wesly2009
(wesly2009)

So i have built a terrarium for some red eye tree frogs that I will be getting soon. currently i have just gravel as a drainage layer but was wondering if I could use horticultural charcoal instead. I know everyone is using the hydroton but I don't like the look of it in the terrarium and I cant seem to find it locally. everywhere i go has the charcoal and was just wondering if this would be a suitable substitute. any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
wes

  

John Clare
(John)

The problem with charcoal is that, like all (?) carbon, it absorbs toxins slowly but surely, but eventually becomes saturated and will start to leach them out. However in and of itself it is not a problem - feel free to use it.

  

wesly2009
(wesly2009)

so how long would it be before i would have to replace it?

  

wesly2009
(wesly2009)

here is what it looks like right now. I may decide to use the charcoal in replacement of the gravel in the bottom. im realy happy with it now. I just got done redoing everything.

Attached Thumbnails

       

  

Johnny O. Farnen
(SludgeMunkey)

Use of activated carbon (often called charcoal in the hobby) is a crossover from orchid enthusiasts. Its viability in vivaria containing live animals is of little or no value. While it does absorb "toxins", think about that for a moment. If proper substrate is installed, where are the "toxins" coming from? Use of it as a drainage layer can result in serious issues over time, as it provides a very nice, clean surface to harbor unbeneficial bacteria. The biggest issue is that while it does provide a place for excess moisture to drain to, many hobbyists forget to install a way to remove that excess water, resulting in anearobic decay. This defeats the purpose of having a drainage layer, as it still creates a stagnant layer of liquid in the matrix.

There are quite a few better, and much more effective methods in providing a drainage layer.

For off the shelf solutions, the use of laterite, clay balls, lava rock, and similar products is very effective, however the cost of these items can be obscenely prohibitive, since they still require changing on average annually.

A moderate cost solution is to get a sheet of the "egg crate" plastic used as diffusers for fluorescent lighting. A sheet of this, cut to fit the bottom of the enclosure, then covered with one layer of fine mesh like screening or plastic needle point sheeting provides anywhere from 3/8ths to 7/8ths of an inch of drainage space very effectively. It is also reusable and easy to clean when the time comes to do a substrate change. by using small sections of large diameter PVC pipe, you can set the "water gap" at any depth you would like, and still permit free flow of liquids to the siphon tube.

The lowest cost method is to utilize under gravel filters designed for aquarium use. these have all the advantages of the egg crate method, with the added bonus of the riser tube(s). (more on the tubes to follow.


Once you have a drainage base set up, you need to be able to remove excess water. This can be done by installing a plug or valve in the bottom of the enclosure, however this can be very hard to do with glass vivaria.

My personal favorite solution to drainage is 3/8" Schedule 40 PVC pipe. A section of this cut to be just taller than the total depth of the substrate is siliconed in a corner with about 1/4 inch of clearance from the bottom. the PVC can be painted or carved to be hidden, or can hide in plants or wood. This allows the insertion of a siphon tube into the drainage layer to easily remove excess fluids. A bit of work with some sandpaper or a file on the top end of this tube will lower the outside diameter enough that a standard PVC pipe cap can be installed to prevent animals and food invertebrates from getting into the tube when it is not in use. When used with the egg crate method, this has proven to be the most effective solution over the last decade for me.


As for how often to change the substrate, this varies by set up, moisture, and animals kept. Is dead sphagnum moss is used in the substrate mix, its decay and antibacterial properties quickly result in failure of the nitrogen cycle and a sever drop in soil pH. This is a stinky, unhealthy condition in wet vivaria. Especially with terrestrial amphibians, there is a number of definitive links to renal failure (bloat) due to substrate pH lower that 6.5 in amphibians. Serious skin infections and even fungus can also result.

I generally suggest that terrestrial substrates in planted, wet condition vivaria be completely replaced annually. I admit though that proper use of a good substrate mix can extended this time as much as double. My advice here is use your nose. A well planned out, properly set up vivarium always smells of fresh earth just after a rain storm. If it smells foul or gassy, it needs to be changed.


Whwew! after that ramble I would just like to add I like your set up very, very much! Nothing makes me happier than seeing other do it your selfers putting together fabulous vivaria!

  

wesly2009
(wesly2009)

wow thats alot of helpful info and i greatly appreciate your input on the subject.