Pacman frog pulling some WEIRD STUFF.

[Sublime]

Yes; I agree with the conditions your pacman is housed in has led to stress, therefore not eating.

However; I don't agree with you (Ivory) saying that a mouse is NOT right in this situation. It's very applicable in this situation - it's not impossible for pacman's to digest a mouse, especially prior to it not eating for awhile. I've seen a few experienced pacman owners force feed mice to ones that don't feed as readily or are wild caught after a few weeks. Everything has worked out fine.

[Camden]

Hi all. I successfully force fed for the first time. But I got him at a rather large size so hes maybe a little smaller if not the size of a baseball.
I force-fed him a mouse and he is looking back to normal now. I think the reason of his not eating was because he is cold, I had a small heating pad on the side but it did nothing.
Luckily, I ordered pet millipedes (NOT FOOD!) Online last week, and I also ordered some heating pads for them. They are a little bigger, so I used one of those on the side of my frogs tank. But for some reason he is chirping, not moving away from the heating pad, but he is making little "cheep" sounds?
Next time I force feed should I feed him a worm or another mouse? (They are dead/frozen/thawed fuzzies.)

[Camden]

Ivory. Yes I am using de-chlorinated fresh spring water. He was looking rather skinny. And it was the first day besides when I first got him that he had done this. I clean the substrate probably once every two weeks, and I mist it once a day. twice if needed.

[IvoryReptiles]

It could all be due to stress then. The climbing glass bit is a dead give away.

Mark, I have found that if & when we do need to force feed, we use an easily digestible item so that it goes through the frog's system fairly quickly and we can offer food soon after again......this has worked really well for us, it seems to me that if given a rodent when force fed, it takes quite a while to digest and then we have to force feed again.

We also have a Vet who specializes in reptiles & amphibians who agreed with our practices. Force feeding is something that experienced keepers practice but is often discouraged in first time keepers. At the very least, take the frog to an experienced vet to assist in the force feeding to help teach technique & tips......to help teach the proper way to perform the procedure. Just giving asked for advice & info.

[Sublime]

It could all be due to stress then. The climbing glass bit is a dead give away.

Mark, I have found that if & when we do need to force feed, we use an easily digestible item so that it goes through the frog's system fairly quickly and we can offer food soon after again......this has worked really well for us, it seems to me that if given a rodent when force fed, it takes quite a while to digest and then we have to force feed again.

We also have a Vet who specializes in reptiles & amphibians who agreed with our practices. Force feeding is something that experienced keepers practice but is often discouraged in first time keepers. At the very least, take the frog to an experienced vet to assist in the force feeding to help teach technique & tips......to help teach the proper way to perform the procedure. Just giving asked for advice & info.

Alright, I understand and respect your given advice. I just wanted to ask you a few questions though to clear some unclear information. How many earthworms would you have to feed to force feed to your frog to get them (per say) healthy and or back up to weight? In your experience, have you found that after the first force feed of earthworms that they eat - they tend to get their strength and appetite back? It just seems to me that, it would be more logical to give them more of a fulfilling meal that is nutritionally rich and contains some fat percentage. Even though as we are all aware, vertebrates are hard on frogs organs (specifically the kidney & liver) to an extent.

Also, how come you guys would have to force feed again after feeding it a mouse? George had a great testimonial; I don't know if you saw it, but his pacman was on his death bed (Skinny, weak) and he force fed it an injected mouse with the outcome of it saving his frogs life and bringing him back to health.

Take care,

Mark

PS: I'm trying to be constructive and not destructive, something John gave me advice on.

[GrifTheGreat]

Alright, I understand and respect your given advice. I just wanted to ask you a few questions though to clear some unclear information. How many earthworms would you have to feed to force feed to your frog to get them (per say) healthy and or back up to weight? In your experience, have you found that after the first force feed of earthworms that they eat - they tend to get their strength and appetite back? It just seems to me that, it would be more logical to give them more of a fulfilling meal that is nutritionally rich and contains some fat percentage. Even though as we are all aware, vertebrates are hard on frogs organs (specifically the kidney & liver) to an extent.

Also, how come you guys would have to force feed again after feeding it a mouse? George had a great testimonial; I don't know if you saw it, but his pacman was on his death bed (Skinny, weak) and he force fed it an injected mouse with the outcome of it saving his frogs life and bringing him back to health.

Take care,

Mark

PS: I'm trying to be constructive and not destructive, something John gave me advice on.

You better or he'll get his nanny hat on and come after you Lol!

Like I posted though. That was one frog. I had to force feed Grif 2 a week for 4 weeks and then she started eating on her own with a Hornworm which also is an easily digeted food not like mice. That should answer that question if she doesn't. Remember like their personalities their bodies are different as well. I fed her easily digested and already liked foods for a month before that to condition her digestive system. Think about that 2 per week for 4 weeks. With vitamins and calcium. Still took 2 months for her to recover. And she was also on her death bed.

I just don't think its good for an unexperienced frog owner to try this method of food item first. My opinion that's all.

[Sublime]

Alright, thanks for the information. That pretty much cleared it all up for me.

And no, I don't want John to get his nanny hat on next time because I'm sure it will be a ban and not a warning. Lol.

[GrifTheGreat]

Hi all. I successfully force fed for the first time. But I got him at a rather large size so hes maybe a little smaller if not the size of a baseball.
I force-fed him a mouse and he is looking back to normal now. I think the reason of his not eating was because he is cold, I had a small heating pad on the side but it did nothing.
Luckily, I ordered pet millipedes (NOT FOOD!) Online last week, and I also ordered some heating pads for them. They are a little bigger, so I used one of those on the side of my frogs tank. But for some reason he is chirping, not moving away from the heating pad, but he is making little "cheep" sounds?
Next time I force feed should I feed him a worm or another mouse? (They are dead/frozen/thawed fuzzies.)

For one Ivory breeds these frogs and know a lot about them. I'm not going to argue the pinky issue. I will say this and hope that it is very well understood. If the frog hasn't eaten in 3 weeks then not only is the frog weak, but its digestive system may not work at full strength and therefore since it is difficult for frogs to digest mammalian tissue then it would be ill advised to feed a pinky to the frog as it could do more harm than good. Also just because it worked for one frog doesn't mean that it is a scientifically proven fact that it will work for another. I'm not bashing anyone here. I'm saying it is best to start with something that will provide more energy than it will take to digest that food item. Best to start with foods that they already like or more easily digested. A pinky can take a week or more to digest possibly longer if the frog is weak. You need a temp of 80 to 85 during the day and 75 to 78 at night. Humidity must be 60 to 80% preferably 70 to 80% as its more ideal. If you need more heat you can buy a heat lamp. Best to use with these frogs is one with a dimmer switch so you can control the amount of heat and light coming from the bulb. Do you have 3 sides of the terrarium covered wit some sort of background? Haveing 3 side covered makes the frog feel more secure and less stressed.

Next forc feed I suggest you feed him/her a night crawler. It will help pass the pinky later. Keep us posted.

[Eel Noob]

So I figure it was up for the three weeks and not asleep? Because these frogs can sleep, and I do mean sleep lol.

I do agree though, it does sound like conditions are not to it's liking that's why it's trying to escape.