New....Parasites HELP

[Bolisnide]

Hi there, I would say that yes, an email to the resident vet is in order if a herp vet isn't available in your area. You're right, the poo doesn't look good; both frogs should be tested for parasites. Hopefully someone in your area is able to do a fecal exam, as Dr. Frye is in the US.
The overall color of the frogs look fine to me.
Good luck, I hope they get better soon.

[frogged]

I will be isolating both frogs from each other today. In this case, will the second frog with well formed faeces be exempt from a medical test?


Both frogs are very active, jumping all over when awake, but they tend to sleep at any chance in a hide, no matter the time of the day.

I have tried small mealworms yesterday and both frogs displayed interest in the food, but I cannot yet tell if one ate the other's food because the bowls were empty this morning.

Faeces are removed immediately upon sight, area of affected paper towels are replaced immediately as well and the tank floor wiped down.

The frog in concern apparently turns dark every morning and lightens towards the night, so I think the colour is less of a concern.

[Bolisnide]

That's good the frogs are separated now.
If the frogs were mine, I would test both frogs for parasiites because they were housed together. Even the one with healthy looking stools could be sick too. I would also discontinue with the meal worms and go with a food item easier to digest, like crickets, earth worms, night crawlers. Even in a healthy white's treefrog, meal worms are an on occasion treat. The chitin (exo skeleton) is difficult to pass, and given that at least one frog is having soft stool, the mealworms should not be used until they're better.
I think the best thing to do right now is find out what is causing the soft stools, which means they need a fecal exam. That's the only way to find out precisely what is going on. In my area, I paid about 35 USD for a fecal.
Also, just so you know, white's are nocturnal, so you will only see them sleeping or hiding during the day and being active at night. And their color is always changing from dark to light. This is all normal white's behavior.
Oh, and keep dusting the food items (if your not currently, start now) with calcium every other feeding and a multi-vitamin made for herps once per week. There are many different brands on the market and all work fine.
Good luck with finding someone to perform a fecal test on each frog. I believe this is absolutely necessary at this point.

[frogged]

Yes, I used the mealworms for the purpose of checking the feeding response. Didn't think that feeding lobster roaches would be a sane option during acclimation, seeing as they move pretty fast.

There's only one clinic that deals with white's tree frogs here, and I'll have to wait till next Wednesday.

I have never been sure about the frequency of dusting. How often should this be?

[Bolisnide]

I've never used lobster roaches... so don't know about that.
It is good that the frogs seem to have an appetite. I always feel a white's with no appetite is not a good sign.
Many people have many different philosophies about dusting. I personally use a product called Repashy Calcium Plus, this product has calcium and vitamins. I dust every feeding. Others use a calcium powder every other feeding and vitamin once per week, and others dust with calcium only once per week and vitamin once per week. I feel that as long as thy're getting their calcium at least once per week and a vitamin once per week, that would probably suffice.

[Bolisnide]

I found this link on doing your own fecal exam....
Might be worth a try.
Frog Forum - How to do Fecal Exams

[frogged]

I read one account that bad looking faeces turned out to be fixed upon acclimation of a white tree frog on this forum. Is this a possibility with mine?

I will be sending faecals over nonetheless. Come'on people, chip in.

[Bolisnide]

Just realized I never answered your question on how to clean the fecal matter to maintain cleanliness. I would use just plain de-chlorinated water and clean as soon as you see it....there may be alternative products, but I'm not aware of any that may be used in an occupied enclosure.