Problem with Albino Pacman Frog

[Namio]

I have an albino pacman frog, and he keeps flipping on his back. I heard this could be due to stress, but i dont know why it is happening all of a sudden. Ive had him for a few years and everything is still the same.

coco husk substrate

As recommended previously, change this to EcoEarth Coconut fiber as the substrate.

heat lamp

Heat lamp can cause unnecessary stress to albino pacmans. Must provide a cover for the frog so the light don't shine the light directly on the frog.

eats once or twice a week

I noticed you never mentioned the age or size of the frog. If the frog is less than 2.5 inches it needs to be offered crickets 4 times a week. In other words, it needs to be eating twice as much as the current pace. There's a certain window of growth spurts in animals and if you don't properly nourish it during those spurts its growth will be permanently stunt.

Please provide us with pictures of the frog, when it's in its enclosure "on a normal day" and the age & length of the frog.


On a separate note regarding to mix (or not mix) Calcium with Vitamin:

4) are you mixing the vitamins and calcium together? The only supplement I know of that's formulated for this is Repashy Calcium Plus. Otherwise, the calcium can prevent from vitamins and minerals from vein absorbed properly, and vise versa. Try using the vitamins once a week and the calcium every other feeding, and not at the same time!

I've always been curious about this and I've yet to successfully find a legit source to back this up.

Here's what I found by the manufacturer of Herptivite (vitamin) and Rep-Cal (calcium) (Rep-Cal Supplements):

Dosage: We ask that you mix Rep-Cal with our vitamin supplement Herptivite. If we premixed the products, the "beadlets" of beta carotene in Herptivite may possibly be damaged during manufacturing by the calcium in Rep-Cal. Mix with vegetables, fruits, and pastes approximately 1/2 tablespoon Rep-Cal with 1/2 tablespoon Herptivite per pound of food.
Before feeding insects:
1) Thoroughly mix a 1:1 ratio of Rep-Cal and Herptivite in a plastic bag.
2) Place insects in the bag.
3) Shake slowly until they are completely covered.
No other supplementation is required. Contains no added starch, sugar, soy preservatives, artificial coloring, flavoring, or fragrance. Consult your veterinarian for any special nutritional problems or advice.

Specifically this below brings to my attention that the manufacturer wants us to mix Calcium with Vitamin.

1) Thoroughly mix a 1:1 ratio of Rep-Cal and Herptivite in a plastic bag.

Can someone actually provide a trustworthy source that says otherwise? Like everyone else I am curious about this. I want to find out what's true and what's good or not good for our ectothermic friends.

[GrifTheGreat]

As recommended previously, change this to EcoEarth Coconut fiber as the substrate.


Heat lamp can cause unnecessary stress to albino pacmans. Must provide a cover for the frog so the light don't shine the light directly on the frog.


I noticed you never mentioned the age or size of the frog. If the frog is less than 2.5 inches it needs to be offered crickets 4 times a week. In other words, it needs to be eating twice as much as the current pace. There's a certain window of growth spurts in animals and if you don't properly nourish it during those spurts its growth will be permanently stunt.

Please provide us with pictures of the frog, when it's in its enclosure "on a normal day" and the age & length of the frog.


On a separate note regarding to mix (or not mix) Calcium with Vitamin:


I've always been curious about this and I've yet to successfully find a legit source to back this up.

Here's what I found by the manufacturer of Herptivite (vitamin) and Rep-Cal (calcium) (Rep-Cal Supplements):

Dosage: We ask that you mix Rep-Cal with our vitamin supplement Herptivite. If we premixed the products, the "beadlets" of beta carotene in Herptivite may possibly be damaged during manufacturing by the calcium in Rep-Cal. Mix with vegetables, fruits, and pastes approximately 1/2 tablespoon Rep-Cal with 1/2 tablespoon Herptivite per pound of food.
Before feeding insects:
1) Thoroughly mix a 1:1 ratio of Rep-Cal and Herptivite in a plastic bag.
2) Place insects in the bag.
3) Shake slowly until they are completely covered.
No other supplementation is required. Contains no added starch, sugar, soy preservatives, artificial coloring, flavoring, or fragrance. Consult your veterinarian for any special nutritional problems or advice.

Specifically this below brings to my attention that the manufacturer wants us to mix Calcium with Vitamin.


Can someone actually provide a trustworthy source that says otherwise? Like everyone else I am curious about this. I want to find out what's true and what's good or not good for our ectothermic friends.

