I've recently aquired a 60 watt ceramic heat emitter. I've never used one before, but I've heard that they are good that. They are good for heating and not burning off humidity. The problem is that it says on the box that it can only be used with a wire lamp. I'm hoping that this isn't entirely true and that I can use it with one of my dome dimmer lamps.
So does anyone know if I can use this ceramic heat emitter with a dimmer lamp and. Not have to go out and buy ANOTHER lamp. Does anyone know for sure?
I'm not sure what a wire lamp and a dimmer lamp is, but the main problem with ceramic heaters is that the get hot. Really hot. Like, it will melt lamp sockets made of anything else than ceramic. So, what you want is a ceramic lamp socket. Most (if not all) reptiles lamp domes have this, like Exo-terras or Zoo meds. If you could explain what you have a little bit more, I could perhaps be of more help![]()
I have Fluker's clamp Lamp with dimmer. They are 5.5 inch clamp lamps. They do have ceramic sockets, but I'm wondering if the dome will also get too hot since I don't use a lamp stand and set the dome right on the metal screen lid. Is this enough info?![]()
Also a wire lamp is a lamp fixture that has a metal cage around the socket instead of a dome shade.
The dome will get very hot. You will get burn if trying to lift it by the dome (at least in everything over half power). However, it's not dangerous if left untouched, so I would say go for it. Just make sure you (or a curious cat) don't touch it when operating!
Ah, of course, silly me. Thanks!
Ha ha I figured that you knew what I was talking about and it just didn't dawn on you yet.anyway I assume that it calls for the wire lamp due to the amount of heat produced and the wire cage breathes way more than the dome shade does. Might have to invest in a lamp stand. Hmmmmm
A lamp stand is never a bad idea, but I don't think you really need one, unless the terrarium you are using it for is very low/short. The metal screen mesh will not take any damage from the heat. I'm actually using a ceramic heat bulb with a dome lamp, standing on the metal mesh, in my dubia plastic bin. Works like a charm![]()
The mesh do not get that warm actually. I'm guessing the mesh-attribute does not allow much of the heat to actually be absorbed by it. When using it on a 12 inches tall terrarium, you probably want to dimm it, but since the lamp already have a built-in dimmer, that's not a problem
(Just two little side questions:
1. What's considered a "standard 10 gallon" in the USA?
2. What kind of animal are going to be heated by the lamp?)
This way I could heat the tank without burning off much humidity. I do fine humidity wise due to having a Zoo Med Hygrotherm with. Zoo Med Reptifogger hooked up to it. My lights I keep on a seperate timer for day night cycle. Just figure i0on the nights that I don't need to feed I can use the emitter since I really don't need to see as well when not feeding my frogs.
I see. Just a little thing to note (which you probably already know). As the temperature rises, the humidity readings (being relative) will fall even with a ceramic bulb.
Hi Grif and Martin,
My enclosure in my basement. It is 65 degrees and 35 % humidity down there in the winter.
The summer is easy ( but very different)--- the winter is a struggle!
I HAD a 75w ceramic above the enclosure at one point this winter. It made the top so hot! I moved it - suspended it from a ceiling rafter, aimed it toward the glass ---about 6-7 inches away, 1/2 way down the enclosure/glass . Aiming it toward the 'mid-way' made a huge difference! Kind of like a side mounted heating pad. It seems to diffuse the heat more evenly. Just keep an eye on the glass temp( by touching it). I check the heat on the glass --from the inside of the enclosure. I put foil around the back of a dome shade in the shape of a big arch; this directs the heat toward the enclosure! It looks terrible, but it works. W/out the foil , I find the heat is lost. Note: My dome fixture has a ceramic base to screw the bulb into.
I think lamp stand idea would work great !!! It would be very adjustable!
Lynn
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
Thanks for the info Lynn. I was afraid of the top becoming hot, but Pacman frogs don't climb so that won't be to much of an issue. Ill have to come up with some testing without involving the frogs for safety. I plan on actually upgrading Grif to a larger Exo Terra square terrarium. More ground space to work with and possibly some live plants like a Pothos. Not sure. Will get what I want and set it up and experimant with it for a few days.
Having two identical setups, where the only difference is that one is warmer than the other (even if it's not heated by a lamp, just ambiently warmer), the warmer setup will read a lower value on a hygrometer, since relative humidity just measures what percentages of water vapor that is present, in regards to how much water vapor that it can hold as maximum at that temperature). That means that heat does not necessarily always "burns" humidity way, but instead increases the highest amount of water that can be hold, and therefore lowers the percentages shown on a hygrometer. That being said, heat can of course cause a dryer environment and reduce the humidity readings that way as well (actually reducing the water vapor levels). Unfortunately, I do not how much difference actual visible light affects the drying-out process.Originally Posted by GrifTheGreat
I'm sorry, this is hard to explain for me in English. And it's not getting easier when it's 01:30 in the night, and I've worked the entire day...
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
No worries Martin. I understand relative humidity and my Hygrotherm reads relative humidity. Its a pretty cool device. Even converts Fereinheight to Celcius on the digital gauge. Has a lot of settings to use. Its a great investment. Once it drops below the set percentage it kicks a fogger on. My infrared lights tend to burn off less humidity than my daylight basking lights. This one reason that I have observed that infrared may not remove as much humidity if there is no actual light produced. Not exactly sure how it works, but its a good thing to think about.
I worked all day too. I start feeling really tired around this time. Its 7:42 pm here.
Grif time to go BIG TIME and get one of these bad boys
EcoZone Vivarium - Vivarium Controllers provide Naturalistic Habitats for Reptiles and Herps. Programmable proportional Temperature, Lighting, and Mister Control
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