Frog is not eating! Please, need advice or help.

[GrifTheGreat]

I have had my Female pacman frog for about 4 months now. (Since she was a size of a quarter) Lately she has not been eating, or eating VERY little. I fed her feeder fish for the last 4 months and she has had no problem digesting them or eating them. I fed her a feeder fish once a day or every two days depending on the size. Now I put the fish infront of her and she has no desire of eating. She just turns around. It's been a little over two weeks since the last time she was fed. (The fish are about half her size, sometimes a tad bigger) Then just recently I tried Crickets. I use to feed her crickets and fish for the first month I got her, and she ate about 7 crickets within an hour. I put 10 crickets, and I notice just 2 are gone within two days. And TRUST me, she's actually active for being a Pacman frog. She can seriously chase down anything she wants I always find a nice size poop even when she's not eating. So please help, her size hasn't decreased and her color is still the same so I am not too worried, but just in case something is serious, I want to know.

INFO:
She's an Inch 1/2 length and an Inch and 1/2 Width. She's not too big.
She's in a 10 gallon tank with 3 inches high of EcoEarth.
Temperature and Humidity are ALWAYS on the dot. (I always check twice a day and night. I also got the most accurate ones so I know for a fact it's not the Temp, or humidity. From 77-83 F and humidity is always around 76% to 80%)
I spray everything a few times a day with Distilled water.
I barely handle her. (I know how that stresses them out)
(Someone told me she's hibernating BUT she's always hopping around at night and sometimes during the day.)
I usually feed her at night, but also tried the day and still no eating.
There's a water dish. Also Distilled water.
There is Moss but only a huge chunk in the corner so she doesn't eat on it.
There are no plants, just a dish and moss.
and I usually clean the tank once every 2 months

Welcome to Frog Forum,

First off fish are food items used as treats not a staple food. Second, distilled water can only be used for misting and fog machines. It contains absolutely no salts or minerals that the frog needs to properly hydrate itself. It literally leaches all vitamins and minerals as well as salts and electrolytes out of the frog. You MUST use all natural spring water or tap water treated with a de-chlorinating agent like Prime or ReptiSafe for the soaking dish. These two factors are probably the main cause of her not eating.

Also I will address your frog's climate. Day time temp must be 80° to 83° and night temp 75° to 79°, but hover around 78° Humidity is fine, but 80% is ideal.

They MUST have a day/night cycle. 12 hours of day and 12 of night. They're nocturnal so all feeding should be done at night.

Cleaning the enclosure MUST be done no less than once a month. Two months is too long and the frog can become ill from ammonia buildup in the soil from its urine. This will cause the frog to Tox Out. The frog is not aestivating if it up and active.

Post some pictures of the frog and get rid of the moss. You don't know whether the frog chases crickets over onto the moss while you sleep and it could eat some. Also any live food item or items that have not been eaten should be removed every morning.

Post pics if the frog and its enclosure.

[EnjoiJakey]

Welcome to Frog Forum,

First off fish are food items used as treats not a staple food. Second, distilled water can only be used for misting and fog machines. It contains absolutely no salts or minerals that the frog needs to properly hydrate itself. It literally leaches all vitamins and minerals as well as salts and electrolytes out of the frog. You MUST use all natural spring water or tap water treated with a de-chlorinating agent like Prime or ReptiSafe for the soaking dish. These two factors are probably the main cause of her not eating.

Also I will address your frog's climate. Day time temp must be 80° to 83° and night temp 75° to 79°, but hover around 78° Humidity is fine, but 80% is ideal.

They MUST have a day/night cycle. 12 hours of day and 12 of night. They're nocturnal so all feeding should be done at night.

Cleaning the enclosure MUST be done no less than once a month. Two months is too long and the frog can become ill from ammonia buildup in the soil from its urine. This will cause the frog to Tox Out. The frog is not aestivating if it up and active.

Post some pictures of the frog and get rid of the moss. You don't know whether the frog chases crickets over onto the moss while you sleep and it could eat some. Also any live food item or items that have not been eaten should be removed every morning.

Post pics if the frog and its enclosure.