As far as I know all evidence is by observation without an exact scientific study being performed otherwise, but with them being separate. it allows their body to absorb each individually and more successfully without having to break them all down at once. if its formulated for it then I'd follow the instructions of the the Repashy and other formulas use separately.

As for Plantation soil it is the same and you can find just as many debris in Eco Earth as the Plantation soil. Both are fine.

EDIT; lights for Albinos must be infrared. Absolutely no daylight or basking spot light bulbs. No bulbs higher than 50 watts and use a lamp that has a dimmer switch to adjust the output of the bulb.

[Casualties138]

thanks for all the advice, ill pick up some pedialyte tomorrow and soak him. For the rest of the questions,

-theres no toxic plants in the tank, i know this for sure, i used to work in a greenhouse
-yes he only eats crickets
-yes there is a background of plants around 3 sides of the tank, and there is not a lot of traffic
-yes i was mixing the vitamins and calcium together, ill change this to one or the other at each feeding, as i said he eats once or twice a week, so would just alternating the 2 between feedings work?
-tank arangement is the same
-i just changed the substrate, i try to every couple weeks (sometimes a bit sooner)

and ill take some pictures and post them tomorrow after he soaks.

-for the lights...i have a daylight on one side and a red heat light on the other, it is a 50 watt as it is nearly impossible to find 40 watt ones where i live. I have no idea why. anyway, so what could i replace the daylight with then? without it the tank is constantly dark (with the exception of the red light which isnt much its really just for heat)

[Kira Hudson]

-for the lights...i have a daylight on one side and a red heat light on the other, it is a 50 watt as it is nearly impossible to find 40 watt ones where i live. I have no idea why. anyway, so what could i replace the daylight with then? without it the tank is constantly dark (with the exception of the red light which isnt much its really just for heat)

the light in the room should be enuf

[Casualties138]

the light in the room should be enuf

the light in the room is just from the windows and it doesnt really go into the cage as the side of the cage that faces the window has a background covering it.

[Namio]

-theres no toxic plants in the tank, i know this for sure, i used to work in a greenhouse

No offense to you, but folks generally don't learn about what's toxic to amphibians by working at the greenhouse. I'm not arguing that there are toxic plants inside your terrarium. I'm just simply making a point on that the logic may not work there.

-for the lights...i have a daylight on one side and a red heat light on the other, it is a 50 watt as it is nearly impossible to find 40 watt ones where i live. I have no idea why. anyway, so what could i replace the daylight with then? without it the tank is constantly dark (with the exception of the red light which isnt much its really just for heat)

I rely completely on UTH to warm up my terrariums so I'm no expert on light bulbs. The "daylight" is only good for you to view the frog and it serves not much of a purpose (besides providing some UV-B, which is unnecessary since you're providing vitamin dusting already) if it's on almost half a day. In fact, that may cause some stress in horned frogs if they are exposed to direct brightness too much. It makes them feeling like being in an open space and less secure. I would recommend to keep the "daylight" off most of the time unless you want to view the frog. When it comes to the red light providing heating, that's fine, and I do realize you mentioned about having a mister on. However, red light heating may increase evaporation more dramatically than UTH, so please pay more attention on maintaining proper humidity level inside the tank.

[Casualties138]

No offense to you, but folks generally don't learn about what's toxic to amphibians by working at the greenhouse. I'm not arguing that there are toxic plants inside your terrarium. I'm just simply making a point on that the logic may not work there.

I know that i know what i am talking about when it comes to the plants and i can guarentee that they are not toxic to my frog. I have experience in this area that exceeds just "working in a greenhouse"

[Kira Hudson]

i think what she ment was whats toxic to us and whats toxic to forgs are differnt i personly resurch every plant and item that goes in my tanks before they go in

i dont think namio ment any ill will buy here post you came and asked a question and she gave her opion thats it

[Kira Hudson]

as for lighting some weak led lights might work

[GrifTheGreat]

Daylight bulbs will burn an Albino's skin and can cause them to go blind. If necessary just move the frogs enclosure so that a little mire daylight shines in, but DO NOT place the enclosure actually near the window. so that there is no actual greenhouse effect within the enclosure. Use a UTH placed on the side of the enclosure for supplemental heat like Namio has suggested.

