2 Months ago I got an 8 and 4 month old WTFs. I was told the younger one was older over the phone but when I got him by package he was much younger.
Because of this I kept them in separate cages. Now they are 10 and 8 months old and getting similar in size (tho the 10 month old is definately fatter) I'm wondering if I can put them together. I'm guessing the younger one is male because it started croaking a few weeks ago, and the older one is female as it hasn't ever croaked.
They would be housed (the larger one is currently here) in a 18x18x24 Exo terra.
Are there any signs I should look for if the larger one is attacking / bullying / or just stressing out the smaller one?
Also I'm wondering how I should do feeding.
Currently I feed:
Monday - Calcium /w D3 dusted Crickets
Wednesday - nondusted Superworms OR Mealworms
Friday - Multivitamin dusted Crickets (sometimes Waxworms)
For feeding them crickets I put them in a different small cage for feeding to ensure they eat them.
But for super/meal/wax worms I put them into a dish that they help themselves to.
My problem is once I have them in the same cage, how do I ensure they are both eating the worms I give them? Should I get some forceps and manually feed them?
Thanks in advance!
Hello! I have 2 Golden Tree Frogs in the same tank, I bought them together. I have 1 male and 1 female, but the female is greedy! She has now given up chasing the food and just goes into the tub and eats them as soon as they are in. Our boy (Groot) doesn't seem to get a look in with locusts, but wax worms are his favourite and she isn't keen so let's him eat as much as he wants. I've only seen her hit him once because he was climbing on her and she got annoyed and that in 6mths of being together.
Did you get them from the same place? They might be okay together. We had a White Lipped Tree Frog before and we were told from the pet shop we could easily introduce another one into the tank whenever we wanted to.
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If the frogs are similar in size it should be fine but if ones head is more than 1/4 larger, you might end up with just one tree frog. Monitor their weight and make sure one isn't getting skinny. If this happens, you can tong feed the skinny one it's food until it puts on size. I wouldn't remove the frogs for feeding, just feed at night when they are active and the crickets should be taken fast enough.
Vitamins should be given at the same time as calcium as they work together and insects should always be dusted or gutloaded every time they are fed out because commercial insects are high in phosphorus and poor in calcium. However, the problem is many supplements can be high in the fat soluables such as A & D and can cause problems when used regularly. I use Repashy calcium plus for this reason as it has been designed for daily use and there are options of low, medium and high in regards to vitamins.
I would swap out the superworms for nightcrawlers and roaches every few feedings because these are much more healthier and superworms are fatty. Tong feed the roaches because they will burrow.
Yes from Reptile Underground, but they probably from different breeders. The larger one is a blue eyed morph, the smaller is normal. I also bought them 2 weeks apart from one another.
Is it because its stressful for them? I did it this way cause they usually only ate a few crickets, which left uneatten crickets bothering them during the day.
Vitamins and calcium at the same time? So then just once a week? My crickets are already gut-loaded. The super/meal/waxworms however are straight from the package.
It can be. Just cut down the amount of crickets and also make sure they're warm enough for feeding. If there is excess crickets left over, remove them.
Yeah, from what I've read, a recent theory is that it is better to provide regular vitamins in small amounts than higher amounts at once and less frequently. It makes sense. Wild frogs would always be getting vitamins from food.
You should dust every time and only dust or gut load. If you dust and gut load you're doubling up calcium and vitamins, and depending on what products are used, this could lead to an overdose. However, I suppose if you dust one batch and gut load the next this wouldn't be too bad.
I prefer dusting and feed my insects mainly fruit, veg and small amounts of cricket maintance diets. This is adding some nutritional value, but not necessarily gutloading, which an alternative way to dusting of increasing the calcium and vitamins in insects
So maybe I should dust the super/meal/wax worms since I don't gut load those.
And just feed them the crickets undusted as they are gut-loaded.
Depends, if the gut load is good enough to actually achieve the proper Ca:P ratio and vitamin load after 48 hours of feeding. You might be able to find a study on the internet with results. A problem is that the crickets don't deal with the amount of calcium that's in these diets and they will die after, so you'll need to keep insects that you're not feeding out in another tank and feed them fruit and vegetables as well. Also, there's no idea to tell what insects have actually ate it. Another limitation is that you're only feeding the insects the gut load. If you were to dust you can also feed the insects healthy foods that have natural non-toxic vitamins and then dust with calcium and multivitimins
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