Hello, New pixie owner

[En333]

Welcome to the forum!

[Motob3000]

Thanks Mike for all the helpful information. I thought 8-9" was too deep. I think I will use a piece of plexi glass with holes drilled in it and make a platform that will cover the water area and sit in at an adjustable depth. I can adjust it as he grows. I will install the heater so it is 6" below the frog. That's a good way to keep him away from it. I understand the simplicity and effectiveness of using a plastic bowl that can be dumped in the toilet and flushed. Probably doesn't get much more cost effective than that. However, when I got the frog I was looking forward to creating a little eco system for him. I'm still in the planning stages so we will see what happens after I put the tank together. It could be too much hassle and expense. I figure I can remove the larger peices of waste with a net and remove/replace a portion of the dirty water daily to keep the ammonia concentration to a minimum. Sometimes I change my frogs dish twice a day or more. Somedays I dont have the time to change it three times a day.

I think I will pick up some earth worms next time I go by walmart. Crickets at Petco were .14 cents a piece! Thanks Again for your help and information. I will update this post on Jan. 6 with his new weight as well as some pictures.

Thanks,
Ben

[Mentat]

Welcome to Frog Forum and congrats on new African Bullfrog! If you look around on this section can find other's mixed water/dry set-ups. A few points mostly based on my aquarium experience.

- No fish recommended; they are just a source of disease and parasites.

- Ammonia is only a problem in an unfiltered or new set-up filter tank. Once nitrifying bacteria colonize the filter's biological section the bacteria will reduce ammonia into nitrites (1/2 as bad) and then nitrates (not bad unless very concentrated (more than 50 PPM). You then lower nitrates with weekly water changes (% depending on your tank and frog size). Can get a nitrates test kit if interested in tracking your actual levels and adjust water changes accordingly. Normally it takes around a month to get a good colony established in system. Can reduce that to around a week with a commercial product like Seachem's Stability. Do not recommend products that will lower ammonia, since they will sequester nitrites from your bacteria colony and starve them to death, resulting in biological system crashes. There are products that state will instantly cycle a tank (i.e. Biospira) but they are $$$. Have to do partial daily water changes until your ammonia level stays at zero. Do use a good water conditioner for starting your tank and all water changes.

- Your filter (canister right?) should work OK and as long as you keep lower than tank (floor level if tank is in stand), gravity will provide water flow to it. Starting the flow might take a bit of work due to tanks low water level but it's doable. When changing water do rinse your filter media in removed tanks water (tap will kill good bacteria) and do not replace all media at the same time. I do not use carbon (too aggressive removing stuff from water) unless removing medicine in my fish tanks; but that is up to you. Do rinse it well because it's powder is an irritant.

- Do estimate the actual volume of water in set-up and then get a heater recommended for that volume (not for tanks total volume). There are many out there but in my opinion; can't go wrong with an Eheim. They are sturdy, totally submersible and highly efficient. Set it up so frog can't reach it and route electric cable so frog can't bite it.

Good luck!

[Motob3000]

Mentat,
Thank you for all of your specific information. I know there are a lot of things I still need to learn and when I set up my breeder tank I can refer to the information you provided me. I have put feeder fish in his bowl before, but they didn't last long. Sounds like they dont have any business in a abf tank. I just weighed the little guy today. Last week was 22gr. He now weighs 50gr! Including a pic I took right after weigh in.

Thanks again for the helpful information.

[Mentat]

Mentat,
Thank you for all of your specific information. I know there are a lot of things I still need to learn and when I set up my breeder tank I can refer to the information you provided me. I have put feeder fish in his bowl before, but they didn't last long. Sounds like they dont have any business in a abf tank. I just weighed the little guy today. Last week was 22gr. He now weighs 50gr! Including a pic I took right after weigh in.

Thanks again for the helpful information.

You are welcome; glad to be of help! Yep, their growth rate is phenomenal. Got Stilgar, my ABF, back in November 10 at close to 2 in. and nearing two months later it's reaching 6 in. SVL!

[Eel Noob]

Welcome to the forum

[Motob3000]

Update...

I woke up last night to the sound of a male bullfrog croaking very loudly!! Diesel now weighs 120 grams! He has gone into beast mode after molting. I saw him pulling some skin off of the front of his face about two weeks ago.. Since then his jaw seems wider and he's been more aggressive at feeding. Poor Diesel is still in his original tank. Almost done setting up his breeder land/water setup. I bought a fluval 206 and its working great so far. My 50 watt aqueon pro heater doesn't seem up to the task, two days now and its still not at temp. Ordering 100w version tomorrow. Waiting for screen top, rocks, heat pad, different heater, and a uvb bulb will be on its way soon. He's atleast 3in svl. Is it time to change his feedings from daily to every other or every 2-3 days.

Thanks for all the help and information. His terrarium will be finished soon and Ill post pics.

B

[Motob3000]

- Ammonia is only a problem in an unfiltered or new set-up filter tank. Once nitrifying bacteria colonize the filter's biological section the bacteria will reduce ammonia into nitrites (1/2 as bad) and then nitrates (not bad unless very concentrated (more than 50 PPM). You then lower nitrates with weekly water changes (% depending on your tank and frog size). Can get a nitrates test kit if interested in tracking your actual levels and adjust water changes accordingly. Normally it takes around a month to get a good colony established in system. Can reduce that to around a week with a commercial product like Seachem's Stability. Do not recommend products that will lower ammonia, since they will sequester nitrites from your bacteria colony and starve them to death, resulting in biological system crashes. There are products that state will instantly cycle a tank (i.e. Biospira) but they are $$$. Have to do partial daily water changes until your ammonia level stays at zero. Do use a good water conditioner for starting your tank and all water changes.

- Your filter (canister right?) should work OK and as long as you keep lower than tank (floor level if tank is in stand), gravity will provide water flow to it. Starting the flow might take a bit of work due to tanks low water level but it's doable. When changing water do rinse your filter media in removed tanks water (tap will kill good bacteria) and do not replace all media at the same time. I do not use carbon (too aggressive removing stuff from water) unless removing medicine in my fish tanks; but that is up to you. Do rinse it well because it's powder is an irritant.

Good luck!

I ran my tank setup with a fluval 206 for about two weeks prior to adding him to the tank for the reasons you mentioned above. I have been doing daily water changes removing about 2.5 gallons of water and replacing it with treated clean water. Except for the substrate the water seems very clean.

When I was using a water dish and it was dirty. I noticed my African Bullfrog would avoid it and choose to bury himself. If there is a problem with the water in the tank are there any telltale signs? Will Diesel avoid the water if its not good for him?
Thanks again Carlos!