mine seem to be the korean variety. thanks for the info on the other types.
mine seem to be the korean variety. thanks for the info on the other types.
You're welcome. It looks from the picture that you have one Korean and one Russian. Not to worry, they are both Bombina orientalis.
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Like Kurt said, the Russian and Korean variations are the same species and can therefore breed. I personally am not a fan of those monikers because I suspect that you can probably find the two variations together throughout their range, although I really don't know. I haven't seen other species in the hobby for many years although I know that they are present in the hobby in Europe. When I had them they were always in amplexus although I never got any eggs, I suspect they were all males. I do know people know people who have bred them and I don't think its that difficult. The trick, it appears, is getting males and females. Hahaha
Alex
I have read that breading is a lot breeding temperate Colubrids. You have to over winter them. I know I have at least 3 males. I am hoping the remaining two are female. I would over winter them, but winter is almost over (thank God!) Will have to wait till next year. By then I am hoping to acquire some more "females".
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I don't think Bombinids have to be cooled too much. As for cooling. I personally like the idea of cooling during the summer, at least or caudates. That way its easier to keep them cool during the winter by just not providing too much supplemental heat and during the hottest parts of summer they will be in hibernation in a fridge or the like and cooling is much easier that way. I'm not sure it that ramble made sense, but thats my opinion on it.
Alex
I know that somewhere at home I have an article on breeding Bombinids. I won't be able to post it until after I get back from Costa Rica, but i'll try to remember to then.
I thought the russian toads had a different pattern on their bellys. my korean relatives, though not frog experts, have written back that both green and brown toads live there. though brown is not as common as the green. are their any other differences between the korean and russian toads besides color? thanks for the info by the way.
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From what I understand there is an actual "Russian" form, an all brown "subspecies" with golden orange bellies that is found in a particular location in Russia. I strongly doubt however that this is what is sold in the U.S., rather, they are just different morphs from the same source.
Alex
nice fire belly never seen one like that
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Quick question on this species:
I have managed to get a small colony of these for very, very cheap. I studied up on the care and breeding of them quite a bit.
My questions pertain to feeding.
Most every site and book I have read so far on them implies that dusting crickets is mandatory.
Is this true or is this a case of necessity due to a limited variety diet?
If dusting is necessary, what supplement do you experienced keepers recommend?
I was using a calcium/vitamim D3 but it lacked vitamin A, so I got a supplement that has all three. I don't remember what the brand name is. Anyway, the fire-bellies did fine on the previous sumplement, just other frogs weren't, like my darts. I do dust everytime I feed. Some might this too much, but they way I see it most of the crickets will not be eaten right away and with Bombina orientalis being a semi-aquatic species, a lot of the dust will wash off.
I've had my FBTs for about 1.5 years now, and I've never dusted my crix. I keep them (the crickets) in a cricket keeper cage and feed them baby carrots, Cricket Quencher, and T-Rex "Calcium Plus" GutLoad pellets. The gutload pellets have all the vitamins you find in dusting, without the mess of actually dusting. Also it's like $9.00USD for a bottle and one bottle lasts me over a year.
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Excellent. I have been researching different products for about 10 hours now. I just got more and more frustrated the more I read. It is good to see that gutloading is working well for you. We will give it a try here.
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After succesful treatment for parasites, and a few months of feeding the heck out of these little guys (and gals) I have decided to try my hand at breeding them.
I am having trouble finding a set range of temperatures for brumation.
Some sites and books say 50F, others as low as 40F! Ido not want to kill them by accident. What should I set my converted wine cooler to?
Watching FrogTV because it is better when someone else has to maintain the enclosure!
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