Need some advice on keeping my humdity up!

[Froggiefressh]

Hi everyone, I hope I'm posting this in the right thread. I find myself misting my pac man's tank all the time(meaning more then like 5 or 6 times a day). I use a CHE which I'm guessing is the problem. My house is pretty cold in the winter, like right now its 66 degrees Fahrenheit on the thermastat. Now before I got my pac man I ran test CHE bulbs and fixtures to see which would get the temp. to where I needed it. The CHE I decided to use and worked the best to keep the tank between 78-81 was a 100 watt CHE bulb by all living things. I seen a few post where people said don't use any bulb above 50 wattage, but If I didn't the temp. would be way to cold for my poor little pac man. I have the light on one side of the tank(where my little guy's favorite and only spot is) and on the other side I used clear plastic wrap to try to keep up the humdity up. Any ideas on what I should do? When I get a chance I want to try a few other light bulbs to see if I can keep the temp right and not use such a powerful bulb. Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[KingCam]

Try using an under-tank heat pad or heat cable instead of a high wattage bulb. Then you could cover more of the tank to hold in humidity.

Heat Pads, Heat Panels, Heat Cable & Rocks

[BigBlue83]

i have tyhe same problem. I live in new england (ct) and winters are cold. i have to mist all the time as well, and its hard because i work monday through friday. I have a heating pad, and that doesnt do it by itself, so im forced to use an infrared bulb. which drys out the tank too. i did the plastic wrap thing, helped slightly. my pac is never out of the ground always burrowing and i think its because of the humidity issue. so this is what ive done and have noticed a large difference. so much so my pac has stayed out from burrowing for two days straight. even went to her water dish and sat for 45 min.
at lows they sell plexiglass. i bought a piece that was 14 inch long and 12 inch wide. well i scored the edge with a razor blade a couple times till it was deep enough that i could snap the excess off. i have a ten gallon to the 14 inch length fit good perfect actually as to still leave space for air. i cut it width wise just enough so it would sit on the inside lip that fish tanks naturally have. then i just sit the caged lid on top. the plexi glass isnt thick enough to disturb the cage cover and it sits perfect almost as having the tank have four sides. now my heat stays in there. another option would to be get the measurements and go to a glass place and have them cut i piece of glass to sit right in on those notches.... when i get home i will take photos to show you as well. good luck

[Heatheranne]

Yep, that's what I did . Had glass cut to fit the same way. If you spray and cover it works well.

[Froggiefressh]

Thank you guys for the advice, Kingcam in my opinion I do not trust the under-tank heat pads and my pac man burrows to escape the heat from what I've been told that would cause him to bury straight towards the heat instead. Bigblue That is such a great idea! I am going to do this without a doubt. What would be better to use plexi or glass? Heather what do you mean by spray and cover it?

[KingCam]

Kingcam in my opinion I do not trust the under-tank heat pads and my pac man burrows to escape the heat from what I've been told that would cause him to bury straight towards the heat instead.

You could buy a low wattage heat cable/cord and experiment with that. They are incredibly adaptable. You could wrap it around a limb made to hang above his head, you could attach it to the side or back of your tank, you could even just lay one across the top of the tank to see if the heat goes far enough down to benefit your frog. What if you attached it to the bottom side of your lid? Then the heat would be trapped in the enclosure, but the source of the heat would be above head, and burrowing would still provide relief if he's trying to escape the heat.

I have a few heat cables at home, and I honestly dunno what I'd do without them.

Zoo Med 11.5 foot Repti Heat Cable

[Froggiefressh]

Oh I see whatch you mean. That is pretty awsome, I haven't seen those before surprisingly hah. I think I will experiment with that and see what I come up with! thanks Kingcam =)

[KingCam]

Oh I see whatch you mean. That is pretty awsome, I haven't seen those before surprisingly hah. I think I will experiment with that and see what I come up with! thanks Kingcam =)

Good luck Let us know what you decide on and if it works!

