Quote Originally Posted by jmor View Post
noted. thanx lija, the appropriate changes will be made! I do gutload my crickets to get some extra nutrition to the frog. Any opinion on dubia roaches? Do you dust all feeders?
Definitely follow the advise that Lija has given. I would like to elaborate on a few things.

1. The five gallon is fine for his size. Even when they are in large enclosures, they tend to return to the same two or three spots to burrow. The small enclosure can become an issue if the substrate isn't changed often enough. Horned frogs urinate a LOT. Since you have a drainage layer, he/she isn't sitting directy in his urine constantly, but it still can be a problem. In a small enclosure the urine will built up faster and cause health problems.

3. As Lija said, try to keep the humidity steady at 75-80. You will probably have to mist two or three times a day.

4. Again, Lija has provided the correct temperature range.

5. Distilled water should only be used for misting. It is ok in the smaller amounts that misting provides. However, distilled water has no minerals in it. When the frog is exposed to only distilled water for extended periods of time, the water will actually pull nutrients out of the frog causing health problems. Lose of appetite and malnourishment is a very common result. Use de-chlorinated water for his water dish and for expanding the substrate. De-chlorinator is fairly cheap and with one frog a bottle should last you months.

6. Do you have a terrarium carpet or something along those lines to separate the gravel from the substrate? Because these are burrowing frogs, they tend to make a mess of things. The gravel will get mixed in with the substrate as time goes one. Gravel does pose a risk of impaction if swallowed. Often in their enthusiasm to get their food, they will also swallow whatever is around the food. Coco fiber passes through their system much easier, hence why it is the recommended substrate for them.

7. Same with moss; it also causes a risk for impaction. Does your frog tongs feed? This will reduce the risk of swallowing unwanted substances.

8. Crickets are ok, but not ideal. Nightcrawlers are the best staple diet. They are also must easier to keep than crickets. Please note that any feeder taken from outside carries the risk of containing pesticides or parasites. Better safe than sorry. Wax worms are ok for a treat but not as a staple. Their skin does not usually get digested by the frog. So don't be surprised if you see a couple of wax worms skins (kind of like deflated balloons) in the next bowel movement. Dubias are good for them, but some Pacs are picky about eating them. Only a couple of mine will even eat them. As a result I have an out of control dubia colony! Yikes!

10. Consider getting a lamp. I highly recommend getting one with a dimmer switch so that you can tweak the temp. Try a Fluker's 5.5" or 8.5" clamp lamp with a dimmer switch. Do not go above 50 watt bulbs. 50 or less and use a Exo-Terra 75% intense basking light bulb or something similar for day. The concentrated beam allows you to add supplemental heat without dialing the bulb up full blast. Use infrared at night. Both should be of the same wattage.

Please post pictures as soon as possible. Keep us posted.