Filled with air?

[NatureLady]

I would dare say your Ollie is overweight. My biggest thoughts from your thread are that you need a bigger tank with more chances to climb and a change in feeding habits. I also think that you need to change the bedding/substrate material in whatever tank Ollie is in. Bark chunks like those in the (SUPER ADORABLE) frogbutt picture can pose a concern for impaction. Especially since you allow Ollie to hunt his food (I did read that, right?). Impaction can lead to even bigger froggy problems.

[Bolisnide]

First I'd like to say that you are welcome on the forum and that everyone here only wants what's best for your frog. Please don't take anything personally. You've had your frog for a while, and that is definitely a good sign that most things in his enclosure are fine. But to ensure his long life and health, the advice above should be followed.

I agree that your frog is a little on the heavy side, though I've seen fatter! It's really not healthful for the frog to be overweight. I feed my adult whites's 3 appropriately sized crickets (about the size of between his eyes) every other day, and a red wiggler about once per week. And he's borderline over weight. I also dust with Repashy Calcium plus every other feeding.
I have my frog in a 33 gallon tall tank (exo-terra 18x18x24). He gets lots and lots of excercise at night climbing on the branches and vines I have in there. I also have 3 snake plants, a pothos, and one ficus that he has beat up pretty bad with all his jumping around. Your white's would appreciate some extra verticle space. Craigslist is a great resource for used enclosures/aquariums. And as Omar has said, you can turn a horzontal tank on side for the xtra height.

And, as others before me have said, get rid of the moss and bark as those pose an impaction risk. White's dive bomb for their food and always inevitibly eat some substrate. A good substrate (I've found) is the coco fiber and leaf litter atop that. You can find live oak leaf litter at www.Joshsfrogs.com and www.blackjungle.com. Carpet moss (the kind that grows like carpet on the enclosure floor) is really wonderful, but I have never been able to keep it alive...
Also, invest in a $2.00 Hygrometer. It's important for white's to have the proper humidity.... not too high and not too low (about 70 degrees). I live in a very desert climate, and only need to mist twice or three times per day (during the colder months, when I run a ceramic heater, I mist more oftern).

So, if your frog is pooping and eating, I don't believe his big belly is caused from impaction... he could be retaining water from high humidity?

Anyway, good luck! He is so adorable! If you have any other questions, this is the place to ask. I've learned a lot from this forum!

[S13]

I think moss could be wonderful if you take precautions. Like for example, I feed out of the glass bowl so crickets cant escape, thus no risk of my frogs taking moss to the face while munching.

[Bolisnide]

I think moss could be wonderful if you take precautions. Like for example, I feed out of the glass bowl so crickets cant escape, thus no risk of my frogs taking moss to the face while munching.

Yes, that is very true... Thanks for adding that point!

[Pandamanda111]

The crickets in a glass bowl idea is a good one! How would Ollie climb in though? It would either be too high for him to get in, or too low and the bugs would get out. Right?

[Bolisnide]

Do you mean, cleaning of the new tank? if so, I used a very diluted solution of bleach and water (like 1/2 cap bleach in a gallon of water). Rinse, Rinse, Rinse, let air dry several days..
I bought the drift wood for aquariums for my tank. Some suggest you bake it a low temps, though I never did that. I just rinsed well and let air dry.
I have plants in the substrate and in pots. The thing with live plants is you need to rinse very well (including the roots) to get the fertilizer off the plant and vermiculite out of the soil. It's easier to plant in a clean pot with coco fiber. Don't put in your vivarium for maybe a couple weeks to ensure the fertilizer and pesticides are out.
For heating I use both a ceramich heat emitter (on very cold nights) and a UTH (under tank heater) stuck to the side of the tank on the outside. My frog hates any kind of light at night, so I don't use the purple or red lights at night.
For the glass bowl feeding method, you only need a small glass bowls (like 2 inches high at most and 2 inch diameter), amazingly the crickets don't know how to get out, and if they do, they always end up back in the bowl. This is a great way to monitor your frog's food intake and ensure he won't eat any substrate. I personally feed my frog with my fingers, for me it's easier...
As far as afording a larger enclosure. I have seen some really good deals in the paper and craigslist on used aquariums. Just browse the classifieds occasionally and see if anything shows up!
Hope this helps, and if any others have better/additional advise, please chime in!
Hope this helps answer yoru questions.

[Pandamanda111]

Do you mean, cleaning of the new tank? if so, I used a very diluted solution of bleach and water (like 1/2 cap bleach in a gallon of water). Rinse, Rinse, Rinse, let air dry several days..
I bought the drift wood for aquariums for my tank. Some suggest you bake it a low temps, though I never did that. I just rinsed well and let air dry.
I have plants in the substrate and in pots. The thing with live plants is you need to rinse very well (including the roots) to get the fertilizer off the plant and vermiculite out of the soil. It's easier to plant in a clean pot with coco fiber. Don't put in your vivarium for maybe a couple weeks to ensure the fertilizer and pesticides are out.
For heating I use both a ceramich heat emitter (on very cold nights) and a UTH (under tank heater) stuck to the side of the tank on the outside. My frog hates any kind of light at night, so I don't use the purple or red lights at night.
For the glass bowl feeding method, you only need a small glass bowls (like 2 inches high at most and 2 inch diameter), amazingly the crickets don't know how to get out, and if they do, they always end up back in the bowl. This is a great way to monitor your frog's food intake and ensure he won't eat any substrate. I personally feed my frog with my fingers, for me it's easier...
As far as afording a larger enclosure. I have seen some really good deals in the paper and craigslist on used aquariums. Just browse the classifieds occasionally and see if anything shows up!
Hope this helps, and if any others have better/additional advise, please chime in!
Hope this helps answer yoru questions.

Thanks for that helpful reply!
for cleaning, I actually meant after the frog is already in. how often should I take everything out and wash it?
Do I have to use live plants, or can I do fake?
The problem isn't the enclosure's price, it's the size. We have no room for a 20 gallon tank for him! we'll see what we can do, but I'm afraid 10 gallons will be the best we can do right now.

[Pandamanda111]

I will definitely beg my parents, but I'm not sure if they'll go for anything over 10 gallons I can try though! Maybe I'll save up, just for my little olliefrogboy a few questions:
-how after should I do a complete cleaning of his terrarium?
-do I need to get driftwood,mor is some sort of fake wood or something okay? I have a cave for him, which he climbs on.
-how do you guys plant live plants in the terrarium? You must need a lot of substrate!
-what do you guys use for heating? Ollie's terrarium has a hood with one purple (heat) bulb, and one white lightbulb.

Feel free to give me any advice, I'd really appreciate it. I won't take anything personally, you guys are very kind and helpful!
thanks a ton!

Ps-I do get quite a kick out of his chubby little bottom!