[GrifTheGreat]

You could buy a low wattage heat cable/cord and experiment with that. They are incredibly adaptable. You could wrap it around a limb made to hang above his head, you could attach it to the side or back of your tank, you could even just lay one across the top of the tank to see if the heat goes far enough down to benefit your frog. What if you attached it to the bottom side of your lid? Then the heat would be trapped in the enclosure, but the source of the heat would be above head, and burrowing would still provide relief if he's trying to escape the heat.

I have a few heat cables at home, and I honestly dunno what I'd do without them.

Zoo Med 11.5 foot Repti Heat Cable

Cameron, if Greg uses Heat cable he will have to hook it up to a thermostat. Heat tape and heat cables get really hotm much hotter than a UTH. That being said he should use a UTH, but you do NOT place it on the bottom of the tank. You place it on the side of the tank and be sure its the opposite side of the water dish. Heat tape and heat cable is best used for rack systems for multiple amphibian and reptiles not for just one tank. Too dangerous and you could cook your frog without a thermostat not to mention the glass will be much hotter from heat tape or heat cables than a UTH.

Just buy a UTH and place it on the side of your tank Greg. You'll be better off and a lot less hastle.

[KingCam]

Cameron, if Greg uses Heat cable he will have to hook it up to a thermostat. Heat tape and heat cables get really hotm much hotter than a UTH.

We must be talking about two different heat cables. The one I linked to is only 15 watts.

They come in 15 watts, 25 watts, 50 watts, 100 watts, and 150 watts. I'm sure you're right about needing a thermostat for the higher wattage ones. All I know is I use the 15 watt cables, plugged directly into the wall, and I've never had any problems with tanks overheating.

I've had UTH's melt a plastic roach bin before, but my heat cables won't even melt electrical tape (that's what I use to secure them in place a lot of times).

Heat tape and heat cable is best used for rack systems for multiple amphibian and reptiles not for just one tank.

In the case of the 50 foot cables, yes, I agree. However, the one I linked to only has 5 feet of hot cable. I can't see how anyone would use 5 ft of cable to heat more than one enclosure. In my opinion these small, low wattage cables were designed for single tank applications.

HOWEVER! I don't want to be responsible for Greg cooking his frog, so maybe he should just take your advice and forget I said anything.

[GrifTheGreat]

We must be talking about two different heat cables. The one I linked to is only 15 watts.

They come in 15 watts, 25 watts, 50 watts, 100 watts, and 150 watts. I'm sure you're right about needing a thermostat for the higher wattage ones. All I know is I use the 15 watt cables, plugged directly into the wall, and I've never had any problems with tanks overheating.

I've had UTH's melt a plastic roach bin before, but my heat cables won't even melt electrical tape (that's what I use to secure them in place a lot of times).

In the case of the 50 foot cables, yes, I agree. However, the one I linked to only has 5 feet of hot cable. I can't see how anyone would use 5 ft of cable to heat more than one enclosure. In my opinion these small, low wattage cables were designed for single tank applications.

HOWEVER! I don't want to be responsible for Greg cooking his frog, so maybe he should just take your advice and forget I said anything.

A UTH melting electrical tape and a plastic tote was probably due to a malfunction. Normally they do not get that hot, but if you accidentally damage the really fine wireing that is contained within the UTH they will either stop working all together or overheat causing fires or as you said melt what they are attached to. That's why its reccomender to throw them away and not reuse them if you have removed them from an enclosure to place on another. The wireing inside is too easily damaged.

The 15 watt cable is probably fine, but UTH are only like 4 to 8 watts and can become pretty hot so heat tape and cable of a higher wattage may become too hot. It is a good idea and I'm not bashing it Cam. Just better safe than sorry you know.

[KingCam]

The 15 watt cable is probably fine, but UTH are only like 4 to 8 watts and can become pretty hot so heat tape and cable of a higher wattage may become too hot.

Really? So under normal circumstances it would be okay to attach a UTH to a plastic storage bin? I've honestly been scared to use UTH's since that happened.

