picky pacman?

[arielgasca420]

Ok I'm going to say this once because a lot of people have mixed feelings on how to keep their frogs and their opinions, but I for one use both UTH and Incandescent light bulbs with a lamp that has a dimmer switch.

For safety reasons as to not harm your frog NEVER USE A 100 WATT BULB!!!! That is insanely overkill. You should never go higher than 50 watts for day or night time bulbs. You can seriously harm your frog and most lamps that have a dimmer switch are not to have bulbs higher than 75 watts used in them. There are a few lamps that do go higher, but most are too big.

A UTH is not useless as it helps keep a temp gradient within the enclosure as well as allowing you to use bulbs that have concentrated beams of light that can warm the ambient air within the enclosure to the exact temp you need without turning the bulb up so high that it is dangerous for the frog. There is no exception for 100 watt bulbs they are too Powerful.

All of my frogs are kept in an enclosure that uses a UTH and Incandescent heat lamps with a dimmer switch and all bulbs are 50 watts NO higher. No matter what heat lamps will burn off humidity as the temp rises within the enclosure so you will need to solve this problem by covering 3/4 of the mesh lid with plexiglass or Sarah Wrap. DO NOT set the lamp on the Sarah Wrap. Covering the lid this way helps hold humidity and heat, but humidity will still drop so keep an eye on it. If you want to use lights and keep humidity exactly where you desire it to be then buy a Reptifogger and a Zoo Med Hygrotherm and hook the dogged up to it. The Hygrotherm will control heat and humidity units per your settings and maintain them for you. I have 3 Hygrotherm and six foggers and all my enclosures are spot on. I hope this helps to give you some ideas of what you can and should nog do when it comes to maintain your Pacman Frog's climate.

To start I have heard of people having mixed reviews for UTH and bulbs. it sometimes gets overwhelming when people go back and forth but I agree that everyone has their own opinions and personal likes from experience. My dimmer switch can withstand 125watt.
I have heard a few people say do not go over 50 watt and some people say it doesnt matter as long as you have the right bulb. What is wrong with a 100 watt if it is 20" above the frog and keeps the ambient air at 82-83 degrees? what damage would it do to the frog (if it is a night time heat bulb)
What I am getting at is people keep saying dont do this but I still dont know why I shouldnt do it. is it bad for their eyes? their skin?
My 100 watt has kept the humidity very high and the substrate is still very moist after 4 days. i also use a blanket on certain parts of the tank to keep some of the heat and moisture inside, but still let it ventilate.
I dont use UTH because it will melt the styrofoam backgroud I have in my tank and possibly cause a fire or toxic fumes if melted.
P.S. I have my 100 watt as far away as possible from the styrofoam and there has been no melting or fumes.
I personally dont use UTH because they are not appealing to the tank I spend a lot of money on and they warp after a year and lose their adhesive properties. That has been my personal experience with UTH. Im sure others love them on their rubbermaids but for now my frog is fine with the setup i have now. sometimes you have to trial and error and see what works. watch your frog's behavior carefully when you change something to the setup.

[GrifTheGreat]

To start I have heard of people having mixed reviews for UTH and bulbs. it sometimes gets overwhelming when people go back and forth but I agree that everyone has their own opinions and personal likes from experience. My dimmer switch can withstand 125watt.
I have heard a few people say do not go over 50 watt and some people say it doesnt matter as long as you have the right bulb. What is wrong with a 100 watt if it is 20" above the frog and keeps the ambient air at 82-83 degrees? what damage would it do to the frog (if it is a night time heat bulb)
What I am getting at is people keep saying dont do this but I still dont know why I shouldnt do it. is it bad for their eyes? their skin?
My 100 watt has kept the humidity very high and the substrate is still very moist after 4 days. i also use a blanket on certain parts of the tank to keep some of the heat and moisture inside, but still let it ventilate.
I dont use UTH because it will melt the styrofoam backgroud I have in my tank and possibly cause a fire or toxic fumes if melted.
P.S. I have my 100 watt as far away as possible from the styrofoam and there has been no melting or fumes.
I personally dont use UTH because they are not appealing to the tank I spend a lot of money on and they warp after a year and lose their adhesive properties. That has been my personal experience with UTH. Im sure others love them on their rubbermaids but for now my frog is fine with the setup i have now. sometimes you have to trial and error and see what works. watch your frog's behavior carefully when you change something to the setup.

