Hi,
Mine will catnap at night after they grab a cricket.
I have found that even a red light bothers them? In fact, I have wasted lot of $$ on so called "night bulbs".
I have ALL the daytime lights on timers. They like the schedule.
Like Don said - complete darkness - is best.
I heat w/ ceramics-- very carefully
If possible use probe gauges to minitor temp & himidity
Double check the temps- make sure its warm enough and well ventilated.
If you are hand misting - just before- lights out- is a time you want to give the viv a good mist.

Force feeding is terrible ( for you and especially for the frog)
Always use wet paper towel and gloved hands( powerless gloves)
If you do no have gloves - wet hands.
Wash and rinse your hands before and after handling her and beftor going into the main or other enclosures.
I use a small, needleless, thin, 1cc syringe and gently open the mouth w/it.
( so this would have to be a syringe that the needle attaches without the plastic threading on the end)
The total food amount I push into the frogs mouth is about 2/10th of a cc. Push the plunger slowly.
I go to the corner of the mouth closest to me.
NOT the very tip of the mouth- you don't want it to trickle into the frogs lungs.
You might look at a frog anatomy photo /poster

Hold the frog slightly upright after the feeding for a few seconds, and return it to the glass. You should see the frog swallow as usual.
Like Don says , it must be soft BUT not too liquid.

I dust a small cricket w/ V&C then take the head and back legs off of it -- and squish the guts out of a wax worm.
You need to fill the syringe from the opposite end w/ the plunger out.
You don't want to use the skin of larvae- too hard to digest.

I'm not crazy about the spastic spoon idea. Maybe it works okay for a larger frog though?
I guess it is what you get used to.
The edges of the spoon are sharp ?- and then you have to hold the frog and the feeding tools!!!!

Get the metronidazole asap ! So, hopefully your DM friend can accommodate you today?

Hope all goes well !!
Lynn