I have another question for you, then. I have a wood enclosure. Well it's actually pressed particle board. Would it be okay to attach a UTH to the bottom of it? What's the best heating option for a wood enclosure?

It is a good idea and I'm not bashing it Cam. Just better safe than sorry you know.

For sure, no worries. Life would be incredibly boring if I were right all the time :P

[Froggiefressh]

Yeah soo I'm kinda worried to try either one now. Cables can get too hot and UTH can cause fires..

[GrifTheGreat]

Really? So under normal circumstances it would be okay to attach a UTH to a plastic storage bin? I've honestly been scared to use UTH's since that happened.

I have another question for you, then. I have a wood enclosure. Well it's actually pressed particle board. Would it be okay to attach a UTH to the bottom of it? What's the best heating option for a wood enclosure?


For sure, no worries. Life would be incredibly boring if I were right all the time :P

You can only use a UTH for plastic if the packaging for the UTH says that it is safe for plastic. Wood is a definate no go. Particle board would be like throwing starter fluid on a hot coal Lol! Its just not a good idea.

[GrifTheGreat]

Yeah soo I'm kinda worried to try either one now. Cables can get too hot and UTH can cause fires..

If your enclosure is glass use UTH made by Zoo Med. Make sure you buy the right one for the size enclosure you have. They make them for many sizes. You should have no problems with a glass enclosure.

[KingCam]

You can only use a UTH for plastic if the packaging for the UTH says that it is safe for plastic. Wood is a definate no go. Particle board would be like throwing starter fluid on a hot coal Lol! Its just not a good idea.

lol, that's what I figured. At one point I had considered cutting a big hole in the bottom and siliconing a piece of glass in so I can attach a heater.

Okay, I'll stop hijacking the thread now. My bad, Greg :P

[BigBlue83]

i have a ten gallon UTH that is 8 whatts and it only brings my temp to about 76. by the way i have it on the back side opposite the water. as grif said if your tank is glass it wont be a problem. as far as whats better glass or plexiglass. not sure, i know the piece i bought was only 4 dollars and when you peel away the protecting layer, its clear! and when doing feeding or misting or cleaning the tank you dont have to worry about getting broken glass.

[Sissy Anne]

With regards to the humidity issue... I also used to have to spray my enclosure constantly. After getting stuck on the side of the road in a snow storm last year (the big one that hit NYC in Jan... I was in my car covered in snow somewhere in Delaware for about 36 hours) and didn't get home to turn off the heat lamp or mist the enclosure, I decided to automate.

I got a fogger from Petsmart and an aquarium timer. It took some trial and error, but I figured out how often the fogger needed to come on, and at what setting, in order to maintain the humidity within the ideal range for my frogs (for me... lowest setting, on for fifteen minutes, off for thirty during the day and just on once at night). It was an investment of less than $30. I also have my day/night lights on timers now, too. I have to refill the fogger once every three days. No more spraying! So easy. TOTALLY worth the money.

(btw, I was able to get someone to the house the next morning while snowed in. The heat lamp had been on all night and the enclosure was very arid, but everyone survived the night).

[KingCam]

It was an investment of less than $30.

How did you manage that? Most timers are $15 minimum, and I've never seen a fogger system for less than $45 (usually closer to $80 or $90). I'd be VERY interested in adding a fogger to multiple enclosures if I could do it for less than $30 per tank.

[Sissy Anne]

How did you manage that? Most timers are $15 minimum, and I've never seen a fogger system for less than $45 (usually closer to $80 or $90). I'd be VERY interested in adding a fogger to multiple enclosures if I could do it for less than $30 per tank.

You're right. My mistake. It was less than 30$ for me because of a sale + coupon. The fogger I have retails for about twice that. (I just looked it up). My timer is one of the single plug-in cheapies, not the power cords with timers sold in reptile sections (THOSE are like $30+). The one I have is less than 10$. Check Petsmart.