Sick Red Eyed Tree Frog?

[kimmy]

Not sure about the dark coloration, but you are overfeeding him. Growing RETFs only eat 2-3 crickets a night. Adults 2-3 crickets 2-3 times a week. He may have trouble digesting that much food. What's your temp and humidity?

I have ordered a temp and humidity gauge for the tank and it hasn't arrived yet .. I try not to spray the tank too much because I don't want it too damp ...
I have a calcium supplement that I put on the crickets every second feed .. It's called Nutrobal

[Badger]

It sounds like it could be dropsy, but I'm no vet.

[ViperJr]

Not sure about the dark coloration, but you are overfeeding him. Growing RETFs only eat 2-3 crickets a night. Adults 2-3 crickets 2-3 times a week. He may have trouble digesting that much food. What's your temp and humidity?

Well, generally it's hard to actually overfeed red eyes, since they regulate themselves in their food intake. They very rarely get obese.

I have ordered a temp and humidity gauge for the tank and it hasn't arrived yet .. I try not to spray the tank too much because I don't want it too damp ...

It's not really want you want, but what the frog wants. Be sure to keep it moist, since the are from the rain forest of central America. Good thing you ordered the hygrometer, it'll make it easy to adjust accordingly.

I have a calcium supplement that I put on the crickets every second feed .. It's called Nutrobal

I'm not familiar with this supplement, but it seems like it contains both calcium and D3 (according to some good ol' googling), which is the two important ingredients. However, it seem to be made for tortoises, so I don't know if it contains anything unhealthy for the frogs, as I'm not so good at these kind of things. Someone else will have to confirm or deny that.

EDIT: You also really want more hiding space for the frog. Stress is a real health-killer when it comes to frogs, and red eyes are not the most stress-tolerant species. They basically want to feel safe, and they do that when they are amongst trees/leaves/etc. Remember that they also travel by climbing from branch to branch (or leave to leave, you get the point), so if you want it to be able to "walk around", you need more climbing space.

[kimmy]

[/QUOTE] I'm not familiar with this supplement, but it seems like it contains both calcium and D3 (according to some good ol' googling), which is the two important ingredients. However, it seem to be made for tortoises, so I don't know if it contains anything unhealthy for the frogs, as I'm not so good at these kind of things. Someone else will have to confirm or deny that.
Thanks , do you know if there is any supplement specifically for the red eyed tree frogs?

EDIT: You also really want more hiding space for the frog. Stress is a real health-killer when it comes to frogs, and red eyes are not the most stress-tolerant species. They basically want to feel safe, and they do that when they are amongst trees/leaves/etc. Remember that they also travel by climbing from branch to branch (or leave to leave, you get the point), so if you want it to be able to "walk around", you need more climbing space.[/QUOTE]

I'm getting more leaves and another vine over the weekend

[ViperJr]

Thanks , do you know if there is any supplement specifically for the red eyed tree frogs?

I don't know if there's anything made especially for tree frogs, but Zoo med have a good calcium/D3 supplement. Repashy also makes a good calcium/d3, which is called Repashy SuperCal (I think...). However, I'm not saying that Nutrobal is bad. I'm just saying that it might be less than optimal since it's designed for tortoises, which are omnivores.

I'm getting more leaves and another vine over the weekend

Good! It can't be stressed enough how important it is to have a proper setup. When keeping red eyes, I would say that 90% (of course, it's just a number that really doesn't mean anything, since I can't actually prove anything scientifically) of the frogs well-being is having a good terrarium. If you want some inspiration, have a look at some of our members tanks. I would recommend Bshmerlie (Cheri) or DonLisk, for example.

[kimmy]

I don't know if there's anything made especially for tree frogs, but Zoo med have a good calcium/D3 supplement. Repashy also makes a good calcium/d3, which is called Repashy SuperCal (I think...). However, I'm not saying that Nutrobal is bad. I'm just saying that it might be less than optimal since it's designed for tortoises, which are omnivores.
Thanks , I'll check those out, I want the best for my little guy


Good! It can't be stressed enough how important it is to have a proper setup. When keeping red eyes, I would say that 90% (of course, it's just a number that really doesn't mean anything, since I can't actually prove anything scientifically) of the frogs well-being is having a good terrarium. If you want some inspiration, have a look at some of our members tanks. I would recommend Bshmerlie (Cheri) or DonLisk, for example.

I was told to wait at least a month before putting in too much and he's been out of the shop over a month now so do you think he's still too young to use orchid bark, cocoa soil and sphagnum moss as a substrate?

[Badger]

All mixed together or layers or seperate? Sphagnum is generally bad for froggies because it can cause impaction, as well as orchid bark. Mixed together or layers I think would work fine though. Sphagnum and coco fiber are great humidity retainers

[kimmy]

All mixed together or layers or seperate? Sphagnum is generally bad for froggies because it can cause impaction, as well as orchid bark. Mixed together or layers I think would work fine though. Sphagnum and coco fiber are great humidity retainers

I'll probably go with layers and give the frog places to his and more places to climb Thanks

[flybyferns]

Kimmy,

What is your frog's name?

The photos that are posted at the start of this thread (at the bottom) look very dry to me. Don't let that paper dry out!
Like Heather says, they like to soak down here. When using paper they flatten their bellies on the bottom to soak up water and get re-hydrated.
I would get a real thick layer of paper( towels )in the bottom and dampen it really well ( sopping wet !) with spring water ( bottled water).
Misting is okay as well- 2-3 times a day. Don't spray directly on your frog. Spray with distilled water ( which will not stain the glass of the enclosure)
I would not worry about putting too many crickets in the enclosure at night if there is paper on the bottom.
Extra crickets are better for now while he is little and / or stressed. Make dinner an "easy catch"
Fee him well. The white bottom makes it easy for you to monitor the food intake for now-and to see what has been eaten by the next morning.
Remove the uneaten crickets and replace with more each night. If he is little- he needs to eat every night.
Keep a very shallow saucer in the enclosure filled w/ bottled water (1/2 inch or less) ( change it daily )

Don't touch your frog unless it is absolutely necessary. ( if needed wash and rinse your hands well)
You might cover three sides of the enclosure - the frog would feel safer.
Keep the frog in complete darkeness at night.
Develop a day/night cycle for him.

Don't add another red eyed tree frog into the enclosure for at least 6 weeks- or longer.

temps
daytime --78 - 82 F
night time --71-75 F
humidity 70-80 %

Let us Know !!