Oh wow, a lot of false information i was told from the people at the pet store. Thank you.
She does have a day and night cycle.

Thank you for all this info. Hopefully when I make all these changes I'll see a huge difference. But one question. What should I feed her daily then? What's healthy and what does a normal frog love to eat?

Also she has been the same size for a few months. How fast do they grow?
Again, thank you for your help. Much appreciated.

[BuckeyeHerp]

I would try Red Wigglers for better nutrition. Dust with Reptivite w/D3 twice a week. You will notice a greater growth rate with Red Wigglers or nightcrawlers.

[BuckeyeHerp]

I would recommend a small Amapallo plant for cover too.

[GrifTheGreat]

Improper diet can cause them to grow slowly. You also must use a Multivitamin like Herptivite once a week and a calcium powder that contains Vitamin D3 every other feeding or 3 Times a week. Don't dust with both at the same time in the same feeding. Use chunks of night crawler as the staple food source.

I recommend giving your frog a medicated bath. Go to the grocery store and buy some UNFLAVORED PEDIALYTE. It will be clear. It must be UNFLAVORED. Prepare a bath at a 10 to 1 ration. For every 10 ounces of de-chlorinated tap water or spring water add 1 ounce UNFLAVORED PEDIALYTE. The water should be Luke warm and no deeper than up to the frog's chin. Soak the frog for 15 to 20 minutes.

Perform this bath and keep me posted.

[EnjoiJakey]

Improper diet can cause them to grow slowly. You also must use a Multivitamin like Herptivite once a week and a calcium powder that contains Vitamin D3 every other feeding or 3 Times a week. Don't dust with both at the same time in the same feeding. Use chunks of night crawler as the staple food source.

I recommend giving your frog a medicated bath. Go to the grocery store and buy some UNFLAVORED PEDIALYTE. It will be clear. It must be UNFLAVORED. Prepare a bath at a 10 to 1 ration. For every 10 ounces of de-chlorinated tap water or spring water add 1 ounce UNFLAVORED PEDIALYTE. The water should be Luke warm and no deeper than up to the frog's chin. Soak the frog for 15 to 20 minutes.

Perform this bath and keep me posted.

Mmmkay, sounds great.

Thanks again and I'll definitely keep you posted after everything and using the Unflavored Pedialyte.

[Ra]

Im always astonished when I hear about frogs that are an inch and a half at 4 months. I have a female that was quarter sized when I got her in the very end of June. She is well over four inches.
What kind of feeder fish have you been using? I have found that despite the fact that these frogs eat primarily vertebrate prey in the wild, there is very little in the way of vertebrate prey offered in the pet trade that makes for a safe or healthy vertebrate diet. Feeder fish would be a great food item if not for the risk of disease and exposure to antibiotics in feeder fish. The poor conditions these fish are kept in make them an unsafe choice. Pacman food makes a great alternative, and its base ingredient is fish meal.
Considering their rapid growth rates and the fact they they do indeed eat vertebrate prey, Pacman frogs need lots of calcium to grow and maintain health. Insects, particularly crickets are very low in calcium and have a poor calcium to posphorus ratio. This can be made up for by supplementing the crickets with a calcium and D3 supplement at every feeding for a juvenile. For adults I use Calcium with every feeding, and calcium with D3 at every other feeding, as D3 overdose is possible.
Reptivite is a reptile and amphibian vitamin that includes D3, use it as directed. For a young frog I would use calcium at every feeding. The cheapest and most readily available source of calcium carbonate would be to get plain, unflavored tums and crush them up and dust the food with them.
For a younger frog, or one that is still rapidly growing, its generally better to keep them at the more intensive temperature of 80 to 85 degrees. For a more matured frog, between 77 and 82 is perfectly fine.
When seeking advice on Horned Frog care, I generally look toward the advice of both Phillipe De Vosjoli and Robert Mailloux, who played an important role in establishing Horned Frogs in captivity and have extensive experience with these animals.

[EnjoiJakey]

I would recommend a small Amapallo plant for cover too.

Thank you. I didn't want the tank to be too plain so yeah that helps. What does "Dust with Reptivite w/D3 twice a week" mean?