Specify how the bulb is positioned. A lot of new people don't use lamp stands and to place it high above is fine. If it is an Infrared bulb kept high which is what I assume you have should pose no ill effects because it isn't bright and not close enough to dry out the enclosure or frog. Bulbs that are used goo close to the surface of the substrate can burn the frog and damage the skin as well as dry them out. UTH only seem to lose this adhesive property if the glass surface sing cleaned before the UTH is applied. They only are a fire risk if not used as directed.

All my enclosures are glass tanks and I have 6 Pacman Frogs all healthy and their climates maintained. Always look at the package of the bulbs because they should state their effective distance from the surface of the substrate. Infrared bulbs are not as bad as some basking bulbs so Yours should pose no threat to your frog.

Didn't realize how far you had it from your frog. When offering advice on something like a heat lamp and bulb wattage include the distance so that someone doesn't just place a 100 watt bulb in a lamp and sitting directly on the top of the their lid and cook their frog.

[arielgasca420]

I did explain to her/him the dimensions of my cage in a previous post and to start out with a 50 watt but once she/he told me she/he had a 75 watt and two UTH than I recommended 100 watt. hopefully lija read that part.


Lija: I have been using a R'Zilla 100 watt black night heat bulb. Remember that my enclosure is 18X18X24 and substrate is 4 inches high. this makes the distance from the frog at 20"
what I did was try it out and pay very close attention within the first two hours. I checked every 15 mins to make sure that the temp did not reach over 85. the dimmer switch helps you lower it if it does reach too high. that is all I was suggesting. This is the product and description of the product I use but always check the box! follow directions.
Marine R'Zilla 09914 Night Black Heat Incandescent Bulb, 100-Watt
Product Description: Ideal for tropical and desert habitats, the bulb provides ambient heat in which the photons emitted by the filament never escape the dark tint, heating the air inside the enclosure to create the warmth needed for a healthy reptile environment. The bulb is made from glass containing rare earth black phosphors, which simulates the moon’s natural glow for nocturnal viewing without disturbing the reptile’s day/night cycle.

[Lija]

you can refer to me as she by the way

thank you guys for your replies.

as for UTH - I have never had any problems with those, once you stick it on - it is forever there and working, at least for me on my snakes terrariums, but those are positioned on a bottoms, so may be that's why. I think I'll go with Grif advice for combining UTV and lamps, I tried it last night and liked, so once lamp is turned out the UTV is on, and vice versa- this way I got where I needed to be and when I went with Ivory reptiles advice on keeping temp not higher then 80 the humidity is ok for 2 days now.
I checked night heat lamps at the store yesterday and it looks the same as red ones, but give lower heat, I think I can stick with lower voltage for red ones, the lower it is the less you pay for electricity cos when you have 8+ tanks it might get pretty expensive so right now the temp were at 70 at night and 80 during a day, is it all right?

what do you think about heat cables? is it safe to use? if I can figure out to to stick it to the side as opposed to the bottom.

and another question - the guy refused a night crawler yesterday, but he might have been still full. and he pooped again last night, my god how much poop they can produce, unbelievable :lol: how frequently would you suggest feeding him? one worm every 2 days?

[GrifTheGreat]

you can refer to me as she by the way

thank you guys for your replies.

as for UTH - I have never had any problems with those, once you stick it on - it is forever there and working, at least for me on my snakes terrariums, but those are positioned on a bottoms, so may be that's why. I think I'll go with Grif advice for combining UTV and lamps, I tried it last night and liked, so once lamp is turned out the UTV is no, this way I got where I needed to be and when I went with Ivory reptiles advice on keeping temp in 80 the humidity is ok for 2 days now.
I checked night heat lamps at the store yesterday and it looks the same as red ones, but give lower heat, I think I can stick with lower voltage for red ones, the lower it is the less you pay for electricity cos when you have 8+ tanks it might get pretty expensive so right now the temp were at 70 at night and 80 during a day, is it all right?

what do you think about heat cables? is it safe to use? if I can figure out to to stick it to the side as opposed to the bottom.

and another question - the guy refused a night crawler yesterday, but he might have been still full. and he pooped again last night, my god how much poop they can produce, unbelievable :lol: how frequently would you suggest feeding him? one worm every 2 days?

I wouldn't go with heat cables. You would need a thermostat to keep temps in check and prevent a fire. Never place the UTH on the bottom of the tank either. Pacman Frogs are burrowers and will burrow over the UTH and possibly cook themselves because they won't understand why they can't cool off by burrowing. Best place is on the side of the tank opposite the water dish.

