Illuminating a question

[Heatheranne]

I use a 50 watt infrared on a dimmer for both of my pacs. Then you can adjust the heat and light easily .

[Surrealasm]

I use a 50 watt infrared on a dimmer for both of my pacs.

What style/brand of dimmer do you use?

[Sue H]

I had the same question when I was getting my frog. He doesn't need flourescent light, it will hurt his eyes. I think that pet shop people are trained to say "UVB flourescent" no matter what animal you're getting! I got a 50 watt infrared bulb and a zoo med repti temp control dimmer, the dimmer cost around 20 bucks or so and does the job, I keep it on low and that keeps the warm side of the tank at about 80 degrees. If you dust your frog's food with calcium that has vitamin D3 in it he's fine.

[GrifTheGreat]

I believe Heatheranne and Sue have answered your questions.

If you don't want to use infrared you can buy a Exo Terra Sun Glo bulb that has a concentrated beam of light. You don't have to turn them up high to produce the ambient air heat due to the light being concentrated. I always recomend plant cover whether it be fake or live when using lights. Frogs that are nocturnal naturaly seek shelter from sunlight so you should provide this cover for them in their home as well. You can buy a ceramic heat emitter which is a bulb that doesn't produce light. It only produces heat. You also want to use a dimmer switch with these as well because they get pretty hot.

If the location your frog is in the house provides plenty of natural light then you can use infrared or the ceramic heat emitter and they will still have their 12 hour day/night cycle intact. The basking lights like the Sun Glo I mentioned can provide light and heat and also help with the day/night cycle if the room is dim and doesn't provide much light. As long as you have the dimmer lamp you shouldn't have to worry about cooking your frog because you can control the output.

Please note that lights burn off humidity. You will have to mist a few extra times per day to keep humidity levels within the 70 to 80% range.

[Surrealasm]

I love this forum, you guys are as concise and informative as a team of university sponsered herpatoligists...

One last question about the dimmer, wondering if they make one that can sense the ambient temperature of the room and then adjust accordingly.
See, I live in Texas, and our weather is a little bit unpredictable. In fact, there's a saying we have... "If you don't like the weather, just wait for about 20 minutes"
I don't want to bake my frogs alive, or leave them huddled and shivering... Is using my A/C and central heat as a buffer the best choice, or is there an item that can modify my lamps' intensity?

[GrifTheGreat]

I love this forum, you guys are as concise and informative as a team of university sponsered herpatoligists...

One last question about the dimmer, wondering if they make one that can sense the ambient temperature of the room and then adjust accordingly.
See, I live in Texas, and our weather is a little bit unpredictable. In fact, there's a saying we have... "If you don't like the weather, just wait for about 20 minutes"
I don't want to bake my frogs alive, or leave them huddled and shivering... Is using my A/C and central heat as a buffer the best choice, or is there an item that can modify my lamps' intensity?

A/C is bad. You do not want any drafts what so ever. It does something to the frogs. They will stop eating. I believe that A/C produces a cold draft when it enters the tank and even though your gauges may read correct the glass itself will also be cool due to the ambient room air being so. Always keep you frogs enclosure away from A/C vents.

Your homes heat is another thing all together. It waont harm the frog other than causing humidity drops frequently due to there being no moisture in the warming of the air in your home. Warm ambient room temp is good, but dry. I'm not sure if they have a dimmer out there that automatically adjusts to temps. The Zoo Med Hygrotherm is close to this idea. It will control humidity and temp levels within the frogs home by turning on and off foggers and heat units. I use it for humidity levels combined with Zoo Med Reptifogger. You set the temps and humidity levels you want to maintain and the unit will turn the fogger on when humidity drops below your ideal range and it will turn aditional heating units on if it gets too cool and tturn them off if it gets too warm.

It will also (if you provide cooling fans) turn the fans on to cool the tank. You can also purchase a misting unit for humidity if not a fogger.

This may be an option that you might want to invest in. I just use it for humidity levels and it reads the temps for me. I have my lights on a seperate timer that has a 12 hour cycle.

[Sue H]

Big Apple Herp sells a thermostat for under 50 bucks if all you want to control is the heat, but as Grif says the Hygrotherm controls both heat and humidity if you hook it up to a Reptifogger. It's a litte more expensive.