He is also right about any live plants. Nearly all are toxic to Amphibian especially if eaten or the juices from the ant get on their extremely sensitive skin. This can irritate the skin causing stress. Ingestion can be fatal or cause irritation of the digestive tract.

What kind of water are you using for the frog's water dish. You say de-chlorinating, but many people confuse de-chlorinated with distilled which although it contains no chlorine it also contains absolutely nothing. Distilled water is fine for misting and fog machines, but is harmful to the frog if used as a main water source. This also goes for expanding the frog's substrate. Distilled water contains no mineral/salt content that assists the frog in hydration and regular body and organ functions. It literally leaches the vitamins, minerals, and salts out of the frog slowing killing it. This will also cause severe stress.

De-chlorinated water is tap water treated with a de-chlorinating agent/water conditioner. The same stuff for fish tanks that removes chlorine, heavy metals, and Chlorimines. Your other option is All Natural Spring Water which still has the mineral/salt content, but contains no chemicals.

Are you using the correct water??

[Ra]

He is also right about any live plants. Nearly all are toxic to Amphibian especially if eaten or the juices from the ant get on their extremely sensitive skin.

Nearly all live plants are toxic to amphibians?

[Casualties138]

Daylight bulbs will burn an Albino's skin and can cause them to go blind. If necessary just move the frogs enclosure so that a little mire daylight shines in, but DO NOT place the enclosure actually near the window. so that there is no actual greenhouse effect within the enclosure. Use a UTH placed on the side of the enclosure for supplemental heat like Namio has suggested.

He is also right about any live plants. Nearly all are toxic to Amphibian especially if eaten or the juices from the ant get on their extremely sensitive skin. This can irritate the skin causing stress. Ingestion can be fatal or cause irritation of the digestive tract.

What kind of water are you using for the frog's water dish. You say de-chlorinating, but many people confuse de-chlorinated with distilled which although it contains no chlorine it also contains absolutely nothing. Distilled water is fine for misting and fog machines, but is harmful to the frog if used as a main water source. This also goes for expanding the frog's substrate. Distilled water contains no mineral/salt content that assists the frog in hydration and regular body and organ functions. It literally leaches the vitamins, minerals, and salts out of the frog slowing killing it. This will also cause severe stress.

De-chlorinated water is tap water treated with a de-chlorinating agent/water conditioner. The same stuff for fish tanks that removes chlorine, heavy metals, and Chlorimines. Your other option is All Natural Spring Water which still has the mineral/salt content, but contains no chemicals.

Are you using the correct water??

i dont know how else to make it clear, It is not the plants!, i KNOW that toxic to us is different than toxic to amphibians, I know what i am doing in that department. So that is off the table.
As for the water, I have used distilled in the past, but usually just use tap water with the dechlorinating drops you can get at the pet store...I have also heard that if you leave regular tap water sitting out for a couple days it does the same thing as the drops, just out of curiosity..is that true??
I think the problem was the light, I turned it off today and when i came home from work he was not on his back like he has been the last few days. This seems strange though because like i said I have had him for a couple years (and had that light as well) and nothing ever happened until now.
Also, Since i have a heat lamp (red light) should I also add a UTH..and if so, Ive been told not to put an UTH on the bottom of the tank...is this not correct?

[Ra]

Convulsion can be due either to toxing out from contact with high levels of ammonia in the substrate (perhaps it was kept too wet for too long, or wasnt changed when it should have been.) or from low levels of calcium in the blood.
Perhaps you should evaluate those aspects of the frogs care.



Aside from the fact that people keep repeating on the forum that Pacman frogs will seizure when stressed, I have never read this in any source that could actually confirm this being true.

[BuckeyeHerp]

I think it might be stress from too much light. Albino Cranwell's need cover and hides more than any other species. It's like walking around Cocoa Beach Florida in the middle of summer without sunglasses and sunscreen. I would put a ZooMed Habba Hut in the enclosure too. Turn off all artificial light. A ceiling lamp and indirect sunlight is fine.

[Namio]

As far as I know all evidence is by observation without an exact scientific study being performed otherwise, but with them being separate. it allows their body to absorb each individually and more successfully without having to break them all down at once.

It makes sense that feeding the two nutrients separately may allow the frog to absorb them more efficiently. But I believe it takes both calcium and vitamin in order for the frog to process those nutrients, so feeding them together also makes sense. Feeding the two nutrients separately may not allow the frog to process it then, at least not until the other nutrient is applied.

No matter what, I believe either way would work just fine.