Offer food daily and skip a day between feedings if you like. Once your frog fully matures you can offer food every 2 days and he/she should be fine. You can dial the light down at night to keep temps in check. 70° is too cool at night you should go no lower than 76, but try and maintain a night time temp of around 78°. This should keep your frog nice and warm and active. If you want to call them active Lol! 82° Is a good day time temp so don't go higher than 82° for ideal climate.

Keep us posted on his/her progress.

[Lija]

no, the ones that I have on a bottom are for my snakes, but the thing is for my pacman right now I have 2 small sized UTH attached on a side, but even for that small tank the temp are never higher then 70, when the lamp is off, the thermometer is attached close to UTH, so it is probably even lower that 70 in the other side... hm... will try to attach another one and play with lamp dimmer to get the temp you are advising. will try to do what you're advising on a food too. hope it'll work.

thank you

[Lija]

and another question, since I'm in a war zone with this guy , if I ever get another one is it better to get smaller baby or older bigger one? does age matters as a factor in them being more difficult to feed and keeping them happy and as stress free as possible?

[arielgasca420]

and another question, since I'm in a war zone with this guy , if I ever get another one is it better to get smaller baby or older bigger one? does age matters as a factor in them being more difficult to feed and keeping them happy and as stress free as possible?

I think the babies are cute and you get to watch them grow up. I got mine at a year old and it was easier for me to feed him with tongs because he was bigger. I dont have to worry so much about MBD now that he is 2 and i dust his food a lot less now. Dusting is tricky and I am always afraid what is the right schedule to dust as they are maturing. I dust once every two weeks and gutload my crickets.

I would suggest a juvenile state only because they are less fragile. It is totally up to you though.
just keep in mind that getting another one is a long term commitment. expect to be taking care of two frogs for another 10+ years. on the flip side, pacmans are easy to rehome if it ever becomes too much for you.

[Lija]

NOOOOO! there is no way I'll part with any of my pets, that I have ... hm... probably close to 20 right now not counting fish in a tank out of those - 4 frogs. If one is getting someone as a pet - it is for life, unless you're a breeder, or foster parent - then its' different. that's my understanding. don't get people who are getting someone because they are so cute and stay cute for a year and then getting rid of them.

they say if parents deprive children of having pets, they'll most likely get a lot when they are adults - that is probably the case for our family, and we love them all!

but I must say frogs are very addictive, i got 3 more but different ones since that pacman, we were looking at albino pacman lately and there's show soon here, so I've been thinking to get a bigger terrarium, put in divider, so it is 2 tanks within one and get another pacman but that is just an idea, that may some day became a reality

[arielgasca420]

NOOOOO! there is no way I'll part with any of my pets, that I have ... hm... probably close to 20 right now not counting fish in a tank out of those - 4 frogs. If one is getting someone as a pet - it is for life, unless you're a breeder, or foster parent - then its' different. that's my understanding. don't get people who are getting someone because they are so cute and stay cute for a year and then getting rid of them.

they say if parents deprive children of having pets, they'll most likely get a lot when they are adults - that is probably the case for our family, and we love them all!

but I must say frogs are very addictive, i got 3 more but different ones since that pacman, we were looking at albino pacman lately and there's show soon here, so I've been thinking to get a bigger terrarium, put in divider, so it is 2 tanks within one and get another pacman but that is just an idea, that may some day became a reality

I agree with you on that. Most of my pets I have rescued from irresponsible owners and so I have to find them good homes now so that when I move I will have enough room. I am trying to keep my pacman and pixie but I have to downsize my other animals. I have 6 rabbits right now because I saved the mom and babies from becoming snake food, a guinea pig that someone abandoned on craigslist because her kids got bored and now they want a dog instead, and a bearded dragon and her sister that were a year old and in a ten gallon tank, both tails were waten off because of starvation!
The frogs were the only animals I have bought from a retail store and they are very addicting. I am constantly throwing down so much money to make sure they have the best environment. I am still learning and i am still a noob, but it sure is fun to learn this stuff! i look forward to people coming into my house and asking if my fat pixie is real.
I have always liked the fantasy pacmans. they have a different pattern and cool colors.
Mine is kind of plain, he is not too colorful, I would prefer one with more red, but It is hard for me to part with anything I take in. I bond too quickly to all my animals/insects.

[GrifTheGreat]

and another question, since I'm in a war zone with this guy , if I ever get another one is it better to get smaller baby or older bigger one? does age matters as a factor in them being more difficult to feed and keeping them happy and as stress free as possible?

