mercedesherp]

For Post # 3,
Quarantine protocols for even semi isolated specimans are needed ,particularly, in regards to their maintenance and feeding. Those animals in "qurantine" should be the last attended to,
and all implements should be disinfected. This will lessen any bio-threats.

[Locascio]

bump...

[Mercedesherp]

bump...

You will find bio-controls and proper protocols on AMPHIBIANARK.org
These folks are the absolute best, you can not go wrong in your captive breeding development, pay attention, understand, be patient, RESEARCH