Like Ariel said Juvenile would be best. Half dollar sized is what you want. It takes a lot more patience go care for quarter sized or less.

[GrifTheGreat]

no, the ones that I have on a bottom are for my snakes, but the thing is for my pacman right now I have 2 small sized UTH attached on a side, but even for that small tank the temp are never higher then 70, when the lamp is off, the thermometer is attached close to UTH, so it is probably even lower that 70 in the other side... hm... will try to attach another one and play with lamp dimmer to get the temp you are advising. will try to do what you're advising on a food too. hope it'll work.

thank you

Your temp gauge could be wrong too. Maybe think about buying another and see what it says. Some are not very accurate and others only work for a short time then lose calibration. Try a digital temp/hygrometer comb and see what it reads. 3 UTH would be overkill and I don't feel that to be safe. only use 2 and the lamp.

[Lija]

that is actually what I've been thinking, right now I put 3 hydrometers and 2 thermometers that I had laying around, and after 2 hours all show different things in more or less same spot. will get digital on tuesday, everything is closed here tomorrow and on Monday ( Canada day) gosh... how come nobody cares about crazy people like me who'd drive all over city to get something for their frogs :lol: for now I'll try those 2 small UTH that I have at night and lamp for a day. I wonder if it is possible to calibrate thermometer/hydrometer in general.

do you think it is ok to buy from a show? I'm thinking they sit in a plastic cups here, nowhere to hide really, everybody is looking, lifting them up in a that cup + time/stress of getting to the show, etc... we will go on opening day early am, so whoever we'll get ( if :lol shouldn't endure too much stress during actual show.

[GrifTheGreat]

that is actually what I've been thinking, right now I put 3 hydrometers and 2 thermometers that I had laying around, and after 2 hours all show different things in more or less same spot. will get digital on tuesday, everything is closed here tomorrow and on Monday ( Canada day) gosh... how come nobody cares about crazy people like me who'd drive all over city to get something for their frogs :lol: for now I'll try those 2 small UTH that I have at night and lamp for a day. I wonder if it is possible to calibrate thermometer/hydrometer in general.

do you think it is ok to buy from a show? I'm thinking they sit in a plastic cups here, nowhere to hide really, everybody is looking, lifting them up in a that cup + time/stress of getting to the show, etc... we will go on opening day early am, so whoever we'll get ( if :lol shouldn't endure too much stress during actual show.

Always inspect the animal be fore you purchase. Pacman Frogs should look rotund and their head should not be larger than their body size. A huge head and small body is a sign of a unhealthy animal.

[Lija]

hey there, so the dude is continue not eating, he ate that worm that I wrote about and ever since ( a week now) I'm offering him every night exactly like with first one with no response. I got a digital term and temp are now - 74-77 at night and 80-82 during a day, humidity is about 70-80, he had a bath again yesterday and while he was out I measured him, he is 0.188Lb and a bit over 3', he should be about a year old now, my 3 month pixie is about same size he tried to bite me thou when I was taking him out after his soak that I took as a good sign, but he refused night crawler later, at night again , then i gave him a few crickets, all still are running around.
what should I do?

[arielgasca420]

Definitely take out the crickets if they are not eaten right away. It seems that the baths and picking him up are stressing him out. Maybe ease up on the baths for now and dont handle him unless you see him starting to bury really deep in the substrate or his skin dryig out. Keep trying. He will come around.

[arielgasca420]

I was also reading about possible parasites? I think if you have the money than you should definitely have a vet examine the feces before you buy another frog.
Here is a website that suggests using flukers repta-aid and it says it stimulates hunger FROG FEEDING FEEDING FROGS AND TOADS OFFERED BY Pollywogs World of Frogs
Some people have personal negative opinions about flukers, but I think looking around at these types of products may help with appetite on top of what you are doing.
When my chameleon was sick I gave him rescue cal which is packed with vitamins, but it is a stressful process for the animal because it is a liquid that you have to get them to ingest by a syringe so I woud not suggest that for a frog

[Lija]

no, no parasites, we checked already long ago.

I think a few crickets have disappeared overnight.... will check repta-aid. I've been thinking since he is not eating he might be low on vitamins, i haven't given him Ca as well, but he ate mice.

will keep trying, for how long do you think it might to go on like that?

[Lija]

wait a minute, repti aid need to be fed to frog, HOW? if FF will freak him out, how else?

[Ra]

Like Ariel said Juvenile would be best. Half dollar sized is what you want. It takes a lot more patience go care for quarter sized or less.

and somehow....alot more food. They dont stay that small for very long.